5w20 fully syn mobil 1. Oil Question

[Ron1978]

ive been running this oil 5 w20 fully syn with the mobil 1 syn oil filter, is this a good oil to run in a 2014 5.4l?
I live in Mississippi weather gets 100 degrees in summer and 20's in winter.
Any advice??

 

[Ron1978]

Bump

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Fordtechmakuloco recommends 5W30 and some here follow that recommendation. Others run 5W20. Some run synthetic, others conventional. Imho, either weight/type is fine and the real deciding factor on whether your engine will last is checking your oil often and changing it on time.

btw that oil has a double promo right now. You can get a coupon for $5 off at Walmart here and a rebate for up to $17 back here. Both offers are directly through Mobil.

 

[Black]

The main question is how often do you change your oil? Mobil1 is good synthetic oil I run it in my wife’s Highlander because it is the cheapest 0w20 and synthetic is a requirement. Not sure I have even seen a conventional 0w20.
As for the Expedition I change at 5k miles so fully synthetic is nothing more than throwing money away.
Motorcraft synthetic blend certainly will be holding up just fine at 5k under normal driving conditions.

 

[Ron1978]

I'll be doing 5k oil changes, why does some run 5w30?? Benifits ?

 

[Black]

Doing 5k changes you are wasting money with synthetic.
Ford switched to 5w20 in the early 2000s for gas mileage purposes they claim.
The Ecoboosts are back to 5w30.
Motorcraft 5w20 is cheap at Walmart in 5 quart jugs. If they call for 5w20 use that.

 

[TobyU]

I'll be doing 5k oil changes, why does some run 5w30?? Benifits ?

Most agree that the 5w-20 and even 5w-30 was for mileage not longevity. 5w-30s have improved since the early 90s when they were all going to them and full syn has always given more protection.
The ford 3v and even other ford engines have a good deal of issues with timing chain noise esp at start up and tensioner and cam phaser issues and a lot of them leak at a gasket on the tensioner that is oil pressurized to tighten the chain.
The 5w-30 is just a bit thicker and seals the leak better and keeps things working properly longer.
I would use 5w-30 in any of them in any normal climate.
I would even use 10w-30 in 2v and 3v in temps over 50.
I ran a 95 4.6 in a lincoln for 6+ years on mobil 1 15w-50!!! People freak and say it is terrible to do. Have a friend witha 94 or 95 4.6 with about 300K on it that has been pouring 15w-50 Rotella conventional diesel oil through it as it leaks out and blows though leaky valve stem seals. It has been -13F and it hasn't blown up yet.

 

[Eagle 71]

Question: How well does Rotella diesel oil work in our relatively newer Expeditions? Reason I ask, Shell’s Rotella motor oil was the cure-all in my ’66 T-Bird because of the higher zinc levels…does that benefit translate to the 3V Triton engine? Or, is the mileage on that same V8 Triton engine the deciding factor?
Bottom line, I still have 5-20 Valvoline running thru my Expy's veins...

 

[Black]

They now offer Rotella for gas trucks and suvs.
Not sure how long it has been out but the first time I saw it was last week when I went to get oil for the Highlander.
https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/gas-truck-synthetic-engine-oil.html
It is a $1 more per 5qt jug at Walmart than Mobil1
Rottela is pretty much king for diesels so I am thinking about swapping next change.

 

[Adieu]

They now offer Rotella for gas trucks and suvs.
Not sure how long it has been out but the first time I saw it was last week when I went to get oil for the Highlander.
https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/gas-truck-synthetic-engine-oil.html
It is a $1 more per 5qt jug at Walmart than Mobil1
Rottela is pretty much king for diesels so I am thinking about swapping next change.

Whole point of running Diesel Rotella is its NON-compliance with gasoline oil regulations....afaik

Imho stick to 5w40 Rotella T6 (Diesel)

 

[TobyU]

5w-40 should be wonderful for them.
Better viscosity but a full syn that will flow just as well and it is a very detergent oil.

 

[theoldwizard1]

On EcoBoost engines, Ford now recommends 5W30. For MS, where you rarely see below freezing, 10W30 would be acceptable.

Save money, use the Motorcraft synthetic blend, available at Walmart.

 

[smith627]

I live in Mississippi too and have been using conventional 5w20 Havoline oil and have had zero engine problems for 254,000 miles.
Still running on seven of the original spark plugs and coils.
5.4L 2v 4x4.
Knock on wood........original fuel pump, starter, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, and no A/C repairs. Replaced serpentine belt at 250,000 miles and the old one did not look bad.

 

[WesT]

I have been a user of Mobil 1 since it was released and I am here to say that I have ran it in high performance motors and the gamut down. I have personally torn down motors that used it diligently and I am here to say it is the best product on the market. As for the observation of weight, this is a optimized suggestion by the manufacturer. The motors are ideally built to handle this through their pumps and raceways...that being said...changing the weights and viscosity to further optimize based on environment is possible, but I would only consider this if I was experiencing cooling or lubrication issues. Regular recommended oil change intervals are again the optimized state, personally, I do oil changes based on miles and nothing else, I also consider driving conditions, 3500 mile changes in hard or towing conditions, and 5000 miles in normal operation...my $.02.

 

[rjdelp7]

YOUR vehicles calls ford 7qts(!), 5w20. Ford spec wcc-m2c945-a. Ford part# XO-5w20-qsp(syn-blend). Do not use conventional. Mobil 1 is a tier III synthetic. Its made from 'base' stock and not a true synthetic. Its been sold for years and has a good reputation. Ford TSB, issued on using 5w30 in a 5w20 engine and it is acceptable. It may impact fuel mileage(.1 mpg) Australian Fords all use 5w30(same engines). The 2014 has the 5.4l 3V, a motor with a history of problems, related to bad maintenance. Change it regularly and keep it full. I switched to the premium media oil filters. Harley Davidson SuperPremium 5 micron OEM oil filters are no longer paper. Napa platinum, Purolator Boss, Fram ultra synthetic and Mobil 1 are all great filters. Running the 'diesel Rotella oil' is probably not a good idea. Oils with high zinc phosphate, may damage the catalytic converters(if the engine burns oil). European/German formula oil(yes, there is such product)are all high zinc. BMW and Mercedes recommend it for wear protection. They rather replace a converter, than an engine.

 

[Machete]

Nope. No. Not gonna do this.

 

[lbv150]

I live in Mississippi too and have been using conventional 5w20 Havoline oil and have had zero engine problems for 254,000 miles.
Still running on seven of the original spark plugs and coils.
5.4L 2v 4x4.
Knock on wood........original fuel pump, starter, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, and no A/C repairs. Replaced serpentine belt at 250,000 miles and the old one did not look bad.

On my '04 5.4 2v 4x4 changed the plugs at 100k and belt, 2 coils just went at around 180,000. Alternator and wiper motor changed early on. Blinker relay and twice on the heater motor resistors. Front and rear blend door motors. Brakes and tires. Oil and filter every 3k. And other required maintenance fuel filters, K&N air filter, change tranny and PS oil.

 

[TobyU]

I have been a user of Mobil 1 since it was released and I am here to say that I have ran it in high performance motors and the gamut down. I have personally torn down motors that used it diligently and I am here to say it is the best product on the market. As for the observation of weight, this is a optimized suggestion by the manufacturer. The motors are ideally built to handle this through their pumps and raceways...that being said...changing the weights and viscosity to further optimize based on environment is possible, but I would only consider this if I was experiencing cooling or lubrication issues. Regular recommended oil change intervals are again the optimized state, personally, I do oil changes based on miles and nothing else, I also consider driving conditions, 3500 mile changes in hard or towing conditions, and 5000 miles in normal operation...my $.02.

I too have torn down engines on Mobil 1 and it is a GREAT OIL! I would not say best as there are others equal to it and some even superior at least in some aspects.
Nothing can be best in everything.
It is amazing how clean the inside of engine and valve covers/heads can be with regular mobil 1 changes.
I do give it towards the BEST category because you can get it at walmart in 5gal jugs cheaper than the other great oils.
NOTE: Hey Walmart and Mobil If you keep raising prices I WILL buy another brand.
5 qts of mobil 1 was under $20..maybe even 17.96 for a while. Then 19.96 or so for a good while. Then 21.96, then 23.96...now it is all 25.96 and UP. You are about at the threshold where I buy a cheaper brand. I already do in my less important vehicles.
SO KNOCK IT OFF!!! okay....

I was super impressed with some Amsoil series 2000 a few years ago. 29K miles on original clutch in ZX12R motorcycle with 176.8 rwhp on dyno. This was 20w-50 oil but that ie unbelievable on a performance bike and the clutch was still fine when I sold it.

I just cant justify the cost of Amsoil and some others when Mobil and Pennzoil Platinum etc are out there and more than great oil for lower cost.

 

[1955moose]

I knew there was something about you Toby I liked, besides old Lincoln's. Your a crazy biker like me and like high horse power crotch rockets. I've had my share with Yamaha VMax and a bunch of 120 plus Horsepower widow makers. It's funny how we like both the Lead sled slow mobiles and the ones that make you pucker when on the gas! Ain't life grand!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Ron1978]

Thank you all for your knowledge and opinions,
I'm going with premium synthetic oil filter from mobile 1 and 5w20 full synthetic silver cap,
5k oil

This vehicle has gotta last my family 5 more years,