Brake upgrade

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

I have a 2010 Ford Expo XLT, looking to do a brake job soon, is there a heavy duty rotor and brake pad upgrade for our trucks?

 

[montecarlo31]

You can buy EBC or similar. If you want OE you can be the severe service pads. Rotors are the same on the severe service trucks.

Don't buy the cheap drilled rotors they crack very easy since they are just junk rotors with holes drilled in them no backing support for the now weakened spots. Also make sure to do a fin count on the discs you are buying, if they have fewer than stock ditch them quick they are again junk rotors.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

Thanks, when it comes to breaks I know I need to spend money. I'm guessing you get the severe pads and rotors from ford?

 

[montecarlo31]

If you read my post you will see that the rotors are the same between all expeditions however the pads are either standard or Severe service. Severe service are available at the dealership or from online.

If you are also looking for improved feel I'd swap out the rubber lines for SS.

 

[rayt]

i have ebc yellow stuff pads, running on brakemotive drilled/slotted rotors.
i previously had stock pads, and those glazed up real quick, i now have 15k on the pads, and 20k on the rotors. no issues with my "cheap" drilled/slotted rotors. the ebc yellow stuff pads made all the difference in the world in terms of stopping power, and feel.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

Are you just doing daily driving? Cause I'm looking for an upgrade due to we use ours to pull a travel trailer.

 

[01yellerCobra]

I went with stock replacement rotors and ceramic pads this last time. Drilled and slotted rotors have less material to transfer heat. Since I tow I want all the material possible to transfer the heat. And before anyone thinks I'm completely against drilled/slotted rotors I have them on both Mustangs.

 

[GAINMOB]

but the slot...drilled...slot/drilled are designed to dissipate the heat quickly...

 

[rayt]

Are you just doing daily driving? Cause I'm looking for an upgrade due to we use ours to pull a travel trailer.

i don't tow sorry. Just a lot of crazy stop and go in NYC. To the point where my oem pads/rotors have glazed up....

 

[montecarlo31]

i don't tow sorry. Just a lot of crazy stop and go in NYC. To the point where my oem pads/rotors have glazed up....

That's actually easier on brakes then the south, try driving in Houston, Phoenix, Dallas, Tampa, Miami, Orlando. These areas frequent the same heavy stop and go traffic but at significantly higher ambient temps and at significantly higher speeds. Having living in NY, TX and FL I can tell you it was rare that I was in stop and go traffic where it would go from 80 to 0 then stop and go back to 80 then back to stop and go. That heat cycles the rotors quite severely.


For those who believe cheap cross drilled rotors hold up do some research and come back.....A quality cross drilled rotor will have a completely different look and feel than the cheap ones. You think the cross drilled on MB BMW Audi are the same quality as the chinese crap from napa, amazon or ebay?



Dangerous cross drilled rotors - EBC Brakes

 

[01yellerCobra]

but the slot...drilled...slot/drilled are designed to dissipate the heat quickly...

The point of the slots and holes was to get rid of the gasses that the brake pads would release when hot. The gas would keep the pad from making good contact with the rotor. New pad technology has pretty much eliminated that issue. Look at racing sports like Formula and NASCAR. They run solid rotors to deal with the heat. I read somewhere recently that the only reason Porsche still has drilled rotors is because the customers like the look. The vanes that run down the middle of the rotor are for cooling.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

So am I better off getting slotted and drilled rotors or just search for a heavy duty rotor? I don't move the trailer much maybe once a month at most.

 

[01yellerCobra]

If you want the bling of the drilled/slotted then get those. Otherwise a stock replacement rotor will work fine.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

Okay good deal.

 

[GaryH2]

I had warping issues on the OEM rotors and went with Centric "black hat" rotors. They are not drilled or slotted, but vented as OEM are. No warping and the wheels don't corrode onto the rotor (especially here in PA with the brine and rock salt in the winter).

I also went with Hawk LTS pads. Both seems to be an improvement over OEM. Doing the fronts tomorrow and hopefully that will get the Big Girl so stop on a dime or at least a quarter with some change!

 

[David1]

Big help to prevent warpage ie hot spots is to always roll 1-2 feet after stopping. This will help keep that heat build up from sitting on that one clamped spot.

 

[GaryH2]

Got the new pads and rotors (Hawk LTS pads and Centric plain rotors) on today. What a difference! We'll see how they bed in, but initial feeling is a nice firm pedal, good modulation and better stopping. The Bus never stopped better in the 100k I've had it! I wish I did this a while ago.

 

[mrford60]

how have your brakes holding up GaryH2. I am looking at doing mine and wanted some good feedback. thanks

 

[GaryH2]

Hey Neighbor! I'm in SE PA too!

SO far the brakes are doing just fine. No warping and the pedal is still firm.

The bus goes in next month (May) so you know in PA they will check the brakes. I'll give you the measurements then, but so far I've been pleased.

The only negative I've had so far is that I'm getting a bit of squeak when I stop sometimes. Given that the truck goes on dirt and gravel roads fairly frequently it could be due to grit and not directly attributable to the pads and rotors.

 

[mrford60]

thanks neighbor. I would be glad to hear how much wear you have in that time.