KB1LTG
New Member
Hi Guys,
First foray into engine compartment of my wifes 2002 Eddie Bauer Expedition. A "Service Engine Soon" light prompted me to connect my ODB II reader and it returned a "Misfire on Cyl #8". Browsing around here showed that it was most likely the coil;
I first deflated the two front tires to lower the vehicle a few inches, this and standing on a Black & Decker Workmate allowed me good access to the #8 cylinder. I also laid an old moving blanket over the fender to lay on and prevent scratches. After looking at the 7MM hold down bolt and its location I settled on a box end wrench to "Crack" the bolt loose and the found no combination of extensions, wobble heads, etc. would fit in between the fuel rails. However, sliding a 7MM nut driver between the rails allowed me a perfect purchase on the bolt and it easily came out.
The bad COP pulled right out underneath the fuel rails and a quick multimeter test (Connector to spark plug spring) showed zero contuinity (Open) on both pins. The new COP showed 5.5Kohms between each pin and the spark plug spring so I knew for a fact it had opened up inside the casting.
The one tricky part after gettin the new COP in place was getting the little 7MM bolt back into the hole. I found a piece of clear fuel line that fit over the top of the bolt tightly enough to grip it while I guided it into the hole. I also used this piece of tubing from above to "Start" the bolt and pretty much guarantee that I could not place enough torque on it to cross thread it. This worked perfectly and allowed me to screw the bolt nearly all the way in. I have used this same technique to start spark plugs that were in a tight spot and required a nice "Feel" to get started without cross threading.
I finished up with the nut driver and then final tightening was done with the box end 7MM. All in all the process took about 30 minutes. There were a couple of hoses in the way so I gently moved them aside and wired them there with a piece of coat hanger until I was finished.
Hope this helps, I was kind of leery after hearing all of the horror stories about access and problems with these swaps, I found it to be not very bad at all and thought I would share my experience with forum members. Thanks for all of the info I got, by the way. The vehicle runs great now and I am sure the gas mileage will improve! Best Regards,
Jerry
First foray into engine compartment of my wifes 2002 Eddie Bauer Expedition. A "Service Engine Soon" light prompted me to connect my ODB II reader and it returned a "Misfire on Cyl #8". Browsing around here showed that it was most likely the coil;
I first deflated the two front tires to lower the vehicle a few inches, this and standing on a Black & Decker Workmate allowed me good access to the #8 cylinder. I also laid an old moving blanket over the fender to lay on and prevent scratches. After looking at the 7MM hold down bolt and its location I settled on a box end wrench to "Crack" the bolt loose and the found no combination of extensions, wobble heads, etc. would fit in between the fuel rails. However, sliding a 7MM nut driver between the rails allowed me a perfect purchase on the bolt and it easily came out.
The bad COP pulled right out underneath the fuel rails and a quick multimeter test (Connector to spark plug spring) showed zero contuinity (Open) on both pins. The new COP showed 5.5Kohms between each pin and the spark plug spring so I knew for a fact it had opened up inside the casting.
The one tricky part after gettin the new COP in place was getting the little 7MM bolt back into the hole. I found a piece of clear fuel line that fit over the top of the bolt tightly enough to grip it while I guided it into the hole. I also used this piece of tubing from above to "Start" the bolt and pretty much guarantee that I could not place enough torque on it to cross thread it. This worked perfectly and allowed me to screw the bolt nearly all the way in. I have used this same technique to start spark plugs that were in a tight spot and required a nice "Feel" to get started without cross threading.
I finished up with the nut driver and then final tightening was done with the box end 7MM. All in all the process took about 30 minutes. There were a couple of hoses in the way so I gently moved them aside and wired them there with a piece of coat hanger until I was finished.
Hope this helps, I was kind of leery after hearing all of the horror stories about access and problems with these swaps, I found it to be not very bad at all and thought I would share my experience with forum members. Thanks for all of the info I got, by the way. The vehicle runs great now and I am sure the gas mileage will improve! Best Regards,
Jerry
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