Brake pad and rotor replacement

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ManUpOrShutUp

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Approaching 62,000 and definitely getting shimmy/wobble when gently applying brakes on downhill grades even without trailer attached. I don't mean aggressively or over-using brakes, just to maintain traffic separation. When towing I usually let the TOW/HAUL feature use the engine...stay off the brakes. I'm just thinking I've got signs of warped rotors. You know what a shop will say if I take it in to get mic'd. Wonder what else it could be?

Maybe. Pull a wheel and have a better look. Heck, maybe you can feel it without pulling a wheel depending on which wheels you have. You can probably pick up a pair of decent ones for ~$100 if you shop around, so don't lose too much sleep over the possibility o them being warped.
 

shinysideup2

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Maybe. Pull a wheel and have a better look. Heck, maybe you can feel it without pulling a wheel depending on which wheels you have. You can probably pick up a pair of decent ones for ~$100 if you shop around, so don't lose too much sleep over the possibility o them being warped.

Yep. Rotors are relatively cheap and very easy to swap if you know how to pull them off. Unfortunately, it took me 3 hours and lots of unnecessary hammering and cursing to realize it's easy to pry off with a pry bar or breaker bar using the caliper bracket mount (bolt hole) on the spindle as a fulcrum.

Rock Auto's website shows a pretty good range. Once you find the style/level you might want, price-shop around.
 

postwick

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Yep. Rotors are relatively cheap and very easy to swap if you know how to pull them off. Unfortunately, it took me 3 hours and lots of unnecessary hammering and cursing to realize it's easy to pry off with a pry bar or breaker bar using the caliper bracket mount (bolt hole) on the spindle as a fulcrum.

Rock Auto's website shows a pretty good range. Once you find the style/level you might want, price-shop around.


There's a better way. (although I don't use such a long bolt as him, that's pointless)

Basically using a bolt, washer, and nut, you tighten the bolt and it pushes on the back of the rotor. After a few turns POP and the rotor is free.

 

Goofy173

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I have never ever had someone do my brakes and rotors as I've done them on every vehicle I've ever owned for 40 years. However I was in a hurry for a 2000 mile trip, the right rear inner pad had less than 1mm left, it's cold and I have no shelter, and so I had a Ford dealer do the rear pads and resurface disc's for $180. I thought that was pretty good.
 

tommyddsr

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I used Power Stop rotors and ceramic pads on my last Expedition and will use them again one my 2009 when needed. Very good and fairly economical. Break-in is a little fun with ceramics but good brakes.
 
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rollinstone

rollinstone

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I did power stop rotors cross/drill front and rear rotors with autozone ceramic gold pads, no issue

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Those are things of beauty! The RockAuto price is $415...about $520 with shipping and tax. If I was gonna keep the car for 5-6 years I'd go for them, but a decent less expensive set will do. Thing is I'm not finding anything that specifies "best for towing" other than the RockAuto listing for the Powerstop Z-36s.
 
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