CODE P0452 READS IN MY SCANNER

[StibbyWonder]

If you're good with a soldering iron, you can replace the relay and save a lot of money. You need a solder sucker tool to remove the solder once you heat it. You should be able to buy the tool and new relay for 1/10th of the cost of a new fuse box assembly. Take your time when disassembling the box. I used a piece of cardboard to transfer my fuses over to so I knew there position. Take note of orientation of the small metal clips inside; it's possible to install them backwards. I replaced my relay 10 years ago (3/20/2016).

Also, is this video similar on how you repair yours? -> https://youtu.be/3sAeIJ6-t1Q?si=X3hmBX59ghYTCoFE

 

[Broncoholic]

Also, is this video similar on how you repair yours? -> https://youtu.be/3sAeIJ6-t1Q?si=X3hmBX59ghYTCoFE

First 5 minutes replaces the relay, he's fixing something else after that. He uses a de-soldering gun. I bought a cheap solder sucker off Amazon for under $10 and used that with my soldering iron to remove the solder (heat and suck).

 

[whtbronco]

Exactly as Broncoholic explains, just get a small tube of electrical flux as well. It helps ensure a good clean connection with the new solder. It only takes a little bit of flux.

Plumbing flux will ruin the circuit board, it must be electrical flux.

 

[StibbyWonder]

If you're good with a soldering iron, you can replace the relay and save a lot of money. You need a solder sucker tool to remove the solder once you heat it. You should be able to buy the tool and new relay for 1/10th of the cost of a new fuse box assembly. Take your time when disassembling the box. I used a piece of cardboard to transfer my fuses over to so I knew their position. Take note of orientation of the small metal clips inside; it's possible to install them backwards. I replaced my relay 10 years ago (3/20/2016).

Hi I did another test again using my multimeter. Please see photos below:


This is the reading when the engine is running I plut the red cable to the Yellowgreen wire and ground the black one to test the DC voltage and it is 14.1V



And these 2 photos show before the engine starts, and it is during the priming when the fuel pump turns on it send 12.2V and down to 6.1V then start the engine but the problem I encounter it is a long crank and almost the engine at first is going to die, so I think the fuse assembly is fine only the fuel pump is weak or near to dying.

What do you think? Your expert inputs is highly appreciated.

 

[acampinoob]

Since it started last time, it sounds like the pump is OK.

In automotive wiring, 6V when it should be 12V indicates there is a high resistance other than the pump in the circuit. The relay and the pump are in series and you tested in the middle of the two and saw half the voltage, that would mean there is a high resistance upstream of where you are measuring (or in the fusebox). For now, you can use a jumper wire to get where you are going (remove it when you aren't driving) and then pull the fuse box and replace the relay. A high resistance can also be caused by corroded wires or pest damage, though this is less likely.

If the pump were bad and grounding out, it would be blowing the fuse. If the pump were bad and the motor was open electrically, the voltage would be 12V where you measured it. Seeing 6V to me is a red flag that the relay has a burnt connection (high resistance).

 

[Broncoholic]

...the problem I encounter it is a long crank and almost the engine at first is going to die...

I used to have a long crank issue when the check valve in my fuel pump failed about 7 years ago. I would have to cycle the key on-off-on to get a proper fuel prime to start on the first try.

I recommend pulling the fuse box to inspect the relay pins on the circuit board. That's free and not hard to do. For my situation, my relay was still working but the solder was bad. I redid the solder and that worked until I was able to buy the relay and solder sucker to replace the bad relay. I'd rather pull the fuse box twice before dropping the fuel tank once!

 

[StibbyWonder]

Yes, thank you guys I'll do the fuse box thing to remove and I will update here with photos after.

 

[StibbyWonder]

Hi guys, a quick update I already removed the whole Fuse Box assembly my problem now is how to remove this layer of bus bars, see photo below:

 

[whtbronco]

I don't remember having to do anything to remove it. Did you remove all the fuses and the relays that plug in? They will hold everything together.

 

[Broncoholic]

Hi guys, a quick update I already removed the whole Fuse Box assembly my problem now is how to remove this layer of bus bars, see photo below:

View attachment 86820

My memory isn't great after 10 years. Flip it over. I bet there are some clips that need to be removed from blades that pass through the circuit board from the bus bars. I'm assuming you remove all of the fuses and removable relays. If you think you've removed everything from the other side, post a pic so we can see.

 

[Broncoholic]

WAIT! The cover on the other side comes off first! I searched my pics from my repair. The 1st pic shows the circuit board still attached to the bus bars. There are blades from the bus bars that pass through the circuit board with clips on them (circled in red in the pic). The clips have to be removed (make note of orientation so you put them back correctly) so you can remove the bus bars and check the solder on the relay pins. The 2nd pic shows the circuit with the clips, bus bars, and fuel pump relay removed. You can see the slots in the circuit board where the blades pass through.

 

[StibbyWonder]

I removed it all, now it seems like the R303 Fuse is fine? See photos below.











so is it safe to assume the R303 relay is fine? Or do you guys now any other multimeter test I can conduct to check if it was really fine internally, externally seems fine to me.

 

[Broncoholic]

I don't have a test procedure for the relay. The pic isn't close enough to clearly see the solder on the pins. Here's a pic of mine when I first pulled it apart. If yours looks anything like that then it's a culprit.

And here's a pic of the corner of the relay where the hot pin is. It's not very obvious.

 

[whtbronco]

Really excellent info and pics @Broncoholic . Your memory is better than mine, I didn't even remember the clips that hold the board into under the front cover.

 

[StibbyWonder]

Thank you @Broncoholic I will look into it I hope my eyes are good

 

[StibbyWonder]

Hi guys! I already put back the fuse box and still didn’t worked. So, I decided to replace the fuel pump and here are the photos of the old one. Now it is 1 click start.

Guys, thank you for all your infos, effort to reply and knowledge you shared with me. I hope this thread will help others encountering the same situation

 

[Broncoholic]

What the what?! Why does your fuel pump have a ponytail? That's some kind of sabotage right there.

 

[Hamfisted]

Yeah. Who would have put hair ( a wig ? ) in your fuel tank ? That took a lot of time and effort. Glad you finally got it sorted out.

 

[StibbyWonder]

Lol my suspect is the strainer from aged of the car and the filter got broken also maybe the gasoline is too old and car not that used much. It is only 65,500 kms

 

[Broncoholic]

65,500 km is crazy low! It's barely past the factor warranty in miles!