Catch-can question

[creef14]

Anyone find their catch can threads extremely tight?

I always only hand tighten the actual can part but every time I need to empty it, its like it was tightened by the hands of Thor. Today I was literally bending the bracket trying to get it to turn, before it finally came loose. I like to believe I'm as super strong as any one, but this thing is always super tough to take out.

I thought about placing a little bit of grease on the threads but I also don't know if I want to loosen it that much.

Or is this just par for the course? this my first catch-can after all...

 

[chuck s]

What can? Just checked my JLT can (after reading this note). I dismount the bracket with a little ratcheting 10mm wrench. Can twisted off by hand. Tight, but came off.

Can was full. Gotta see if I can find the last time I checked it.

-- Chuck

 

[creef14]

the can is the bottom part, that screws off and actually catches the stuff

 

[chuck s]

Again, what can? Mine is a LHT. See my revised note above. There are probably several since this is an aftermarket part.

-- Chuck

 

[creef14]

I have JLT catch can. I haven't heard of anyone using a different brand.

 

[Langer]

@creef14 mine is pretty tough sometimes, nature of the beast with how much heat goes through there?

 

[mquick5]

Geesh this reminds me to empty mine, I guess I need to start keeping a log on when I empty it.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[chuck s]

My last can dump was scheduled for July 10 but there's no indication in my notes that I did it. Scheduled time before that was April 10. Pretty sure I did at least one of them.

I just set a reminder to check it again in two months.

-- Chuck

 

[Boostedbus]

I run the RXP catch can. The pros are that it has a easy opening quarter turn valve at the bottom to drain it without removal. And it holds a lot more volume and only catches oil not water because it’s a oil separator also which keeps the volume down. The cons are it’s more expensive to buy and a harder install.

 

[Jamo]

What are you guys catching in your cans? Sounds bad. Is this an Eco problem? I have a '14 5.4 and I see most of the above are '17's. I like a clean can too...

 

[chuck s]

Positive Crankcase Ventilation burns contaminates in the engine. Vapors like oil, fuel, and water in the crankcase are sent back to be burned. The carburetor (remember those?) or port injection sprays fuel and this vapor onto the intake valves where the fuel (a powerful solvent) serves to keep the backs of the intake valves clean. Direct injection sprays it directly into the cylinder and the contaminates in the intake air can build up on the backs of the intake valves. A catch can filters out much of this contamination which reduces valve deposits.

Your 5.4 uses port injection making a catch can unnecessary. The EcoBoost engines started out with port injection and changed to direct injection for better engine management. The valve deposits started at this time causing "The sky is falling!" videos on the internet. The new Expedition 3.5 EB engines (2018?) use a combination of direct and port injection making a catch can unnecessary. The F150 got the dual injection engine a year or two before our Expeditions.

I'm not convinced these deposits will cause catastrophic engine damage but am hedging the bet with the LHT catch can. The crap that's in there every time can't be good.

My catch can was literally full of oil with a smattering of watery liquid on the bottom. When I dumped the can several months ago the liquid looked like chocolate milk, it was very watery.

I installed a dual catch can system on my little S2000 (port injection) engine out of curiosity and in two years have not needed to empty it. Only remains on the car because (1) I'm too lazy to deplumb it and (2) all the cool kids have them.

-- Chuck

 

[DF5.4]

Mine is usually tight when I go to empty it. I have a small strap wrench I use.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

 

[Boostedbus]

Positive Crankcase Ventilation burns contaminates in the engine. Vapors like oil, fuel, and water in the crankcase are sent back to be burned. The carburetor (remember those?) or port injection sprays fuel and this vapor onto the intake valves where the fuel (a powerful solvent) serves to keep the backs of the intake valves clean. Direct injection sprays it directly into the cylinder and the contaminates in the intake air can build up on the backs of the intake valves. A catch can filters out much of this contamination which reduces valve deposits.

Your 5.4 uses port injection making a catch can unnecessary. The EcoBoost engines started out with port injection and changed to direct injection for better engine management. The valve deposits started at this time causing "The sky is falling!" videos on the internet. The new Expedition 3.5 EB engines (2018?) use a combination of direct and port injection making a catch can unnecessary. The F150 got the dual injection engine a year or two before our Expeditions.

I'm not convinced these deposits will cause catastrophic engine damage but am hedging the bet with the LHT catch can. The crap that's in there every time can't be good.

My catch can was literally full of oil with a smattering of watery liquid on the bottom. When I dumped the can several months ago the liquid looked like chocolate milk, it was very watery.

I installed a dual catch can system on my little S2000 (port injection) engine out of curiosity and in two years have not needed to empty it. Only remains on the car because (1) I'm too lazy to deplumb it and (2) all the cool kids have them.

-- Chuck

There is still a benefit for a catch can on the 2018 and up Ecoboosts and that is the intercooler. The addition of port injection does help wash the intake valves but does nothing for stopping the intercooler from getting oil logged.The port injected naturally aspirated 5.4 (no turbo no intercooler) doesn’t have as much need for catch cans as the Ecoboosts. Then again people without cans can do induction flushes and drill and drain intercoolers when needed also. I choose having a catch can.

 

[Jamo]

Thanks for the explanation...very well done.

I have a 1953 GM PD 4104 with a 6-71 Detroit, and we run "slobber tubes" out of the airbox to drain cans (2) to catch blow by oil and what ever else might be good to get out of the box ahead of the blower (2 cycle engine). My catch cans are two plastic coffee cans hanging on bungees behind the rear bumper. Pretty high tech, eh? They work...

 

[lbv150]

First any engine with a PCV system will benefit with a catch can. Second yes the JLT can be difficult to unscrew if tightened too tightly. I empty mine every 1000-1500 miles and only tighten the can until the O ring just seals...comes off easy and no vacuum leaks.

 

[lbv150]

First any engine with a PCV system will benefit with a catch can. Second yes the JLT can be difficult to unscrew if tightened too tightly. I empty mine every 1000-1500 miles and only tighten the can until the O ring just seals...comes off easy and no vacuum leaks.

 

[mquick5]

Anyone else getting tired of emptying the little 3oz can? Well I just ordered the 6oz can for mine. It should hopefully last in between oil changes. Especially since I'm lucky to get 3k before needing a oil change.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[3tonsoffun]

Anyone else getting tired of emptying the little 3oz can? Well I just ordered the 6oz can for mine. It should hopefully last in between oil changes. Especially since I'm lucky to get 3k before needing a oil change.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

You should only need to empty it twice between oil changes. I do 5000-7000 mile FS oil changes and only empty it halfway through and then the day I change the oil. Anything more than that is excessive

 

[lbv150]

I can't delete this post LOL

 

[3tonsoffun]

I can't delete this post LOL

Huh?