AC compressor removal

[shadow460]

I have a 1998 Expedition and the AC compressor seal has blown out. There were two loud pops from the right side of the truck, kinda underneath, and it blew this musty smelling fluorescent green oily stuff all over the tie rod, stabilizer, and the compressor.

I know how to get the compressor loose from the engine and how to safely recover the refrigerant and unhook the lines. The problem is that there's this little bitty opening between the frame and the tie rod right below the compressor, and I can't see for the life of me how the compressor is going to fit through it. The Haynes book says to remove a shield from the fan in order to access the compressor, but I don't see where the mounting bolts are.

I don't want to get the A/C lines off and then realize I can't get the old compressor out, and I don't want to be forced into leaving the A/C system open for more than 15 minutes.

If it weren't for all the stuff in the way, this would be as easy for me as changing the alternator. Got any ideas? I certainly don't fancy paying $750 for a shop to do something so similar to what I do every single day at work.

 

[02expi]

I `think if u take the plastic inner fender out u can get the compressor out without any trouble, and as I recall the inner fender comes out pretty easily. if u take the shroud off the fan has to come off too and even then u can't get to the compressor bolts very well.

 

[shadow460]

Almost forgot: it's a 4.6 liter Romeo and the truck is a 4x4.

The bolts can be reached with a 10mm and a 3/8 universal joint. I can feel the "manifold" bolt by reaching through the inner fender, around the tire.
I just don't know how that compressor is going to fit around everything to actually remove it from the vehicle. Maybe if the shroud is all one piece, I can slip the condenser and the radiator forward and slide the shroud around them. This might allow the compressor to slide forward and down.
If I remove the tie rod and the idler arm, I'd have full access to lower the compressor out the bottom, but I don't have a ball joint puller for that. I might be able to slip it through just by turning the wheels to one side. That gives me 4 to 5 inches of room to drop through.

 

[Notmyidi]

When I did it on my dads 97 4.6 l I actually unbolted a portion of the drag link, its go two large bolts a idler arm of sorts and pulled it through there

sent from my mind via of telepathy

 

[shadow460]

When I did it on my dads 97 4.6 l I actually unbolted a portion of the drag link, its go two large bolts a idler arm of sorts and pulled it through there

sent from my mind via of telepathy

That's what I'd had in mind. The puller required to remove the drag link is $15 at Autozone. It's on the loan a tool program, too, just in case I don't care to keep it.

 

[tonydiv]

Unless you have a real AC machine that can draw a vacuum on the system, have a pro do the recharge. You can certainly change out the parts yourself.

 

[Notmyidi]

That's what I'd had in mind. The puller required to remove the drag link is $15 at Autozone. It's on the loan a tool program, too, just in case I don't care to keep it.

I concur, plus if you got bad ends you can do it while your there. its an excuse

Unless you have a real AC machine that can draw a vacuum on the system, have a pro do the recharge. You can certainly change out the parts yourself.

Ill agree, you need to make sure your system will hold a vacuum of 29.99 inches of mercury (29.99 inches HG), 30 inches of mercury is perfect, but its unattainable dont even try.

You can do it with gauges and a seperate vacuum pump (they make ones that are eletric and ones that hook up to your compressed air), hooks up to the yellow line on a guage set.

if you choose to do it he old fashioned way, you dont need to pull a vacuum to disassemble it. just upon re-assembly

 

[robbieg]

You probably don't need worry about recovering the freon. If you blew the seals on the compressor and you can see the oil and die all over the gas is already gone.

 

[Notmyidi]

You probably don't need worry about recovering the freon. If you blew the seals on the compressor and you can see the oil and die all over the gas is already gone.

And that what i get for skimming thread, if you blew the compressor seal the refrig is already gone.

You would need to vac down upon reassembly maybe even dry nitrogen it (testing purposes)

 

[shadow460]

Yes, most of the gas is gone. Autozone has vacuum pumps on their loan a tool program, which I plan to use.

I'm a certified residential A/C tech. Don't get me wrong, though, I do appreciate the reminder on leak testing and pulling a vacuum. My 134a gauge set doesn't show vacuum, but since there are no other dye stains, once I've pulled a deep vacuum and added a single can of 134a, I'll be able to leak test with soap bubbles. I just don't have the tools necessary to work with dry nitrogen.

What threw me is how to physically get the compressor away from the vehicle once it's unbolted and the lines are loose. When I get to that point on a residential unit, a couple of big burly guys can just lift the compressor out. This is a different ball game, though.

As for the drag link, a nearby tire shop says its good, but I could use some ball joints. :/