Battery light - 11.3 volts

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
ExplorerTom

ExplorerTom

Full Access Members
Joined
Apr 2, 2015
Posts
2,247
Reaction score
992
Location
Colorado
So I checked out all the wiring: the fuseable link, the fuses, the battery cables, the main engine harnesses. I checked for voltage and continuity. I checked everything I could think of and everything the Haynes manual said. The next step in the procedure was the start the motor and check stuff- now I have 14.0-14.3 volts.

Great.

Since I removed the upper radiator hose, I drained out 2 gallons of nasty coolant (and I just flushed the radiator pretty good about 6 weeks ago) I refilled with new and let the motor get up to temp. Voltage stayed pretty much right at 14.0.

I hate fixing stuff and not knowing if I actually fixed it, got lucky or just what. But it seems to be fixed now.
 

stamp11127

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Posts
6,218
Reaction score
1,250
Location
Temple, Georgia
Might be interested in doing a voltage drop test on the negative side of the charging circuit - alt case to neg battery post with engine running. Should be less than .5v.
 
OP
OP
ExplorerTom

ExplorerTom

Full Access Members
Joined
Apr 2, 2015
Posts
2,247
Reaction score
992
Location
Colorado
Light came back on today for the first time since Monday. Checked the voltage at the battery with a multimeter because I've heard the ScanGauge doesn't read accurately. Multimeter was showing 11.9 while the SG was around 11.5.

Got a new (not remanufactured) alternator from O'Reilly's.

Install was easy since I didn't remove the upper radiator hose.

Voltage is now at 14.4 to 14.0 with the AC on full blast.

Old alternator made a grinding noise when the pulley was spun by hand. New one is quiet and smooth.
 
Top