Battery dead - Resolved 6/23/19

[juan214]

Continued from post #20
A (auto ranging on) No difference between on or off)

 

[stamp11127]

Hate to say this but the meter is junk. There are 1000 mA in 1A so you should only see the decimal point move between the settings. If the reading isn't different with the alt disconnected then it is time to think a little deeper. Are there any additional aftermarket circuits added?
We'll use the .482A reading as a starting point. That is the same as 482mA. A module isn't entering sleep mode or an led/light is still lit.

Normal parasitic draw reading per Optima:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Vaw2-ek-_USpnqokrY03ADfre&cshid=1561199320777

 

[juan214]

Hate to say this but the meter is junk. There are 1000 mA in 1A so you should only see the decimal point move between the settings. If the reading isn't different with the alt disconnected then it is time to think a little deeper. Are there any additional aftermarket circuits added?
We'll use the .482A reading as a starting point. That is the same as 482mA. A module isn't entering sleep mode or an led/light is still lit.

Normal parasitic draw reading per Optima:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Vaw2-ek-_USpnqokrY03ADfre&cshid=1561199320777

So you're saying the meter is a Crapsman tool not a Craftsman tool (LOL)

The mA reading with auto ranging off showed .98

Hopefully my son gets home early enough for me to work on it.

No the truck is all stock with no aftermarket radio, add ons or mods. The only issue ii has is a seize ac clutch or compressor that is bypasses til I get to it. That was the only fuse blown in the box when I pulled the fuses for draw testing and there were no change in readings.

I'm thinking a possible alternator issue with the brand supplier from AutoZone. This would be the third one I have installed. The previous owner had continuing issue after ther first one was replaced. If not the alternator I'm going to revisit the door switches again and dome lights. Lastly the radio can not think of anything else.

 

[stamp11127]

Before disconnecting the alternator check the ac output of it by setting the meter to ac volts, place the red lead on the output stud - black lead on the alt case. Run engine at @2500 with the high-beams turned on and the hvac blower motor on high. This will load the alternator and cause it to charge the battery. Anything higher than .5 volt ac indicates a diode problem.
This is the AC Ripple test.

 

[TobyU]

Many times if you have a alt that is draining quickly you can put a hot battery in it or leave it on charger and the alt will be slightly warm to the touch. Not hot, just not the same temp and the other metal around it.

 

[juan214]

It may be resolve, I decided to work on it last night he had to leave early this morning. Meter still read the same draw. Checked all door pins, interior lights, switches, radio, sat in it to listen for any active noise. still nothing. Disconnected the hot wire on alternator and we went from .482 A to .006 A. Connected it back up and it went back up to .482 A. Went and took it off again dropped to .006 A. I hate electrical work sometimes.

Here how stupid it was.
Five alternators and three batteries later..............
Evidently the previous owner had the issues for years til we bought it. Her mechanic (boyfriend) installed the original alternator and it failed. Swapped it out under warranty and had the same issue and the owner gave up (plus the other issues it had) on it then sold it to us for $500. Never told us about the issues it had. Buyer beware LOL. Replaced that rebuilt one under warranty it had when we purchased, it failed. Replaced rebuilt alternator under warranty, it failed within a week or two. Replacement rebuilt alternator installed.

Findings:
IT WAS A FN WIRE RUBBING AGAINST THE ALTERNATOR CASING. The wire loom moved and exposed the wire. Taped it and moved the loom back towards the alternator. Alternator was charging between 13.50 V - 14.12 V now.

My son just got home got some hot readings. Truck started with no issues this morning I got to sleep in.

12.56 V OFF
13.80 V at idle started fine
13.60 V headlight on
12.61 V OFF
Computer takes longer to go to sleep.
.005 - .006 A draw

After an hour readings are good.

I'll take another set of readings in the morning.

We will see in a couple of days if that was the issue.

Thanks Rich I appreciate your time and effort always.

We Bought the truck for $500. The brakes were seized, had a bad rattle in the front end, Seized A/C clutch or pump (not sure which yet). We did rotors, pads, shoes, rear hubs, alternator, battery and a pair of used tires last year just to get back on the road. Struts this past month it was the rattle in the front end. Rears shocks, alignment, and complete exhaust are next on the list by summers end.

 

[TobyU]

Electrical gremlins are a pain.

 

[stamp11127]

See, it is always something simple once you find it. Electrical is a pain for the majority of owners but not all. Crazy people like myself enjoy the challenge - makes you think without being there to see for yourself.

Sometimes you have to "think outside the box". I tell people I'm so far outside the box I can't see it anymore.

You had it easy. The pic above is the world I used to work in. And no, I'm not responsible for that disaster.

 

[juan214]

See, it is always something simple once you find it. Electrical is a pain for the majority of owners but not all. Crazy people like myself enjoy the challenge - makes you think without being there to see for yourself.

Sometimes you have to "think outside the box". I tell people I'm so far outside the box I can't see it anymore.

You had it easy. This is the world I used to work in. And no, I'm not responsible for that disaster.

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1...8#imgdii=zh1bHTk1Euy_2M:&imgrc=b5JAEvRp_kQkrM:

At least it was not as bad as my starter issue a few months back. I did end changing the the starter out.

 

[juan214]

Well its day four and usualy the truck would be dead by now. I did not get asked for a jump, so I would assume the draw issue has been resolved.

Now to figure out if the A/C clutch or the compressor is seized on it, next nightmare please.

Think I'll work on my own truck for a bit, gremlin under the dash.

Thanks Rich and everyone who gave there input.

 

[stamp11127]

We also do A/C work here, start a new thread.

 

[Eyecando]

UPDATED:
The alternator was not disconnected. The reading were not showing on the meter.

I know, took it apart there two ceramic fuses in it. Printed on one it said 500mA 250V the other ws 10A 250V. No one in the area has them. So I went to home depot they had the glass version, those didn't make a difference. Guess I have to take a ride at one point between jobs. Eighty dollar meter, five dollar parts, Hour and a half ride go figure.

So the Craftsman meter issue was I bought it from Sears (LOL). I called the closest store they blow. I was told that electrical items have no warranty. I asked where to get it serviced. "I don't know call the 800 number and ask them". I ended up doing a google search of the image and its a re-branded Extech meter. Overpaid by $50 for the craftsman meter.

Called Extech directly great tech support service. I told the tech what was up he gave me the specs I needed. The meter has two fuses in it so I asked which one goes where. Info was not available due to proprietary reasons. He said just follow the circuit board. I finally found the ceramic fuses drove and picked them up. They even had a hard time locating what I needed in the store. I left went home took the meter apart followed the board as told. Unbelievable the board had the specs printed on it. The specs given to me were wrong on top of that the store gave me one of the fuse in the wrong size anyway. Back to the store again (another 1 1/2 hour drive). Naturally back to square one of the fuses was not available in ceramic fast acting ended with glass ones. The sales guy said the difference is the temperature range of the fuse. Got home took the meter apart installed them finally up and running again. Readings are to follow.

No, I am planning on doing the Alt test this Sunday when I take the truck away from him.

The truck started on day three. Day four it was dead at 7.68 volts jumped it started right up. Today my son expected it to be dead but it started right up today. Here are the readings tonight after he got home a few hours earlier. I'll take reading in the morning.

BATTERY VOLTAGE (FULL CHARGE / NOT SHOWING LOW)
View attachment 30693 View attachment 30695
CCA (LOOKS GOOD)
View attachment 30694
mA (auto ranging off)
View attachment 30696
A (auto ranging off)
View attachment 30699