C1095 error. Replace the pump side, electric side, or whole pump?

[Dustin Gebhardt]

My ABS light has been showing up occasionally for the past several months. After doing the power and ground testing on the cable as I found elsewhere on the internet, I've decided to throw a new (used) pump at it. I don't have the replacement pump in-hand just yet, but I believe that I can leave the hydraulic portion connected to the brake lines and replace just the electrical side, if that is the problem. Does anybody have experience with this issue or error code? I don't mind replacing the hydraulic side if needed, and I believe that FORScan will allow me to activate the ABS pump to help purge any entrapped air bubbles.

 

[radevv]

Hey Dustin, can you share what did you endup replacing? How did it work out for you?

Thanks!
Ves

I have an 2007 Limited with advance track

 

[Dustin Gebhardt]

I installed the LKQ ABS pump (hydraulic side plus the electrical side). I realized that I should be using flare nut wrenches for the brake lines, but I didn't have any. I used FORScan to purge the ABS system and to program the as-built codes. It seemed to work fine, but after a few days, the brake pedal began to sink to the floor. I purged the pump several more times, and bled the brakes several times, but the pedal issue remained. I called LKQ and they sent me another unit. Once again I learned that I should really purchase some flare nut wrenches. Once again I programed the as-built codes. Once again I purged the ABS pump and bled the brakes. That was almost a year ago now and it's worked well 99% of the time. Every once in a while, the ABS system will kick in during firm braking, but I attribute that to the mis-matched tires that I have on my Expy. The tires are all the same 275/55R20 size, but different brands and in various stages of wear. I'm saving up for a 3/2 ReadyLift and larger tires in the next few months. I also debated whether or not to use just the hydraulic side or the electric side, but each time I used the whole assembly. I still have the defective one, which I assume has a bad hydraulic side.

 

[radevv]

I installed the LKQ ABS pump (hydraulic side plus the electrical side). I realized that I should be using flare nut wrenches for the brake lines, but I didn't have any. I used FORScan to purge the ABS system and to program the as-built codes. It seemed to work fine, but after a few days, the brake pedal began to sink to the floor. I purged the pump several more times, and bled the brakes several times, but the pedal issue remained. I called LKQ and they sent me another unit. Once again I learned that I should really purchase some flare nut wrenches. Once again I programed the as-built codes. Once again I purged the ABS pump and bled the brakes. That was almost a year ago now and it's worked well 99% of the time. Every once in a while, the ABS system will kick in during firm braking, but I attribute that to the mis-matched tires that I have on my Expy. The tires are all the same 275/55R20 size, but different brands and in various stages of wear. I'm saving up for a 3/2 ReadyLift and larger tires in the next few months. I also debated whether or not to use just the hydraulic side or the electric side, but each time I used the whole assembly. I still have the defective one, which I assume has a bad hydraulic side.

I appreciate the response Dustin!

I've been having this problem for about two years already. In that period I've replaced twice the electronic side only. First time it worked for about an year and then started having intermediate problems with eventually becoming permanent. The second time worked for less then a month before becoming intermediate again. I only have the code when weather is cold. Summer time no code. It also changes with humidity, when it's drier it might work fine.
I've been replacing only the electronic controller because the code is for pump circuit fault and it made me think that the problem should be only within the electronic side. Now that it has happened again, there should be something more to it. If it's the hydraulic side, what puzzles me is why it would work for months when I replace only the electronic controller? Then start acting up and eventually becomes permanent.

I wonder if there could be a problem with wiring somewhere that fries up the module with time.

 

[Dustin Gebhardt]

Maybe your hydraulic side is sticking when the weather gets cold? Since the ABS system runs a diagnostic check at start up, it could be triggering a code during cold weather if something is sticking.

 

[tommyddsr]

I had to do this on my Hyundai Tucson. Pistons were sticking in the mechanical pump side. Front driver side brake would lock up on first pump. Pick and Pull part, $85, shop bleed $125. All fixed and better than $2100 part only from Hyundai. For the cost and frustration I would replace the whole unit as the common failure is the mechanical side and it's just a lot of work to sperate them.

 

[radevv]

Thank you for suggestions guys!
I will replace the whole unit and will report back.

 

[Underdog66]

Thank you for suggestions guys!
I will replace the whole unit and will report back.

I know this post is from last year, but I am having a similar issue.
How did the repair go?
Is it possible that there is an electrical short in the wiring harness? I tried a different ABS control module but it did NOT fix the issue.

 

[Dustin Gebhardt]

So far, so good. I’ve had zero issues over the past year.

Did you reprogram the as-built data? Do you have a way to monitor reported wheel speed like ForScan? Did you replace the hydraulic and electric portions of the pump?

I finally bought the flare nut wrenches, BTW.

 

[Underdog66]

So far, so good. I’ve had zero issues over the past year.

Did you reprogram the as-built data? Do you have a way to monitor reported wheel speed like ForScan? Did you replace the hydraulic and electric portions of the pump?

I finally bought the flare nut wrenches, BTW.

I did not reprogram the as-built. What I did, which probably didn't really do anything, was to plug the 'new' junkyard control module into the truck. I started the truck and the warning lights/message came right back. Before doing anything I checked the pins on the wire harness as outlined by Ford to determine if it was a short in the harness verses a bad module/pump. I thought that I could determine for SURE it was the module/pump by just plugging the replacement module/pump in. I know that would be too simple, right?

Yes, I have ForScan and measured the wheel speed sensors. While the data wasn't wildly erratic, there were as slight lag/variance in the right front sensor data. I have a grinding noise noise coming from that same area. I noticed the brake pads were dragging, so I replaced the caliper FIRST. The noise was/is still there. I did the wheel hub test, holding the tire at noon & six and also at 9 & 3, but didn't notice any play. Against my better judgment I replaced that wheel hub. A friend said it STILL could be a faulty hub without any play. I know now that he was wrong.

This issue is just crazy trying to narrow down. With the number of these vehicles manufactured over the last 25 years, not including the F150's, it seems like there would be some clear cut testing and solutions. It seems even professional mechanics are baffled by ABS brake systems.

I've read numerous articles, forum posts and watched HOURS of YouTube videos on this subject.