Big 3 electrical for car audio- access to alternator

[ateam68]

Hey anyone that’s done their big 3 for an audio upgrade or had to mess with their alt. Is there decently easy access to the alt anywhere. I need to connect to the positive stud in the alt and I neede access to one of the mounting bolts.

Thank for the input

 

[Left Coast Geek]

classically, battery + goes to directly to the starter solenoid input with a very heavy gauge wire, and from there to the alternator B+ with a not quite so heavy gauge wire, with no other stops. I just took a peek with a flashlight, looks like the alternator is tucked under the left (drivers) side of the motor towards the front... due to all the turbo plumbing I couldn't see the back of it but thats undoubtedly where the B+ terminal is.

Hmmm, wiring diagram shows the Generator B+ goes to a "High Current Battery Junction Box" 300 amp fuse, which looks to be under and behind the battery. this HCBJB goes directly to the battery + (it has several other high current fuses)

 

[ateam68]

Seems like a total effin nightmare to get to. Basically gonna have to remove all my turbo plumbing to access those area. Absolutely no access from under the vehicle. New cars suck

 

[Left Coast Geek]

Seems like a total effin nightmare to get to. Basically gonna have to remove all my turbo plumbing to access those area. Absolutely no access from under the vehicle. New cars suck

or tap it at that 300A HCBJB.

There are kits for dual alternators on EB3.5's, but they are mostly aimed at Transit vans and stuff, where there's more room under the hood.

 

[5280tunage]

I guess I'm a little confused at the desired outcome. Even back in the day when I used to build competitive car-fi systems, we always used battery/capacitors as connection points. The output from an alternator isn't always clean, batteries act like filtering devices to level off output and clean the output. Even in multi-alternator, multi-battery, cap'd systems we never went alternator direct for the 12V.