Haha, I guess you must have lived in Louisiana to know the local slang. I actually moved from "elek" to Hico because I went to seminary in Ft Worth and now I am pastor at a church near Hico. But yeah, when I have work to be done on a vehicle that I cannot do, I try to wait until I visit family in Alexandria so that I can go to 1st Choice and get it done right.
"Don't try to replace spark plugs!" 2008 Why not?
- Thread starter Robert Gift
- Start date
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Captain Morgan
Full Access Members
All of my college friends graduated from Southwestern. Post grad 1983 - '86 years.
I used to ice skate in the Tandy Center.
I used to ice skate in the Tandy Center.
Robert Gift
Active Member
$329 $parkplug rip-off is not due until 100k
Just learned from Fordealer thathe sparkplug rip-off is not due.
I will plan several applications of the carbon solvent over 24 hours and let it really soak.
Then gently tap the breaker bar with a hammer to hopefully unfreeze their $15.21 plugs.
Thank you for all your advice.
Just learned from Fordealer thathe sparkplug rip-off is not due.
I will plan several applications of the carbon solvent over 24 hours and let it really soak.
Then gently tap the breaker bar with a hammer to hopefully unfreeze their $15.21 plugs.
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To echo what was said on the last page, a lot of people on the F-150 forums claim the air ratchet or impact works very successfully. A lot of guys say to run Seafoam or some similar addative to the last 2 or 3 tanks of fuel prior to doing the change, which theoretically cleans out some of the carbon.
djrainer
Member
Champion vs. Motorcraft
I just read where Champion designed a 1 piece replacement spark plug for the 5.4L 3V Triton engines. Has anyone used this new Champion Plug and if so, what's your opinion? Thanks, Don, Phoenix, 2007 EXPY-LMTD
I just read where Champion designed a 1 piece replacement spark plug for the 5.4L 3V Triton engines. Has anyone used this new Champion Plug and if so, what's your opinion? Thanks, Don, Phoenix, 2007 EXPY-LMTD
Oh boy......Im a newby to the forum and posted yesterday a "tranny jerking problem". Sounds like it might be a "stinkin Ford mis-fire bring it to the dealer to fix" problem? The expy "jerks" when it is "lugging". Cruises down the road fine, accelerates fine, but start lugging the motor and hold on! Sound like the mis-fire? Looks like about a $350 fix? BTW Im a very happy ex 98' expy
4x4 with 230k owner! Our 07 so far has been great (bought in 09 with 32k on it and now has 111k).
4x4 with 230k owner! Our 07 so far has been great (bought in 09 with 32k on it and now has 111k).
Captain Morgan
Full Access Members
"tranny jerking problem"
Let's leave that one alone
.
Let's leave that one alone
.
Robert Gift
Active Member
Brown, not black rubber boots.
I'm told that the brown boot spark plugs do not have the extraction problem, or they have less of a problem than the spark plugs which have black boots.
Anyone have suggestions of a thin-viscosity carbon solvent I should first apply and let soak through the threads and around the sparkplug's external ground electrode tube?
I have PB blaster but it has no carbon solvent capabilities.
Thank you.
I'm told that the brown boot spark plugs do not have the extraction problem, or they have less of a problem than the spark plugs which have black boots.
Anyone have suggestions of a thin-viscosity carbon solvent I should first apply and let soak through the threads and around the sparkplug's external ground electrode tube?
I have PB blaster but it has no carbon solvent capabilities.
Thank you.
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I used PB Blaster alone and it did little to help as 6 of the 8 plugs broke. But other's have used it and it worked well for them. I let mine sit overnight too. I would run an additive in the gas that helps remove carbon build-up for a tank or two to prior to removal. This along with the PB Blaster should help as much as possible. Just crack the plugs a sixth of a turn and add a squirt of the PB Blaster. Just don't put too much in as it can lead to vapor lock when restarting the engine after the plug change.
Robert Gift
Active Member
Thank you, Stoned.
I plan to use too much!
Before installing the new sparkplugs, I would turn over the engine to force out any extra liquid to prevent hydro-lock.
They say to use a carbon solvent. PB Blaster does not claim to do that.
b1pig
Member
i think our maitenance center is using the full sleeve plugs.
nothing really bad that i've heard.
nothing really bad that i've heard.
No. Only the 3V engines have this issue.
Mine took like 4 months...
Well 4 days to actually change...
The dealer had only changed 3 of the 8 over 109K... Last owner had a extended warranty and let them or the COP fail.
So I had 5 old ones and here's how it went down:
1.) 1500 miles or so of seafoam and techtron in the gas.
2.) pre-bought new spec plugs, Lisle 65600 broken plug kit, and long reach needle nose pliers.
3.)Sunday night - Removed COPs and cleaned holes with compressed air. Sprayed PB blaster in each hole to soak plug.
4.)Monday Night - removed PCM and wiring for passenger side plugs. Used torque wrench set at 25 ft lbs to loosen...
5.) Tuesday Night - Removed plugs with torque wrench... 3 of the old 5 broke... Lisle tool popped broke ones with no issue. Took 4 hours to remove all 8. Let sit to let PD Blaster in cylinders evaporate.
6.) Wednesday Night - Started engine without plugs 4 times to dispel any PB left. Coated plugs in anti-seize per TSB... Replaced all 8. Spent one hour finding loose COP causing misfire.
7.) Thursday Morning - Drove to work like a Pimp... Enjoyed the new found power and pickup.
Well 4 days to actually change...
The dealer had only changed 3 of the 8 over 109K... Last owner had a extended warranty and let them or the COP fail.
So I had 5 old ones and here's how it went down:
1.) 1500 miles or so of seafoam and techtron in the gas.
2.) pre-bought new spec plugs, Lisle 65600 broken plug kit, and long reach needle nose pliers.
3.)Sunday night - Removed COPs and cleaned holes with compressed air. Sprayed PB blaster in each hole to soak plug.
4.)Monday Night - removed PCM and wiring for passenger side plugs. Used torque wrench set at 25 ft lbs to loosen...
5.) Tuesday Night - Removed plugs with torque wrench... 3 of the old 5 broke... Lisle tool popped broke ones with no issue. Took 4 hours to remove all 8. Let sit to let PD Blaster in cylinders evaporate.
6.) Wednesday Night - Started engine without plugs 4 times to dispel any PB left. Coated plugs in anti-seize per TSB... Replaced all 8. Spent one hour finding loose COP causing misfire.
7.) Thursday Morning - Drove to work like a Pimp... Enjoyed the new found power and pickup.
Robert Gift
Active Member
Auto parts store sold WRONG sparkplug!!
The 5.4 L. Triton three-valve engines use one of TWO types of sparkplugs. (Not interchangeable!)
I returned the spark plugs which the store originally sold to me and told them about the BROWN coil boots vs BLACK rubber boots.
They looked up Motorcraft web site.
Those BLACK boot sparkplugs have a shorter threaded area and smooth ground electrode shield (tube) which spans over the electrode point like the St. Louis arch.
=[::::::[-]|///|HHHHD
The Motorcraft SP509 for the BROWN boots has a much longer threaded shaft and the typical sparkplug "J" tip:
=[::::::[-]|////////|>
The 5.4 L. Triton three-valve engines use one of TWO types of sparkplugs. (Not interchangeable!)
I returned the spark plugs which the store originally sold to me and told them about the BROWN coil boots vs BLACK rubber boots.
They looked up Motorcraft web site.
Those BLACK boot sparkplugs have a shorter threaded area and smooth ground electrode shield (tube) which spans over the electrode point like the St. Louis arch.
=[::::::[-]|///|HHHHD
The Motorcraft SP509 for the BROWN boots has a much longer threaded shaft and the typical sparkplug "J" tip:
=[::::::[-]|////////|>
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Captain Morgan
Full Access Members
Last edited:
Robert Gift
Active Member
Extract from Wikipedia
Spark plug issues
2-valve 4.6 L, 5.4 L, and 6.8 L engines found in many 1997–2008 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles have an issue with stripped or missing spark plug threads in the cylinder heads. Ford acknowledges this issue in TSB 07-21-2 as well as earlier TSB's. Ford's TSB does not state that this issue is caused by owner neglect. Ford's only authorized repair procedure for out-of-warranty vehicles is to use the LOCK-N-STITCH aluminum insert and tool kit. For vehicles under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, Ford will only cover the replacement of the entire cylinder head; however, the Ford recommended spark plug service interval extends beyond the duration of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.[50]
3-valve 5.4 L and 6.8 L engines built before 10/9/07 and 3-valve 4.6 Ls built before 11/30/07 found in many 2004–2008 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles have an issue with difficult to remove spark plugs which can cause part of the spark plug to become seized in the cylinder head. The source of the problem is a unique plug design that is made with a 2-piece shell, which often separates, leaving the lower portion of the spark plug stuck deep in the engine. Ford acknowledges this issue in TSB 08-7-6 as well as earlier TSB's. Ford's TSB does not state that this issue is caused by owner neglect. The TSB provides a special procedure for spark plug removal on these engines. For situations where the spark plug has broken in the head, Ford distributes multiple special tools for removing the seized portion of the plug. The multiple procedures required for the different cases/situations of plugs seized in these engines are explained in the TSB. This repair is covered for vehicles under warranty; however, the Ford recommended spark plug service interval extends beyond the duration of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.[51]
Federal-Mogul, parent company of Champion Spark Plug, and Brisk Silver Racing have introduced a 1-piece machined shell 3-valve spark plugs that addresses the OEM 2-piece spark plug's separation issues.[52][53]
Spark plug issues
2-valve 4.6 L, 5.4 L, and 6.8 L engines found in many 1997–2008 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles have an issue with stripped or missing spark plug threads in the cylinder heads. Ford acknowledges this issue in TSB 07-21-2 as well as earlier TSB's. Ford's TSB does not state that this issue is caused by owner neglect. Ford's only authorized repair procedure for out-of-warranty vehicles is to use the LOCK-N-STITCH aluminum insert and tool kit. For vehicles under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, Ford will only cover the replacement of the entire cylinder head; however, the Ford recommended spark plug service interval extends beyond the duration of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.[50]
3-valve 5.4 L and 6.8 L engines built before 10/9/07 and 3-valve 4.6 Ls built before 11/30/07 found in many 2004–2008 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles have an issue with difficult to remove spark plugs which can cause part of the spark plug to become seized in the cylinder head. The source of the problem is a unique plug design that is made with a 2-piece shell, which often separates, leaving the lower portion of the spark plug stuck deep in the engine. Ford acknowledges this issue in TSB 08-7-6 as well as earlier TSB's. Ford's TSB does not state that this issue is caused by owner neglect. The TSB provides a special procedure for spark plug removal on these engines. For situations where the spark plug has broken in the head, Ford distributes multiple special tools for removing the seized portion of the plug. The multiple procedures required for the different cases/situations of plugs seized in these engines are explained in the TSB. This repair is covered for vehicles under warranty; however, the Ford recommended spark plug service interval extends beyond the duration of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.[51]
Federal-Mogul, parent company of Champion Spark Plug, and Brisk Silver Racing have introduced a 1-piece machined shell 3-valve spark plugs that addresses the OEM 2-piece spark plug's separation issues.[52][53]
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