Chasing P0171 and P0175 Simultaneously

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Drae

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I need a little direction with my 03 Expedition 5.4 2V with 198K miles. Maybe someone has experienced something similar because it seems rare to have both P0171 and P0175 at the same time. This also triggers a misfire on cylinder 6 and it will give the P0316 also which is 1 or more misfire shortly after start up. The engine will Idle rough but will smooth out with rpm.

First of all it started as only P0171 so I checked for vacuum leaks first and found the vacuum hose to the PCV valve was soft and collapsed. I replaced that part of the hose and put a new OEM PCV valve in and nothing changed. I inspected all vacuum connections and sprayed carb cleaner for idle changes and nothing changed but it triggered the P0306 and P0175 codes afterwards. I pulled the number 6 coil and plug out to check and plug was normal with no fouling or fuel smell. Then I swapped a known working coil to see if it changed anything it didn't.

Next I changed all 4 O2 sensors first with no change. Then I found out the MAF readings were reading way too low and changed it also. The MAF reading is good now but there isn't any change in idle. The STFTs are way off on both banks so just started unplugging injectors and ignition coils on both banks to see if idle changed. All of bank 1 injectors and coil packs made tbe ifle a little rougher. Bank 2 coils and injectors did nothing at all. I found 1 video where a guy said he had both codes also and started with the MAF sensor. It didn't resolve his issue either and it ended up being a timing job that resolved the issue.

I've owned it 10 years now and it had around 102K miles when I got it so I doubt it's been done. It's had the 2 second chain slap on startup here and there for a while so it's possible I need to this as well. The only thing stopping me from just jumping on the timing job is the bank 2 ignition and fuel injector problem.I know timing can affect this fuel and spark but I'd hate to do the timing job and find out it was something else after doing that much work. It's literally the last resolution if I can't find anything else. Some known issues that's been there for a little while is a small exhaust leak in the Y pipe connection and one of the catalytic coverters had a rattle for a while but went away. No loss in power as I've been through clogged cats in this vehicle before and know how that feels.

I apologize for the long post but trying to give as much info as possible for some suggestions.
 

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Drae

Drae

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Just did a fuel pressure test
Key on engine off - 46 to 47 PSI
Engine running - 52 to 53 PSI
Fuel pressure regulator may be the culprit?
 

Hamfisted

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No, looks like your fuel pressure is fine. With the motor running you can pull the red vacuum line off the fuel rail pressure dampener and see if you notice any difference in idle quality or short term fuel trim. The actual fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump assembly. That thing on the fuel rail is a pressure dampener. Really the best way to find the vacuum leak is with a smoke test. It could end up being the intake manifold gasket or some other spot that doesn't really jump out at you without smoke.

Mechanics Smoke Test Machine on Amazon







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Drae

Drae

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Thank you for your response! Yeah I pulled the vacuum line off of the dampener and it doesn't change anything or smell like fuel. I thought an intake gasket leak would catch the carb spray but it's possible enough is not getting to one of the ports. I guess I'll try to get a smoke test from a shop to make sure it's done right. What do you think about the idle not changing from unplugging the injectors and coils on bank 2?
 

neilh

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In intake manifolds always fail at some point. A smoke test will have difficulty working on your intake manifold. Cold weather seems to trigger the failure. The engines get warm then cold...Then the plastic fails...We have become rare on this site...Gen 2!
 
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Drae

Drae

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Thanks for your response. I replaced the intake manifold about 8 years ago because of the crack around the thermostat. It leaked water into the bank 2 cylinders and caused a lot of damage including misfires which lead to bad catalytic converters and somehow took out the IAC valve. I replaced it with an OEM Ford intake as the previous owner replaced it at one time with a Dorman. You may be on to something but that would definitely piss me off if this one is cracked. I just pulled the ground off the battery to reset the KAM because I didn't after replacing the O2 sensors and MAF. If that doesn't work, I'll put fresh fuel in it to see if I possibly got bad fuel. If that doesn't work, I'm going to address my exhaust issue then look for a vacuum leak within the intake manifold afterwards. I'll report back.
 

Vincent Vega

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Interesting problem. This is a new one for me. I would check for vacuum leaks using a smoke machine. Lots of 20 year old trucks have developed leaks in the vac lines, elbows, etc. In addition, These engines like to warp the intake manifolds. you can try squirting water on the seam between the manifold and the heads, and observe if the idle changes (as a result of sucking the water in). You can also use a smoke machine to track down almost any vacuum leak. I actually made one from a paint can, tubing, etc, and it worked amazing for abotu $35 (see youtube). If not a vac leak then yes, timing could be the problem - download Forscan and check the timing. Seems also possible something is wrong with the fuel rail or the injectors - check each injector for visible leaks (o-rings) and for electrical resistance, you can also send the injectors and fuel rail for professional cleaning (There is a place in Torrance, CA that I used, and many other places). Less possible is a control problem caused by a bad computer, which would require an electrical diagnosis (see ScannerDanner on Youtube).
 
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Drae

Drae

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Thanks for the insight! I will check out those channels and try those tactics to see what comes up.
 

pitdexion

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Got spark on non contributing bank? Throwing it out there but some engines will idle fine missing a complete bank(5.3 gm).
 
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Drae

Drae

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I pulled number 6 plug a minute ago and has definitely been running rich on bank 2 as it was black but not wet. I replaced it and it seems to have smoothed out a little bit. I put a quarter tank of gas and fuel treatment and it and nothing really changed. While driving it, it has plenty of power but I can tell by the exhaust note it's still misfiring. Next step is a smoke test then I'll replace the plugs if I don't find any leaks. Then I'll move on to the exhaust.
 
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Drae

Drae

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I have an update after doing my smoke test. The little cap on the IAC Valve was leaking smoke out badly and the EGR Valve was leaking smoke badly as well. I've replaced the IAC Valve before but never the EGR Valve. I know I could probably get away with just replacing the gasket but I'll feel better eliminating a near future potential problem. I made a short video showing the smoke test.
 

Vincent Vega

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I have an update after doing my smoke test. The little cap on the IAC Valve was leaking smoke out badly and the EGR Valve was leaking smoke badly as well. I've replaced the IAC Valve before but never the EGR Valve. I know I could probably get away with just replacing the gasket but I'll feel better eliminating a near future potential problem. I made a short video showing the smoke test.
Good find. EGRs will develop leaks like that. Did it fix the misfire?
 
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Drae

Drae

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Unfortunately no. It idles a little better but it still gives me the P0171 and P0175 codes. I dropped my extension and socket on the backside of the engine and while trying to retrieve it, I stumbled upon water leaking from what I believe to be the intake manifold gasket on the passenger side. I have been losing water for a little while from an area I couldn't see on the backside of the engine but thought it may have been a freeze plug possibly. So I ordered new intake gaskets and will be removing the intake manifold tomorrow. I really hope it's just the gaskets and not a damaged intake manifold. There was no smoke coming from that area at all during the test though. I'll eventually catch the problem. I don't care if the whole top of the engine needs new parts. It's going to be fixed. Bright side is I don't have too many more things to replace
 

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If you do end up pulling the intake manifold off, make sure to remove the crossflow off the front of the intake and check for de-lamination of the mating surface, and install a new set of gaskets as well. Very common to leak from that crossflow mating surface, and into the valley, and out the rear of the valley.
It's normal for the IAC valve to pass smoke from the vent cap. Check to make sure your EGR valve holds a vacuum when you apply it. Like use a vacuum pump with a gauge on it, and just make sure it does hold one.


Intake Manifold Crossflow Gasket Set at Rock Auto

Intake Manifold Gasket Set at Rock Auto





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RoadRunner42

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I know you said you checked the vacuum hose to the PCV, but did you try replacing the entire PCV assembly? I've had the same codes, twice, and it's been because of either the boot on the PCV, of the straight rubber piece that goes to the back of the engine. Once I literally tied a piece of a rubber glove around the leak to get me going. It did cause a misfire as well. Part Number: 2L3Z-6C324-AA on my 5.4 EB.
 

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