freddy aguila
Member
Saturday morning at the shop for a complete chrome delete wrap. Stay tuned
Chrome delete
- Thread starter freddy aguila
- Start date
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freddy aguila
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Finished!! 6 hours later!
freddy aguila
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freddy aguila
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Front and side
StealthyBulldog
Full Access Members
Ha, I did mine today as well! We'll see how long it lasts, I've never wrapped anything before. Wasn't too bad, except under the side mirrors. Unfortunately I had washed the trim area last night (didn't wash the whole vehicle which was dumb, just didn't have time) and dried it. Well there I am tucking vinyl in under the trim piece and the squeegee comes out wet! So I did my best to dry, but not sure if the adhesive on the vinyl will hold as well.
AKentPhoto
Full Access Members
Sub'd! Perfect timing! I have been considering both routes... Got my first quote yesterday.
@freddy aguila
If you don't mind me asking what did they charged you? Just trying to get a base line some most of the cost is labor. What color and brand did you go with?
@StealthyBulldog
What wrap did you use? Other than the water it was pretty straight forward? Any tips?
@freddy aguila
If you don't mind me asking what did they charged you? Just trying to get a base line some most of the cost is labor. What color and brand did you go with?
@StealthyBulldog
What wrap did you use? Other than the water it was pretty straight forward? Any tips?
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StealthyBulldog
Full Access Members
@AKentPhoto I used 3M 2080 g12 (gloss black) . HIGHLY recommend the 2080 vs the 1080 if you choose 3M, mostly because the 2080 has a protective film over it that you remove AFTER you have finished squeegeeing and tucking it in. It amazing how it protects it from scratches! If the mirrors were easy to take off I definitely would do that. Maybe they are easy, but I looked at it for 2 minutes and said screw it! Haha. If this doesn't hold up, I will 100% look at the cost of getting it painted, or seeing what a pro would charge. It is amazing how much better it looks, especially on a white Stealth, it SHOULD have been done factory.
Tips, have a heat gun and use it sparingly to lightly stretch and pull inside door jamb to not have any creases. When at the end you have the vinyl looking like a left bracket [ so put a very low and slight heat to it while pulling straight, then tuck around into the door jamb. I also used a very slight pull and heat on the rear quarter top curve. The first piece I did was the passenger rear quarter and I didn't put any heat to it and it was really good except two tiny creases right on top. I left it thinking I would see how the rest of it went and if I had enough material left I would redo at the end. When I finished them all I decided I could live with it! Haha, mostly because the other side I was trying using heat and it took 3 attempts, both fails were heat gun related.
First try I did the rounded corner perfectly, then got a little over confident and pulled to much while adding heat in the door jamb and the vinyl tore right at the outside edge, so had nothing to wrap the 1/8 of an inch chrome in the jamb.
Second try I was pulling at the rounded corner, paying too much attention to the top of the trim and pulling and heating that I got it laid perfectly around the top, but hadn't left enough film on the bottom to tuck under trim. So on the third try when I got both the jamb and the corner perfect and tucked and found water......i was a little (okay, a LOT!) mad!
Sorry this is so long, just trying to give some insight from a first timer! Oh, and definitely mask / tape around painted areas, for a couple reasons, first is because the vinyl won't stick very well to it so it makes it WAY easier to tuck, and I taped around the underside of my mirror or other parts that I was going to be running a blade on, protects them a bit. Oh and buy one of the "vinyl tool kits" from Amazon or something, it'll have a 30 degree blade and a felt edged squeegee, and also a tool for cutting the roll (kind of like the gift wrap paper cutter that has a blade embedded into it that you just run along it) I used it for cutting the large roll into strips.
Hope you or someone finds something in this useful!
Tips, have a heat gun and use it sparingly to lightly stretch and pull inside door jamb to not have any creases. When at the end you have the vinyl looking like a left bracket [ so put a very low and slight heat to it while pulling straight, then tuck around into the door jamb. I also used a very slight pull and heat on the rear quarter top curve. The first piece I did was the passenger rear quarter and I didn't put any heat to it and it was really good except two tiny creases right on top. I left it thinking I would see how the rest of it went and if I had enough material left I would redo at the end. When I finished them all I decided I could live with it! Haha, mostly because the other side I was trying using heat and it took 3 attempts, both fails were heat gun related.
First try I did the rounded corner perfectly, then got a little over confident and pulled to much while adding heat in the door jamb and the vinyl tore right at the outside edge, so had nothing to wrap the 1/8 of an inch chrome in the jamb.
Second try I was pulling at the rounded corner, paying too much attention to the top of the trim and pulling and heating that I got it laid perfectly around the top, but hadn't left enough film on the bottom to tuck under trim. So on the third try when I got both the jamb and the corner perfect and tucked and found water......i was a little (okay, a LOT!) mad!
Sorry this is so long, just trying to give some insight from a first timer! Oh, and definitely mask / tape around painted areas, for a couple reasons, first is because the vinyl won't stick very well to it so it makes it WAY easier to tuck, and I taped around the underside of my mirror or other parts that I was going to be running a blade on, protects them a bit. Oh and buy one of the "vinyl tool kits" from Amazon or something, it'll have a 30 degree blade and a felt edged squeegee, and also a tool for cutting the roll (kind of like the gift wrap paper cutter that has a blade embedded into it that you just run along it) I used it for cutting the large roll into strips.
Hope you or someone finds something in this useful!
AKentPhoto
Full Access Members
Thank you!! Exactly what I'm looking for. I haven't wrapped anything before... 
I figure straight lines with curves at the ends are a good place to start. What tape did you use to protect the body? Painters tape?
I figure straight lines with curves at the ends are a good place to start. What tape did you use to protect the body? Painters tape?
StealthyBulldog
Full Access Members
YesThank you!! Exactly what I'm looking for. I haven't wrapped anything before...
freddy aguila
Member
Looks good for the first time. Mine was done by a wrapping company. I saw the 3m box but not sure is he used 1080 or 2080. The trucks looks 100% better with the chrome delete.
StealthyBulldog
Full Access Members
Of course the wife comes out and says "looks good, now you need to do something about that emblem".
AKentPhoto
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PlastiDip if you want to go matte... Could at least get the chrome and peel the center part off. Just thinking out loud.
StealthyBulldog
Full Access Members
Oh, and I'm sure for a professional it wouldn't matter much between the 1080 vs 2080 since they will know what they are doing so less likely to scratch it up, but for a newbie like me, I sure was scared all those scratches and marks would wreck it! Then I peeled off the protective layer and it was flawless!!
Are you blacking our the blue Ford symbol?
Looks great so far.
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Looks awesome! Nothing looks as bad ass as proper scratch free gloss black... nothing looks worse than 99% of most people’s black cars lol I’m guessing you’re the 1% for the duration of ownership.. that’s dedication!
freddy aguila
Member
No keeping the ford emblems stock for now. May purchase blacked out emblems on ebay.
AKentPhoto
Full Access Members
Wow, that looks killer...
Robert McMillan
Full Access Members
His truck is filthy though?
