Crank no start w/ fuel pressure, spark, compression, help!

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codyhines

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Hey guys I have an 05 5.4 4x4. And I’m at a loss and so confused. It cranks and it cranks healthy. 58ish lbs fuel pressure at rail. I have spark. Checked crank and cam sensors, my plan for tomorrow is to clean the MAF, check the fuel filter for clogged up, and if nothing yet I will take apart my exhaust and see about plugged cats. Fuses good relays good (for the most part I think) It’s a brand new battery also. Any tricks and tips will be greatly appreciated. Starting fluid doesn’t really get it running either. Currently just cranks and skips like it’s about to start. So close!! If I get it running I’ll even pay the person who told me a secret trick to starting it!! Thanks guys.
 

Jon Hedges

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Hey guys I have an 05 5.4 4x4. And I’m at a loss and so confused. It cranks and it cranks healthy. 58ish lbs fuel pressure at rail. I have spark. Checked crank and cam sensors, my plan for tomorrow is to clean the MAF, check the fuel filter for clogged up, and if nothing yet I will take apart my exhaust and see about plugged cats. Fuses good relays good (for the most part I think) It’s a brand new battery also. Any tricks and tips will be greatly appreciated. Starting fluid doesn’t really get it running either. Currently just cranks and skips like it’s about to start. So close!! If I get it running I’ll even pay the person who told me a secret trick to starting it!! Thanks guys.
 

Jon Hedges

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Cody:

I have a 2000 Expy, 5.4 full time AWD, 376k miles.

Same thing happened to me. Turned out to be the gear shift interlock. It sits on the driver side, out-upper side of the transmission case. Find the shift cable and follow it to the interlock. Be sure to take it off (2 8mm bolts) and put it back on in neutral.

Jon
 
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codyhines

codyhines

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Jon:
Doing that right now, will get back to you on how it works. Thank you sir.
 

whtbronco

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The P1000 code is just that it didn't finish the self test. I believe since it didn't start on multiple attempts it couldn't finish the self test and thus threw that code.

With 58lbs of fuel pressure it's not likely fuel related. Though it can't hurt to check the fuel cutoff switch and listen for the pump when you turn the key to on/run before starting it. As you noted check the fuel filter, I think they should be changed every ~30k miles.

There's still quite a few things it could be. You noted you checked the crank and cam sensors. Do you have a scanner that can read the data stream from them? The crank sensor can certainly cause this.

The neutral safety switch can also prevent starting. Have you tried shifting out of and then back into Park? Or try starting in Neutral.

My other thought is have you done any maintenance or repairs recently that may have left a connector not fully seated?
 
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codyhines

codyhines

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No sir no maintenance from me being the new owner. Previous owner was gonna junk it because it stopped starting for them randomly. She said she had the cam sensors replaced and that did nothing, which leads me to believe timing related….? I’m messing with the metal safety switch right now, I have tried starting it in neutral and still nothing. I might just go and get another crank sensor and see if that does anything. And I’ll take apart the rear to get a better look at the inertia switch. Something also seems funky with that….
 

Fastcar

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The P1000 code is just that it didn't finish the self test. I believe since it didn't start on multiple attempts it couldn't finish the self test and thus threw that code.

With 58lbs of fuel pressure it's not likely fuel related. Though it can't hurt to check the fuel cutoff switch and listen for the pump when you turn the key to on/run before starting it. As you noted check the fuel filter, I think they should be changed every ~30k miles.

There's still quite a few things it could be. You noted you checked the crank and cam sensors. Do you have a scanner that can read the data stream from them? The crank sensor can certainly cause this.

The neutral safety switch can also prevent starting. Have you tried shifting out of and then back into Park? Or try starting in Neutral.

My other thought is have you done any maintenance or repairs recently that may have left a connector not fully seated?
The neutral to park shifting has worked numerous times. You may have to slam it into park though.
 
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codyhines

codyhines

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Update, changed fuse box. Started then died and back to no start. Discovered I get fuel to my rail but not my injectors. And I’m unsure on how to go about this besides fuses relays and checking plugs inspecting connection …..
 

whtbronco

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The fuel rail is just a couple metal pipes that carry fuel to the injectors. If you have 58psi of fuel pressure on the rail then the injectors are getting fuel. Maybe they aren't firing though and that's what you meant.

It could be the crank sensor, faulty module, a broken wire that makes contact sometimes or a corroded connector. The list goes on. Do you have something like FORScan or a high end scanner that can read and test sensors and such? That would be immensely helpful and also help prevent throwing parts at a problem hoping for a fix.
 

Hamfisted

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Does it run if you spray starter fluid into the throttle body ? Do you have a Noid test light that you can test for injector signal ? (Plug the noid light into the injector plug...). Your fuel inertia switch is reset right ? ( Little red plunger's down ...) . If it'll run when you spray starter fluid in the throttle body at least you know it's fuel related and a direction to focus.
Fuse #34 is the fuel injectors, PCM, and MAF, so make sure that little booger is good. The 303 relay controls fuel too.

2005 Ford Expedition Fusebox Diagram







.
 
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codyhines

codyhines

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Thanks guys. I will be checking that now that I’m off work. I have a laptop but not the charger or forscan dang it…. I can use a snap l on reader ( it’s what told me the fuel pressure) and check. I got a new fuel filter in it, the old one was muddy…. So maybe it’s blogged in the line? I’m building a portable air tank to blow out from the filter——>where it connects to the fuel rail.
 

highpks

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Hey folks, found this thread since I'm working on what seems to be the same issue on a '05 Expy. I've already replaced the fuel pump driver module (the old one was corroded, but not all the way through) and the passenger side fuse box. Replacing the driver module did nothing. Immediately after replacing the fuse box the truck fired right up and ran great for 2 days, then left me stranded; cranks just fine, endlessly, but does not fire. Original code was P0191 fuel rail pressure sensor circuit range/performance, but that is not there now; no related code at the moment. Tow truck driver was great late last night and got this thing into my (heated) garage! Where should I be looking next?

A couple tests after I first posted:
Green and yellow wire coming from fuse box:
1) Has 12v on it when I turn on the key, still there when cranking
2) Unplugging and running 12v directly to it from the battery, still cranks but won't start

I guess I'm heading to the driver module to do some testing there next...

OK, so I removed the connector to the driver module and jumpered each of the 2 end pins:
1) Verified 12v on the jumpers when the key is on
2) Still cranks but won't start

I guess I'm heading to the fuel pump??? Is there something I can look at before dropping the tank? I don't have a pressure gauge and I'm not sure if there is even a place on this '05 to attach one.
 
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highpks

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I'll have to get some starter fluid, but it's snowing like crazy here right now. Also, won't I have to drop the tank to get to the end of that pink/black connector? If I have to go that far, you're right, I might as well replace the pump.

Edit: So I did have some Mas airflow sensor cleaner and the truck did start with that, but did not continue to run after stopping the spray, so clearly, no fuel.
 
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