5280tunage
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You do, but it takes an extra 10 minutes or so, not a big deal.
Adding skid plates to 2018 Limited with tow package?
- Thread starter scottdm
- Start date
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bushpilot
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I would like to (only) replace the fiber/felt windage tray that covers the oil pan....
Can anyone tell me what the Raptor P/N is to replace the windage/felt tray for my 2020 Expy Max.
Can anyone tell me what the Raptor P/N is to replace the windage/felt tray for my 2020 Expy Max.
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scottdm
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Refer to post 31 in this thread for the Raptor transmission skid plate, and post 51 for the oil drain access cover that attaches to the Raptor transmission skid plate.
bushpilot
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Thanks @scottdm (tascaparts is coming up a bit more expensive on the "undercover").
For anyone else that wants to SEARCH for pricing here are the P/N in a cut / paste form!
Under Cover - Product ID: HL3Z-7222-A
Plate Bolt -Product ID: -W505594-S440
Sunroof Frame Screw - Product ID: W717268S439
Front Shield U-Nut - Product ID: -W717634-S439
Under Cover Access Panel - Product ID: HL3Z-7222-B
Tasca Parts is coming up a bit more expensive on the tray - shipping is gonna put it over the top - ill be shopping around to see if I can avoid the shipping!
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scottdm
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You will also need small speed nuts for the (3) W505594-S440 allen screws that attach the oil drain cover plate to the Raptor skid plate. You may need to call your local Ford parts counter to find the part number.
bushpilot
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OP
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scottdm
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No, like these, but smaller to fit the access cover screws.
jdeddy
Member
Slipstream: how did you get the back part of the front skid plate bolted onto the frame? I did the same thing buying the 09-14' full package and can't figure out how to bolt the back part of the skid plate. Did you drill/tap the rear holes on each back end into the frame or did you use the included bolt hangers to put them on? Thanks!
lefty hack
Well-Known Member
I talked with Tim at RCI. I have RCIs plates from the engine back through the transmission. As I’m sure you’re aware the fuel skid plate fromRCI for F150s don’t fit on the Max Expy. I was able to get a plate pictured below cut bent and drilled. I’m going to hang it Wednesday this week. My plan is to drill 3 holes in each of the 2 tank straps and use speed clips. I’m a little concerned as I wasn’t able to have the plate bent in the middle to recess into where the straps come across. I’ll post more pics and OFF ROAD test it.
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lefty hack
Well-Known Member
Sorry but I don't know why the pics are upside down.... but here is the finish. I used a large piece of roll paper and taped it up to the bottom the tank. I then cut the corners off where the plate would hit the frame in the front and rear. Marked where the straps were and noted where the mold of the tank left gaps to be able to run a bolt up into the empty space. pictured below. The Plate is 61" x21" the straps holding the tank are 34" apart. As you can see I had the front and side edges bent up. I used speed nuts, bolts washers and locktite. Jacked up the drivers side to access the tank area and used a second jack from the other side to hole the skid plate in place. There is a bit of up pressure on the center of the tank as its shape has a bit of a pot belly. 
I'm no pro... shade tree at best ....I've test driven it on and off road.... not failed yet
I'm no pro... shade tree at best ....I've test driven it on and off road.... not failed yet
You can go into your media and edit the picture there. (rotate pic) It will change it everywhere on here.
julijn
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I ordered the skids from rci and installed them on my 18 limited. at first I brought them to 4Wparts and they could not figure it out. They said they were the wrong brackets and nothing lined up. took it home and did it my self. fyi they ae completely bolt on . no modifications. took me 1 hour because they are pretty hefty... WOW!! they are nice.. so much protection now. I definently recommend this kit.. but for the 18 expy you need to get the older f150 plates... good luck....
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Going_Going_Gone
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"Older F-150," meaning how much older?
Thanks for the info
Thanks for the info
julijn
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this is the set i got. even though it says up 17 expy.. https://rcimetalworks.com/product-category/ford/expedition-navigator/
KFordEx8
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For RCI, do fasteners need to be ordered?
Anyone running a combo of Raptor transmission and RCI front?
Anyone running a combo of Raptor transmission and RCI front?
Yes, on my 2018 Exp Max XLT I installed the factory gas tank shield, factory tranfser case plate, Raptor transmisson plate and 2 RCI steel plates for under the engine and intercooler.
I like the Raptor skid plate because it is belly shaped and hides the catalytic converters better and is a driect bolt on but I expect the trans plate from RCI is thicker and stronger.
The factory stuff I chased down on the internet a piece at a time to get best prices from various Ford dealers. They seem to offer random discounts so just search part by part and watch the shipping it makes a big difference. Could not get the little oil-change cover that goes on the Raptor trans pan. It was out of stock everywhere and they jacked up the prices so I plan to make my own out of 1/16 steel.
I think I screwed up when I ordered the older style RCI plates for the 2007-2017 Expy / F150 09-14. I had to do some modifications to get them to fit and will explain.
The front plate that goes under the intercooler comes with two heavy Z shape brackets and was able to place them right on the frame next to the intercooler brackets but did have to drill new bolt holes in the brackets, I only used one bolt here instead of two. You might have to clearance the edge of the bracket to get it to fit against the intercooler bracket.
This was the only modification for the front of the front plate. It is very heavy duty with nice key hole slots for easy removal and durable finish, it did not scratch off even with all the messing with it.
The plate under the engine at the rear has slots and bolts into the same holes as the original transmision cover no problem.
The problem comes where the front and engine plates meet in the middle. On the Expy they bottomed out up against both the steering rack and the front differential.
My solution was to get a 12in. piece of 1.5 square tubing 1/8in. thick, drill two holes in it for the bolts, placing it between the engine cross member and the plates.
This provided plenty of clearance between the plates and the steering and differential and spaced perfectly with the framing on each side where it juts down from the engine cross member.
I drilled two holes in the front plate near the back edge and sloted them. Now I can loosen the 4 bolts of the front plate and slide it forward in the key holes to remove it for changing oil filter etc.
Have to admit this part turned out really slick. In the front of the under engine plate I also drilled and sloted the holes where it overlaps and joins with the front plate unter the 1.5in. tube spacer.
All and all I'm very happy with the outcome but did not plan on doing this many modifications. It took me a bit to work it out but reality is the modifications just consisted of drilling holes in the front brackets, drilling and sloting holes at the rear of the front plate, then drilling and sloting the front of the under engine plate, obtaining a 12in long piece of 1.5in. x 1.5in x 1/8in thick piece of square tubing and drilling two holes in it. I also had to get some longer metric shoulder bolts to go through both plates in the center where they meet and through the square tubing into the existing nut clips in the engine cross member. BTW, the framing under the Expy is impressively built.
I think the two bolts were 70mm or 2 3/4 long and got lucky and found them at the local hardware at $5 each which actually is inline with what the dealer charges for similar bolts.
The RCI plates came with good hardware including the nut clips that go into frame slots and metric shoulder bolts but they are zinc coated and not galvanized like the factory ones.
I am very pleased with the quality of the RCI plates, they are way more heavy duty than I will every need. RCI must have had them in-stock because they arrived in just 3 or 4 days of ordering them. I suspect the newer style F150 plates would fit the Expy better but still not sure. I am due to change the oil soon and will take pictures if anyone wants to seem.
I like the Raptor skid plate because it is belly shaped and hides the catalytic converters better and is a driect bolt on but I expect the trans plate from RCI is thicker and stronger.
The factory stuff I chased down on the internet a piece at a time to get best prices from various Ford dealers. They seem to offer random discounts so just search part by part and watch the shipping it makes a big difference. Could not get the little oil-change cover that goes on the Raptor trans pan. It was out of stock everywhere and they jacked up the prices so I plan to make my own out of 1/16 steel.
I think I screwed up when I ordered the older style RCI plates for the 2007-2017 Expy / F150 09-14. I had to do some modifications to get them to fit and will explain.
The front plate that goes under the intercooler comes with two heavy Z shape brackets and was able to place them right on the frame next to the intercooler brackets but did have to drill new bolt holes in the brackets, I only used one bolt here instead of two. You might have to clearance the edge of the bracket to get it to fit against the intercooler bracket.
This was the only modification for the front of the front plate. It is very heavy duty with nice key hole slots for easy removal and durable finish, it did not scratch off even with all the messing with it.
The plate under the engine at the rear has slots and bolts into the same holes as the original transmision cover no problem.
The problem comes where the front and engine plates meet in the middle. On the Expy they bottomed out up against both the steering rack and the front differential.
My solution was to get a 12in. piece of 1.5 square tubing 1/8in. thick, drill two holes in it for the bolts, placing it between the engine cross member and the plates.
This provided plenty of clearance between the plates and the steering and differential and spaced perfectly with the framing on each side where it juts down from the engine cross member.
I drilled two holes in the front plate near the back edge and sloted them. Now I can loosen the 4 bolts of the front plate and slide it forward in the key holes to remove it for changing oil filter etc.
Have to admit this part turned out really slick. In the front of the under engine plate I also drilled and sloted the holes where it overlaps and joins with the front plate unter the 1.5in. tube spacer.
All and all I'm very happy with the outcome but did not plan on doing this many modifications. It took me a bit to work it out but reality is the modifications just consisted of drilling holes in the front brackets, drilling and sloting holes at the rear of the front plate, then drilling and sloting the front of the under engine plate, obtaining a 12in long piece of 1.5in. x 1.5in x 1/8in thick piece of square tubing and drilling two holes in it. I also had to get some longer metric shoulder bolts to go through both plates in the center where they meet and through the square tubing into the existing nut clips in the engine cross member. BTW, the framing under the Expy is impressively built.
I think the two bolts were 70mm or 2 3/4 long and got lucky and found them at the local hardware at $5 each which actually is inline with what the dealer charges for similar bolts.
The RCI plates came with good hardware including the nut clips that go into frame slots and metric shoulder bolts but they are zinc coated and not galvanized like the factory ones.
I am very pleased with the quality of the RCI plates, they are way more heavy duty than I will every need. RCI must have had them in-stock because they arrived in just 3 or 4 days of ordering them. I suspect the newer style F150 plates would fit the Expy better but still not sure. I am due to change the oil soon and will take pictures if anyone wants to seem.
KFordEx8
Full Access Members
From what I've read in this thread, the older style is the one to get for the 4th Gen. I'm wondering how no mods were needed for one and required mods to fit.
Coop7379
Member
i installed the raptor skid plate today. Required raptor front mou ts and self fabricated rear brackets. Very happy with how it came out. Had to trim the wheel wells for it to sit right but other than that it was pretty straight forward 
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Coop7379, Nicely done on the Rapter plates..
Changed my oil recently and finally took some pictures of my RCI engine skid plate installation, front to back.
Remember I ordered the "older" style RCI plates for 2009-2014 F150.
The RCI front skid plate is laying on ground, only modifcations were to drill two holes for new center spacer in factory location on frame and to slot all the rear holes.
I used the rear engine plate to line up where to drill these two holes.
Next is the RCI front mounting bracket under intercooler with no modifications however I did only use one bolt and clip to the frame as this was all that fit.
Favorite thing about the front plate is that it can easily be removed by losening all the bolts, slide the plate forward, and drop it through the keyhole slots.
Also easy to refit by lifting through the keyholes, sliding it back, then tighten the bolts. This is so cool, no balancing the heavy plate while trying to start the bolts.
Lastly, the third picture shows the RCI rear-half engine plate installed with the font one removed for oil filter change etc.
No modifcations were done to the rear-half skid plate and the factory bolt locations were used.
Notice the two prominent bolts in front and the 1.5 inch square x 1/8 square tubing spacer between the skid plate and frame.
The 70 mm long bolts are in the factory location that bolted down the original skid plate that only covered the electric steering.
There was also a ground strap bolted to the frame cross member here that I had to clearance for in the square tubing.
The square hole in the rear-half plate lets oil drain out of the rear side of the oil filter drip pan.
This works great al long as the front of the vehicle is a little higher than the rear when removing the oil filter or it will drain out the front side of the little drip pan and you will likely get an oil bath.
On a side note, I had installed a JCI catch can and there was 7/8 inch of liquid in it at 5K oil change. It was only an ounce or two but was surprised to see it.
Changed my oil recently and finally took some pictures of my RCI engine skid plate installation, front to back.
Remember I ordered the "older" style RCI plates for 2009-2014 F150.
The RCI front skid plate is laying on ground, only modifcations were to drill two holes for new center spacer in factory location on frame and to slot all the rear holes.
I used the rear engine plate to line up where to drill these two holes.
Next is the RCI front mounting bracket under intercooler with no modifications however I did only use one bolt and clip to the frame as this was all that fit.
Favorite thing about the front plate is that it can easily be removed by losening all the bolts, slide the plate forward, and drop it through the keyhole slots.
Also easy to refit by lifting through the keyholes, sliding it back, then tighten the bolts. This is so cool, no balancing the heavy plate while trying to start the bolts.
Lastly, the third picture shows the RCI rear-half engine plate installed with the font one removed for oil filter change etc.
No modifcations were done to the rear-half skid plate and the factory bolt locations were used.
Notice the two prominent bolts in front and the 1.5 inch square x 1/8 square tubing spacer between the skid plate and frame.
The 70 mm long bolts are in the factory location that bolted down the original skid plate that only covered the electric steering.
There was also a ground strap bolted to the frame cross member here that I had to clearance for in the square tubing.
The square hole in the rear-half plate lets oil drain out of the rear side of the oil filter drip pan.
This works great al long as the front of the vehicle is a little higher than the rear when removing the oil filter or it will drain out the front side of the little drip pan and you will likely get an oil bath.
On a side note, I had installed a JCI catch can and there was 7/8 inch of liquid in it at 5K oil change. It was only an ounce or two but was surprised to see it.
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