2nd Gen Fluid Change Mega Thread

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OverlandExpy

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Hey guys, looked through these forums and didn't see anything similar to this, so thought I'd start it out. I'm going through and changing all the fluids in my new-to-me 04 EB, and was able to find a copy of the shop manual, so as I go along and do all of these fluid flushes for the first time, I'll do my best to post step by step guides here.

If anyone wants feel free to add your own write ups here!
 
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OverlandExpy

OverlandExpy

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Power-Steering-Flush5.jpg

Only question I have about this is can it be done without the vacuum? Could I just leave the cap off, run the engine, and turn the wheel lock-to-lock?
 

Dix_

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Note for 2005-06 Navi owners..... Skip changing the tranny fluid.

The German ZF6HP automatic is sealed & requires no maintenance unless it's been leaking.

From my earlier post..... https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/2nd-gen-navigator-vs-expedition.45934/post-438829

5. Where's the Dipstick? - Specifically on the 05-06 Navi with the German 6-speed transmission, don't try to find a dipstick. There ain't one. The ZF 6HP26 requires NO maintenance. Unless it's been leaking, don't worry about it. Yes, seriously. Ignore what you've heard. It's perfectly fine for 200K+ miles with absolutely ZERO maintenance. It's been around since 2001, & there are thousands of BMWs with over 200K on 'em that have never had this transmission apart. It's probably one of the most bullet-proof automatics ever built. It's no small wonder that Ford decided to make their own version of it. It was a wise move.

Seriously, if it hasn't been leaking, & it's working just fine, leave it alone. You know, the old, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" thing.

Not to pick on Mr.Wizard more but, just because the fluid is brown doesn't mean it's bad and/or "worn-out". (go find the episode of "Hoovie's Garage" on YouTube where he gets his Maserati serviced at Mr.Wizard's) If you doubt me on this go down to your local BMW dealer & ask for a bottle of "ZF Lifeguard 6" transmission fluid. After you've gone to the bank for enough money to purchase that bottle of liquid diamonds, pour some out & tell me what color it is. Go ahead.... I'll wait....

By the way.... Maserati's issues with the ZF 6HP where electronic, & self-inflicted wounds, not the fault of the transmission. They thought they could program it better that the cats that designed it.... which obviously didn't work out too well. If they really wanted to do a Manual Mode right they should have asked for help from Aston Martin.

Should you need to replenish the fluid in a ZF 6HP, just swallow hard, put on your big-boy pants, go rob a bank, & buy the right stuff. DO NOT do a Google search for "ZF6 fluid" & think you can just dump Mercon-V in it. That's acceptable for the MANUAL ZF S6. Not the automatic. (yes, Mr.Wizard put the wrong fluid in Hoovie's Quattroporte)

The confusion comes from calling any ZF 6-speed transmission a "ZF6". Which, if you aren't aware there's a difference, might lead you to believe its just another way of referring to the ZF 6HP. Someone talking about a "ZF6" could mean the ZF S6 or the ZF 6HP, which are two different transmissions. & only one of 'em is an automatic. Particularly confusing in our case because Ford put the ZF S6 in a lot of 3/4 ton & up F-series trucks.

Ford used to sell re-bottled ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid for the 05-06 Navi, but no-one around here still stocks it. You can find it on eBay for around $20/liter. However, if you can't wait, your local BMW dealer will be more than happy to sell you as much "ZF Lifeguard 6" as you want. You can try to get away with something cheaper. Some Ford shops will tell you you can use what Ford puts in their version of it, but, that's your gamble. All the ZF 6HPs I've known that made it 200K or better ran the right stuff in 'em.

Now, if you happen across a screaming deal on a 2nd Gen Navi that's been sitting a while (like 3 years), & you experience a slight shudder on light acceleration, that's the converter clutches. The fix is as easy as dumping 4oz of the "friction modifier" Ford sells for the limited-slip rear ends in it & drive it for 1000 miles or so. If it hasn't completely gone away yet dump in another 4oz & it will eventually just go away. Seems the converter clutches don't like just sitting around for years doing nothing. Just remember, you need to have the engine running when you pull the fill plug on the side of the transmission. Unless of course, you enjoy wearing essence-du-transmission as a cologne & paying for some more of the liquid-gold to replace it.
 
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OverlandExpy

OverlandExpy

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Just finished up doing a power steering fluid flush, and did it a bit differently than how the shop manual above says to do it. Fordtechmakuloco on youtube recommends removing the crankshaft position sensor instead, which is located on the underside of the engine towards the front:
20210708-111523.jpg

Then disconnect the return hose on the right side of the reservoir if looking at it front the right side of the truck:
20210708-111925.jpg

I just used some clear vinyl tubing and some adapters, and a bolt to make a cap for the reservoir fill hole.
20210708-113415.jpg

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Then just put the other end in bucket, crank for 5-10 seconds at a time so you don't damage the starter,and make sure to keep refilling with mercon V. Turn the wheel lock to lock while cranking if you can to really flush it out. I ended up using two quarts to flush and refill it.
20210708-121600.jpg
 

Al Steel

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Great thread idea! Should be stickied. My SOP for any new-to-me used vehicle is to change ALL of the fluids (diff included) ASAP. Your rig looks great with just the tire change btw.

Just finished the Coolant flush on mine. Old coolant looked deceptively good, but the bottle was so covered with rusty sediment residue that I couldn't read the level. Pointed to a neglected cooling system. Drained, the coolant coming out looked ok but a little brownish at the beginning, again pointing to a neglected cooling system and a recent coolant change. Flushed with the hose, pulled the bottle and rinsed it out the best I could with high pressure hose and CLR. Really cleaned it up good, chunks of calcium deposits were in the bottom of the tank :oops:. Refilled with distilled and Prestone flush. Drove around for about 30mins, drained. Clear went in, brown water came out. :favorites68: I was going to do a second flush round but not enough time. Refilled with Prestone All-Vehicle and distilled to 50/50. Looks MUCH better now and at least I can read the level on the bottle. I KNOW I ran tap water in it, but I drained it, topped with distilled and the flush, then drained it again. Pretty confident it's either all out, or so little remained that it wouldn't create a problem.

Just goes to show that just because the fluid that is in there looks good, doesn't mean that everything IS good. The dirty bottle is a clue that the PO wasn't exactly on top of good maintenance practices and makes me wonder if the radiator, core, pump, etc might hold a few surprises later.

NOTE: Both drains only got me about 4 gals out of a 5.6 gallon (at least on paper) system, even though I propped up the passenger side on a ramp to get any trapped fluid. I'm assuming to get it all I would have to take out the block drain plug, wasn't quite up to that task so I will inspect and flush again if necessary over the next few months.
 

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NOTE: Both drains only got me about 4 gals out of a 5.6 gallon (at least on paper) system, even though I propped up the passenger side on a ramp to get any trapped fluid. I'm assuming to get it all I would have to take out the block drain plug, wasn't quite up to that task so I will inspect and flush again if necessary over the next few months.
Don't forget... if you have rear seat heating, that's not coming out with a simple draining either.
 

Al Steel

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Don't forget... if you have rear seat heating, that's not coming out with a simple draining either.
So how do you drain all of the fluid out? Conventional method is drain, fill with H20 & chem flush, run, drain, fill with H20, drain, run, drain, fill with H20, run. Lastly drain and measure what comes out. Since this will now hopefully be mostly clear H20, replace that with concentrate coolant. Run, check levels. Refill with concentrate if needed, done.

But if I want to drain all the fluid in one shot? Anyone have a procedure or tips especially for one with rear heat?
Thanks!
 
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OverlandExpy

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Coolant change is the last thing on the list for me, I'll be posting a more in detail write up with pics soon. In the meantime, I thought I'd make a comment on the oil for our trucks. Ford went with the 5w-20 spec due to what many people in the know believing that Ford was trying to bump up their efficiency with the lighter weight oil. There has been a lot of debate about it on this forum and various other Ford forums, but I'm definitely in the 5w-30 camp (full synthetic, always!). Especially for higher mileage engines. Over time the 5w-30 will shear down to around 5w-20 anyway, and as long as y'all aren't flooring it after cold starting it, 5w-30 should be the oil we use in the 5.4L & 4.6L 2nd gen engines for most applications. My truck has been running 5w-30 for the past 100,000 miles and still runs smooth as silk, if anyone wants some anecdotal evidence. Would love to hear others opinions on this, anyone have any compelling reasons to go with the owners manual and run 5w-20?
 
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OverlandExpy

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@Al Steel
Alright apologies for the delay, coolant change has been done for a month but I have had almost no free time lately so I'm just getting around to posting. This should take you about 45 min - 1.5 hours, and will probably make a bit of a mess, so try to do this in a place where you can clean up any spilled fluid without it running off into a storm drain. This stuff ain't great for the environment lol.

To do this you will need 2-3 gallons of the Ford Gold antifreeze/coolant (VC-7-B), a quart of Motorcraft VC-1 coolant flush fluid, the same surgical tubing as before, a bucket or two, containers for disposal, ready access to a hose, and some distilled water (optional, but only a few dollars worth is needed).
20210715-114657.jpg

Once you have everything ready, the first thing I did was a pre-flush. Remove the cap to the coolant reservoir, and locate the drain plug to the radiator. It will be on the bottom corner of the radiator on the passenger side, and the only way to access it is from underneath. There should be a nozzle that will perfectly fit the same diameter tubing I used in the power steering flush above. From the underside it should look like this:
20210715-114718.jpg
That little white hex shape is the release. Attach the tubing then turn gently, if you apply a lot of force you can round off the "bolt" as it is made out of plastic. During the pre-flush it helps if the engine is cool. If you are doing this with a warm engine be very careful as it will be very hot.
20210715-114758.jpg

Now open the drain plug and let all of the coolant drain. It should take about 5-10 min. While it is draining flush it out with a hose spraying into the coolant reservoir, making sure no large amounts of air get into the coolant system. If you use the jet setting on your hose you can knock loose any of the built up gunk in the reservoir. Keep flushing until the fluid coming out of the hose runs clear. Then stop filling with the hose, drain the reservoir almost to the bottom, and close the drain plug. Keep the tubing attached. Add your VC-1 fluid to the reservoir, and fill the rest of the way with water.

Now we need to agitate the cleaning solution and make sure it does its job. Double check that the drain plug is closed, the water/flush mixture is filled between the min/max operating levels, and that the reservoir cap is on. Hop in the cab and start the engine to bring the coolant up to temp. To make sure the coolant will flush through the entire system, make sure your heater is on full blast in both the front and rear climate zones. After the engine has come to temp, make sure HOT air is blowing out of all of your vents. If any are blowing cool air there may be a blockage or leak in your coolant system, or one of the actuators that opens/closes the valves may be bad, or there could be air in your coolant system. Run the engine for 10-15 min, revving it frequently to really get the coolant moving. I kept it around 2k RPM and would rev it to 3-4k every 15-20 seconds or so.

Now comes the slightly more tricky part, a friend would come in handy here but you can do it yourself as I did. Shut off the engine and let it cool for about 5 minutes, just enough that you can SLOWLY open the cap to the coolant reservoir without it blowing up in your face. Be very careful when doing this as it will be under pressure. Make sure your tubing is still attached to the drain plug, and open it up. Have a friend add water from the hose slowly, or figure out a way to keep the hose on and in one spot so no air gets in the system. Start up the engine again while constantly adding and draining water from the system. Do this for a few minutes with the engine idling to completely flush out the VC-1 fluid.

It helps if you premix your distilled water/coolant before flushing out the cleaning fluid so you aren't trying to mess about with fluids while monitoring the draining/adding of water.
20210715-145555.jpg
The system has a ~6 gallon capacity, so I used about 2.5 gallons of the concentrated coolant and 3 gallons of distilled water. The first gallon of coolant I added directly into the reservoir without premixing with the engine still running. Then keep adding a mix of 50/50 coolant/distilled water, and monitor the tubing and close the drain screw once you see the coolant you just added start to drain.

And that's it! Top off the reservoir, make sure the plug is screwed tight, but not too tight, and take it for a test drive with the heater in all zones on full blast. Make sure heat is coming from every vent. Once the test drive is done, let the engine cool and add or drain a bit of coolant if necessary to get it to the proper operating level.

As always feel free to PM me if you have any questions! Also, fordtechmakuloco has a solid video on this process on YouTube.
 
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