Sosaeh Waukechon
Member
so I have a 06 that I just did a cat delete on it sounds good but runs kinda funny now could a tuner help? Need a few suggestions has a rebuilt motor and the trans was replaced but it doesn't have the "go" it used to
Cat delete
- Thread starter Sosaeh Waukechon
- Start date
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Trainmaster
Old School Member
Did a "Cat delete"? Does that mean you just took out the converters?
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Kryo-Genik
Well-Known Member
GAINMOB
Full Access Members
have to keep the 02 sensors and have to place them in the right area on the cats thats left or u will have issues...he prob scrapped them too
Yes. There is also "test circuit" that can be built with a capacitor and resistor....
steelnewfie
Full Access Members
I find that odd. I did a cat delete and nothing but good resulted. Better power, fuel economy, torque...Engine computer didn't mind it at all. I'd be willing to bet you have other problems. I do have a tune but the benefits from deleting/replacing the cats was easily felt beforehand. Really made her glide well too. I never thought it would impact zero throttle OD glide.... but it did. Mine only had pinholes left for flow. Like a big cone inside the cats. Poster you have replaced many parts on your powertrain. Plugs, Coils should be on your list if not done yet. Clean your MAF and IAC too. Fuel, air filters, fuel sending unit. Vacuum test where possible to check for leaks. Are what most do.
Sosaeh Waukechon
Member
Sorry guys been busy and haven't checked this for awhile. The problem turned out being a cracked spark plug i wasn't aware of because they were changed out about 2000 miles prior. Shes running pretty good no except for the ball joints need to be replaced thats what I get for running 35's I guess
Did you delete the rear 2 or all 4? I want to delete my rears for the sound. I was wondering if there's a noticable power/torque increase from deleting the rear ones only. From what I've read there shouldn't be any error codes or drivability issues.
Trainmaster
Old School Member
Taking out anything ahead of the downstream oxygen sensors should give you a code. Those last sensors are there to monitor the efficiency of the converters. They may retard the timing if they sense a malfunctioning converter; not sure what action they take, if any, if the exhaust starts smogging, but it would be logical that they try to reduce emissions in some way that could restrict your performance.
Replacing the sensors with a resistor shouldn't do anything. You may fool the computer into thinking the sensor's heater is working, but the sensor's element would have improper output because they produce a variable voltage when exposed to different mixtures. A steady output would throw a code. That's why they are there.
I never did this, so this is all based on my understand of how these things work and I can be all wrong.
I'd do some real good Ford emissions research before I make the switch, and be real wary of some stuff on Internet forums.
Replacing the sensors with a resistor shouldn't do anything. You may fool the computer into thinking the sensor's heater is working, but the sensor's element would have improper output because they produce a variable voltage when exposed to different mixtures. A steady output would throw a code. That's why they are there.
I never did this, so this is all based on my understand of how these things work and I can be all wrong.
I'd do some real good Ford emissions research before I make the switch, and be real wary of some stuff on Internet forums.
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Adding the resistor and capacitor circuit to the down stream cat efficiency sensor fools the ECM into thinking the cat is there and working properly by smoothing out the voltage wave form from the sensor to the ECM and not throwing a code. Has nothing to do with the heater side of the sensor. The up stream O2 sensor will still send proper signals the ECM.
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