Banker with tools vs Cylinder Head

[rvanbeers]

I spent many hours researching this and have found very little. I hope this helps someone as I document this and hope people provide some insight before I get too deep. Here's the story so far

Misfire on 2. Changed COP plugs etc. Took to large Automotive shop they recommended a 800 spark plug change. I said WT F I just changed them did you open the hood? $120 for their 16 year old kid code read

Next stop ford. They said #2 cylinder dead and no compression (relative compression - Google that and not much there). $255 bucks and recommended mechanical diagnosis.

Next stop small shop close to my office for a leak down. Diagnosis - broke rocker arm /open intake valve. $500 to fix. Sure enough rocker arm broke (came off...I'm not sure) I authorized the repair. Replaced it and lash $755...... but wait......they forgot to tell me about the bent valve caused by the rocker arm being dislodged. Because of the bent valve they had to set a higher clearance but it still sticks. 755 dollars later, I still have no compression and a lovely tick which wasn;t there before. They said new engine. 19 Hours to pull the head or 22 hours to replace the engine.

Thought to myself I have tools and time and I always like to add more tools if needed. My mechanical experience extends to brakes, Fuel pumps, Ignition etc. I've never torn down a motor let alone go toe to toe with the tight fit 2003 5.3 expy.

I have purchased the Chilton Manual and have begun the process. I'm down to the intake manifold and valve cover removed. Before I go any deeper.........

Am I off my rocker or is this doable in vehicle. I have no problem taking time.

If I (when I) get the head out what should I expect in terms of fixing a bent intake valve. My assumption is to take it to a rebuilder/machine shop. Is this a big job? Can the valve be bent back or is it bigger.

Timing chain / cam scares the crap out of me. Am I reading too much into it?

Lastly - if anyone has done this. What is the biggest challenge I face following the intake removal. The thing that may create tall bridge type thoughts. I'm taking lots of pictures and documenting the process. Im good at taking things apart. Its putting it back together that may be an issue.

Any insight is greatly appreciated:********:

 

[stamp11127]

Before going any farther I'd suggest reading the manual on removing the heads, setting the cam timing and basic procedure of the repair. Look at the investment in tools you may not have and will need to purchase or borrow.

And you'll probably snap a few exhaust manifold bolts in the removal process.

Good rule is to change both heads when doing this. I always source rebuilt heads/gasket set/head bolts prior to starting. That way I have everything before I start and can compare heads in case I need to move anything from the old to the new.

Depending on current mileage & how long I plan on keeping the vehicle, I'd also consider an engine swap.

 

[1997SCEBFEX]

Good rule is to change both heads when doing this. I always source rebuilt heads/gasket set/head bolts prior to starting.

+1 on this. my repower/build was quoted $2995 before accessories and just a bit over $4000 out-the-door w/ a three-year (original owner) warranty. took time, but they machined it, ported/polished...the long part was reassembly because of the s/c and aftercooler and plumbing.

fyi that i had 147K when the #3 ejected, then ingested itself cracking the passenger-side head.

I would NOT recommend doing on-frame, pull her out...you'll wish you did in the long run IMHO.

 

[rvanbeers]

Hmm. Growing confused. I'm cheap and only wanted to fix the bent intake valve and hope to get another 25K.

Opinions please. Pull the passenger head on the frame??? or.... if I have to pull the motor I might as well try and source a low mileage used. Yes or know. Is pulling the motor an easier task n- i.e disconnecting Trany etc. I'm trying to balance my capabilities and expense.

 

[FordandPolaris]

If you are only looking for another 25k in mileage, buy a 1st gen expy and sell the one you have as a mechanic's special. 1st gens are ridiculously cheap (many under 3k with life left in them) but if you are going to go to the trouble of replacing one valve, you may as well rebuild the top end on both sides. It is going to be tough to do inside the truck as has been said.

 

[stamp11127]

It will be as much of a pain in the ass to change the head as it will be to swap the engine.
They both will have you cussing up a storm before it is over....
You already have almost $800 in it. Why cut corners now?
If the expy is a pos, dump it and get a better one.
Personally I'd go the lower mileage engine route. I'm pretty sure the 4.6 is also used in the Crown Vics.
How many miles are on the clock?

 

[rvanbeers]

It has 220 KM (125K Miles). The truck is immaculate so worthy of a few dollars but not an additional $3 grand. it's the 5.4 2V

I'm going to continue the battle and get to head of things. Fixing the valve and putting it back together is a $2K increase in resale value should I decide to dump it.

Stay tuned for a good laugh. Going to tackle the exhaust, fan and radiator tomorrow. If the one side goes well I may bite the bullet and do both.

Thanks for all the comments. Has anyone here tried to pull the head off in the vehicle or are these good judgement comments?

 

[samuraj]

check youtube for head removal

 

[stamp11127]

I don't remember who it was but one member stated you had to leave the head bolts in the head, loose of course, when removing the heads.

Once you have the head off, coat the cylinders with heavy oil to prevent/slow rusting. Don't be stingy either. Same with the deck once it's clean.

Soak any rusted hardware with PB Blaster and let it sit a few hours. Don't be stingy here also.

Set the engine at TDC on #1 cylinder or what the manual says if different before taking off the chains.

Keep the bolts/hardware separate and labeled. Makes it easier to reassemble.
I use one or two of the crafts plastic 24 bin containers with lid.

You'll probably need the cam tools - "Ford 4.6L, 5.4L, & 6.8L Modular V-8, 2-Valve 1992 - Up, Cam Timing Service Tool Kit" See if your local auto parts will rent them or google for a set.

Happy wrenching

 

[rburch]

If it were me i would drop the heads off at a machine shop and have them do the heads.

More than likely the bent valve is probably going to need a new valve guide and that is not doable in the driveway!