Well, I think I'm finally set up correctly. I hate when people post up shit but never return to tell everybody how the situation was resolved. So, this is how my issue panned out.
As already posted, my trans temp sensor is in the driver side test port on the tranny. It seems to run fairly close with my SCT programmer. It's about 3 degrees cooler than the SCT until the trans reaches about 160 degrees. Over 160 degrees, the Autometer gauge runs about 7-10 degrees cooler than the SCT...even on 100 degree days. As long as I know this, I'm good. I still need to replace the cooler bypass valve, but that might have to wait until spring (unless I get lucky). My list of fall "honey do's" is getting longer by the day. lol
The coolant temp sensor was originally mounted in a water jacket on the driver side of the block. The instructions on Autometer's page specifically states this is the best place to put the sensor. However, after speaking with several AM tech guys, they stated they thought the water jacket was the worst place to put it. SO, after MUCH deliberation and research for possible locations to mount the sensor (I REALLY did not want to try to "T" off the head temp sensor under the intake), I stumbled on an article (on an Excursion page) where guys were mounting their sensors on the intake manifolds, with the EGR heater valve. SO, of course this seemed like the logical place to me since it's right there at the thermostat. I had looked at this position for months, but I had no idea what that thing sticking out of the intake was, lol, and didn't want to chance screwing up something. Anyway, I installed a brass "T", and put the sender right there with the EGR heater valve. This is without a doubt the best place for an aftermarket gauge sender. Our ambient temps have dropped, and it was only 75 degrees today, but the AM gauge never ran more than 3 degrees cooler than the SCT programmer. As far as I'm concerned, this situation is resolved, although I think I'm going to put the EGR heater valve on a 90 fitting to clear things a little better. You can see it in the pic below.
I also finally got around to hooking up the oil pressure gauge. I spent a lot of time researching this also, and eventually decided to go with a GlowShift oil filter sandwich adapter (part #GS-AF5). It's the 22mm 1.5 version. This thing seems fairly well built, and provides optional ports for placement of up to 4 devices. I also went with the A-1 Racing Products 24" oil pressure line kit with 1/8" NPT fittings (part #18400-24GLK-O) to remotely mount the sending unit for the gauge. After installing it today, I probably should have went with the 42" kit, and more than likely I'll change. I don't like where I had to strap the sending unit, but that's all the line I had. I want to bring it up more in the engine compartment. You can see it in the pic.
Here's a bad pic of the braided line mounted in the sandwich adaptor. I couldn't get my phone in there any further to get a better pic.
I was also able to resolve an issue with the lighting on the gauges. If you have ever used a digital Autometer gauge, you know it is bright as hell, even when you connect them to the stock dimmer. AM is apparently aware of this, and makes their own dimmer to put inline with the stock dimmer. So I bought one and installed. Set it where I wanted the lights, and I can still dim them (or turn them off) with the stock dimmer switch. LOVE it. Below is a pic of them during the daytime, and the other is with the headlights turned on. Granted, it's still daytime, but you can definitely see the difference.
Hopefully, this provides enough info for anybody wanting to do this mod to their trucks, or at least helps with understanding how the gauges work.
