AWD Mode

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Dan Faoro

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We have a 2020 XLT Max and I’m uncertain over which drive modes to use. We are about to do a long road trip that will take us through the PA mountains to Chicago. I’m anticipating at least some patchy snow and ice. What is the best mode for highelway speeds in these conditions?

Normally on a rod trip I put it in ECO mode and set the cruise control. Is running it in ECO with 4A on a good option for a trip like this?
 
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Dan Faoro

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Yes, that’s my thought. 2H when it’s dry or just wet, but 4A if there is any snow showing up, even if patchy which is where I am most concerned.
 

Gumby

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If you run 4A on bare road the front axle is spinning and sucking fuel. Run it in 2H when the roads clear, then use 4A when the snow shows up if it ever does.
Literally this. I just did a 10-hour drive through sketchy and hairy weather in the mountain passes through Alberta and BC. I varied the awd from 2H to 4A and never touched the drive modes. In fact, I rarely use those modes at all...and I have gone through some seriously gong show weather. The Expy was just fine. I also run studded Nokians so that plays a role for sure.
 

lv2drive

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If you run 4A on bare road the front axle is spinning and sucking fuel. Run it in 2H when the roads clear, then use 4A when the snow shows up if it ever does.

in my experience, i have seen zero difference in fuel consumption after extensive highly varied driving in normal mode 2H or normal mode 4A, for comparison purposes.

if there is a mpg difference, it's not showing up with any significance on my repeated actual per-gallon maths 90% of the time from the exact same station / same pump / same octane, for the entire pandemic basically....

(not sure if it makes any difference that i've got the 4wd / 3.31)

i did not really believe it at first, until i methodically tried it for both long trips & local city driving as well, just to make sure i was actually getting the same results in either mode & in all conditions. i know the front axle is spinning in 4a of course, so there is obviously the potential for extra wear, but i have a warranty for another 8 years & 100k more miles, so i don't really care about that so much - so far i've got about 10k running in 4A daily & no issues on the front end have appeared yet, currently @ 50k.

who knows maybe i'll eat my words in short order, call me crazy but i *always* run mine in 4A because the front end steering tightens up significantly & i prefer the way the truck handles on our back country roads - plus i usually have to to actively evade to avoid a deer at least once a week, sometimes in pretty extreme cornering & ending up damned near sideways, so i would rather have the truck in 4A in general just in case i started to lose any traction for any reason, wet, dry, wildlife, whatever...

i'm sure i'll get flak for it - but in short i've not been able to show any MPG difference between them & i love leaving it on 4A - all. the. time. (until something breaks & i come back here complaining about being stuck in an escape while they source parts...)
 

Kudie

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Front hubs are always locked on the newer f150 and expedition
Everything is always spinning.
 

LokiWolf

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Front hubs are always locked on the newer f150 and expedition
Everything is always spinning.
That is a 100% inaccurate statement. Do a search on a 150 site for IWE, or in the case of the 2021+ EIWE, and do some reading. They definitely lock and unlock depending on Mode or Drive selection. In 4A on the 150 and Expedition, they are engaged, but the Center Diff only sends Torque forward when slip is sensed.
 

Soliyou

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That is a 100% inaccurate statement. Do a search on a 150 site for IWE, or in the case of the 2021+ EIWE, and do some reading. They definitely lock and unlock depending on Mode or Drive selection. In 4A on the 150 and Expedition, they are engaged, but the Center Diff only sends Torque forward when slip is sensed.

Yeah, they finally ditched the vacuum operated hubs and started using an electric actuator.

I am interested in the idea of retrofitting these electric hubs in place of the current air hubs. If they fit mechanically, we can run a control wire from the vacuum solenoid and power them directly from the battery.
 

sjwhiteley

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Depending on your tires: I have the OEM Hankooks which are marginal, so use 4A in wet conditions. The rear tires have slipped. The 4A helps keep things aligned. Better tires wouldnt have this problem.
 

Janky

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in my experience, i have seen zero difference in fuel consumption after extensive highly varied driving in normal mode 2H or normal mode 4A, for comparison purposes.
...
I have to agree. I have not done extensive testing, but with minimal comparison, 4A vs 2H doesn't seem to make a significant impact on fuel economy. I agree... doesn't make sense. I have been driving more aggressive lately and I'm starting to think I should use 4A more for safety reasons. When I really get on the gas on wet roads, the rear end will slip ever so slowly - enough to feel it but not enough to fire the traction control.
 

mr_dave

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I am interested in the idea of retrofitting these electric hubs in place of the current air hubs. If they fit mechanically, we can run a control wire from the vacuum solenoid and power them directly from the battery.

Very interesting idea, I'd also like to know if this is possible.
 

Gumby

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Well, I just returned from the dealer where they diagnosed a vacuum leak from the front end somewhere. I was getting a weird low hum / noise when in 4A and not in 2H, so per Ford's direction, they have now permanently locked my front hubs. I was told to feel slightly more drag and potentially a bit worse fuel consumption. Still too early to tell. Don't get me started on the rear pinion seal that is leaking AGAIN. 4th time so this go around they will be changing the flange as the seal was never seated properly apparently. Also, diagnosed two other front end diff seals that need changing FFS.
 

LokiWolf

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Yeah, they finally ditched the vacuum operated hubs and started using an electric actuator.

I am interested in the idea of retrofitting these electric hubs in place of the current air hubs. If they fit mechanically, we can run a control wire from the vacuum solenoid and power them directly from the battery.
The 150 guys have broken this down, and don't think it is an easy swap. Need new knuckles too supposedly. Curious if the 22 Expy will switch to the new EiWE?

 

mr_dave

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The 150 guys have broken this down, and don't think it is an easy swap. Need new knuckles too supposedly.

Well that's disappointing, but thanks for the info. New knuckles makes it a non-starter, as far as I'm concerned.
 

JExpedition07

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Does anyone have access to parts diagrams for 2022 MY? That would be the tell all…electric sounds like a much more reliable solution.
 

LokiWolf

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Does anyone have access to parts diagrams for 2022 MY? That would be the tell all…electric sounds like a much more reliable solution.
Only time will tell honestly, but based on theory, yes I agree. I am also curious on the 22's.
 
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Dan Faoro

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Just returned from the trip, 11 hours from Braidwood, Illinois to Virginia. The first three hours were in a mix of light, cold slushy snow to patchy snow/ice. Ran it in 4A in normal mode. Didn’t feel any slip and also didn’t notice any discernible difference in fuel consumption which was a big surprise and very different than my 2009 F-150! We are also running the stock Hanoi tires which I have been pleased with.
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Kudie

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LokiWolf, my 2021 stealth and most of the 21s that i know of do not have a vacum solenoid. There is a TSB for front hubs on 150 and expedition. They un hook the vacum lines and plug them so the hubs are always engaged , fords wonderful way of fixing problem hubs.
 

LokiWolf

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LokiWolf, my 2021 stealth and most of the 21s that i know of do not have a vacum solenoid. There is a TSB for front hubs on 150 and expedition. They un hook the vacum lines and plug them so the hubs are always engaged , fords wonderful way of fixing problem hubs.
Correct, then they are using the new hubs that the 2021 150’s have. They are still NOT always locked. Your original statement in this thread was wrong. Please read the link I posted to the 150 forum for more explanation. I have not seen a hub diagram for a 21 Expedition to compare to a 20 Expedition diagram. Maybe they are the new style. Visual inspection or a picture of the back side of the hub can confirm that.

Yes, when the parts are not available for the vacuum based trucks, a way to guarantee 4WD is to lock the hubs. It should never be a permanent solution, and is NOT how they are intended to function.
 
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