About a month ago I bought my first Expedition. It's. 22 Limited. The ride is a little rough. Now the dealership to certify it put on some super cheap tires. So I'm thinking the ride will smooth when I put the correct rated tire on. They put a much higher speed rating on so it's a harder compound. Does anybody know if you can add the CCD? When I go to the Ford parts website to look at replacing shocks the only option that comes up for my VIN number is CCD in the front, but I have looked and the shocks don't look anything like the ones on the website. So it makes me wonder if they've replaced the shocks but didn't put those on to save money. I would think if you didn't replace them when it had it before you'd throw a code.
Can I add CCD or take it off?
- Thread starter moonlitj
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So a higher speed rated tire doesn't mean its a harder compound, they typically tend to be a little softer for more grip. A harder compound also wouldn't mean it would automatically ride rougher, sidewall stiffness is what causes a harsher ride. The load range index on a tire will typically equate to a stiffer sidewall and a harsher ride. The higher the load range the stiffer the sidewall.
If your vin comes up with the CCD shocks then you have the CCD shocks. If the dealership were to remove them, you would have a fault light on the dash and a ton of notifications in your dash display. Look for an electrical wire coming off the shocks and connecting into a harness, it will be noticeable. Did you receive the window sticker with the vehicle?
If your vin comes up with the CCD shocks then you have the CCD shocks. If the dealership were to remove them, you would have a fault light on the dash and a ton of notifications in your dash display. Look for an electrical wire coming off the shocks and connecting into a harness, it will be noticeable. Did you receive the window sticker with the vehicle?
I double and triple checked and mine are not the CCD shocks. I have no wire or the the part that sticks out the side. Its weird that normal shocks don't show up on Ford parts site for my VIN. I do know from experience and working in the tire industry that a 30k V rated tire will ride a little rougher then a 60k H rated. But I also get it has 22in wheels. All my other SUVs has 20's. So I might just buy a set of them and see how that works. I was just hoping someone knew if you could plug and play a set of CCD but I bet I don't even have a plug.I would have to pull the wheel to look.
That's what I am seeing. I think I have a big decision to make. Do I buy the 20s with new pirelli that came of an f150 or do I put new name brand tires on the 22's. Then decided if I do Bilsteins that I have read about here.
GixxerJasen
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Smaller wheels are the way to go. My ride on 18's is so much smoother than the old 22's.
I'm not totally convinced on the CCD being the end all be all. I'd think if you invested in a quality aftermarket suspension system that you could be as good, if not better than the CCD. I'd be looking that route than trying to figure out how to implement CCD. Don't get me wrong, my CCD suspension is nice, but not something I'd rave about.
I'm not totally convinced on the CCD being the end all be all. I'd think if you invested in a quality aftermarket suspension system that you could be as good, if not better than the CCD. I'd be looking that route than trying to figure out how to implement CCD. Don't get me wrong, my CCD suspension is nice, but not something I'd rave about.
Ccds best quality is the option to choose how you want your truck to feel, soft or stiff. I will admit, it's not a better substitute than air springs, and it can't overcome the antiquated frame these trucks ride on.
OP needs to take a closer look at his shocks. According to the 2022 order guide, the 22s on the limited he has can only come with CCD. Look at page 21 of the guide.
Front struts will look like the photos in the link below. From the outside you want see any difference to a normal strut, you’ll need to turn one of your wheels and look behind it.
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Front struts will look like the photos in the link below. From the outside you want see any difference to a normal strut, you’ll need to turn one of your wheels and look behind it.
Motorcraft JL1Z18124D Motorcraft Shocks and Struts | Summit Racing
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Ccd is an option on limited with 22s for my22, it's not standard. From what I remember, most limited didn't have ccd unless it was ordered that way. It is more possible than not the OP had got a used limited without ccd. The only way to verify is it he can pull up his window sticker and it's in the option list.
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Yeah it's not on the window sticker and here is a photo of the shocks. I have a mess of options but that isn't listed. It's just weird that the VIN says it does. These forms have given me lots to consider. I think I will start making some changes in 18k miles when the bumper to bumper runs out. Also found a guy selling the black factory 20s from an f150 with almost new tires. So might go that route also. Thanks everyone.
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GixxerJasen
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Now if only you could select it independent of a drive mode. THAT would be nice.
GixxerJasen
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You'll likely have to trim the rear axles to get the centercaps to fit. Not a bit deal, I'm running F150 Tremor wheels and had to do the trimming too.
Left Coast Geek
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IMHO the biggest contribution to rough riding is the higher air pressure that lower profile tires require. My 18s run 35 psi, the 22s ran 39 psi I'm touring Mexico right now with a small travel trailer and super happy I'm on 18s with all the bad roads and "topes"
+1. Facts.
CCD / MagneRide won't save a 22in wheel from being damaged / bent from a pothole strike like the taller sidewall on an 18in wheel would.
I am thinking the 20s will help a lot. My 07 Yukon XL rode great and had 20s. Crazy that the ne platinum runs better then the king ranch. I thought they had the same suspension.
Even though my exp is quite a bit older I am going to chime in. I have an "11 xlt el. When i bought it a year ago it had a set of LT 275/70 18s. The ride was a bit harsh, every bump felt hard, in bumpy corners it felt like it was side hopping sometimes. Tires were worn and finally replaced them yesterday, taking it back to the oem P rated 275 65 18s 116T with a highway tread. Drove it almost 100 miles today. It was like night and day. None of that jostling and feeling of side hops. Stiffer (and in your case shorter also) sidewalls are your issue. If you can go to the 20's with a tire that will get you the same overall diameter. That xtra 2 inches of flex can change it alot (in my case it was moving to a lighter flexier sidewall).
I know part of the problem is the cheap tires. In my experience, a good set of tires can make all the difference in ride quality. Good tires for 22-in rim cost about $250 to $350 depending on the brand. These tires from the dealership are 180 my cost. And they don't even sell you these in their quick lane because they're so cheap. They're only 25 to 30,000, mi tire. I think it's what they throw on their vehicles so they can say it has new tires when on the lot. The good news is that the 20-in rims with comparable size tire is super close. It's even a stock configuration. I think I found a guy that will sell me 20-in rims with brand new tires on them are about the same cost as buying new tires for the 22s. And discount tire has this cool tire size calculator to tell you the difference from what you have to what you're going to.
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Mr Big
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If you have 22s, Michelin Defenders will make all the difference. Very smooth ride.
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