Drivers turbo replacement...116,000 mile report.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Black

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Posts
1,376
Reaction score
640
Location
Kentucky
Curious if the plugs were indeed bad the first/second time, or in hindsight were you chasing something else?

I am a firm believer in whatever the manufacturer tells you for scheduled maintenance cut it in half don’t go over 5k miles per oil change (I don’t buy into the cost of synthetics unless required).
Oil, filters, plugs are cheap.
I swapped my plugs at 50k and it was most certainly time. They gaps were out pretty bad especially the front two cylinders. A slight miss was also remedied. Especially spark plugs I don’t like the idea of something so finely threaded running heat cycles for 100k miles, especially true with aluminum block. I’ll spend a few bucks a plug every 50k.
I’ll swap coils at 75k most likely even though they aren’t scheduled maintenance item. Been hearing good things about the Accel coils in the F150s.


What's that about?

Just something the dealer that I purchased from offers on most of their newer used vehicles. I figured it would be under the caveat that all service would need to be performed in their service department. Fortunately not oil has to be changed at 5k and scheduled maintenance must be performed at an ASE certified shop, though every 5 years an inspection must be done by the dealer where I purchased (no charge).
Kind of sucks as I enjoy doing my own work but my local dealer passes out 24.95 oil change/tire roatation coupons like candy and scheduled maintenance is pretty spread out on this trucks.
I do all my other repairs and my half maintenance schedule. Small price to pay to have the motor, tranny, and 4wd components covered for life unlimited mileage.
 

inmanlanier

Full Access Members
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Posts
156
Reaction score
43
Location
Florida
Has anyone read the coverage of the 'lifetime powertrain warranty' and what parts that covers? I think you'll be quite dismayed. Years ago all the US manufacturers significantly watered down their 'powertrain' definition. Scope of parts covered is disappointing IMHO.
 

MDEVIR

Active Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2016
Posts
29
Reaction score
4
Location
Indiana
Wondering if the turbos made any noise or perceived vibration prior to the failure?
I have a 2015 w 105K and occassional have a low rpm vibration which i feel is one of the turbos. Been running Lucas fuel additive as a cautionary move, and maybe this helps as seems to stay away, but still questioning and somewhat nervous.
 

lbv150

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Posts
606
Reaction score
284
Location
Northeast
Turbos are very particular when it comes to oil...I never go over 3K on changes - forget about the % reading. I let the engine reach operating temp before driving so the turbos get the proper oil viscosity and all engine components at the temp they like for clearances. When stopping you have to let the engine idle a few min to let the turbos spin down and cool. If you just shut off a turbo engine without doing that you will eventually ruin the bearings and seals as they will keep spinning without oil pressure from the engine to protect them.
 

limitedex

Full Access Members
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Posts
119
Reaction score
36
Location
Ok
I'll add my .02$.

My company buys only Ford 3.5L Eco F-150's. In the last few years we have had at least four bad throttle bodies, two trucks needed turbo replacements, and a few trucks have had bad coils. All of these issues have left our drivers stranded. All before 125,000 miles.

My truck has 112,000 miles with none of those issues. I however have drilled my CAC to vent, and had a catch can for ~80,000 miles. I just ordered new coils and plugs (changed plugs multiple times already) as a precaution. I'm thinking about keeping a spare throttle body in my truck just in case as well...
 

99WhiteC5Coupe

Full Access Members
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Posts
3,413
Reaction score
1,993
Location
USA
Turbos are very particular when it comes to oil...I never go over 3K on changes - forget about the % reading. I let the engine reach operating temp before driving so the turbos get the proper oil viscosity and all engine components at the temp they like for clearances. When stopping you have to let the engine idle a few min to let the turbos spin down and cool. If you just shut off a turbo engine without doing that you will eventually ruin the bearings and seals as they will keep spinning without oil pressure from the engine to protect them.


I have a 2015 Expedition Limited 4x4 - purchased new.

I live in the Midwest (cold winters...) and it takes about 10 minutes of driving at moderate speeds (30-50 mph) when the ambient temperature is 30 degrees F or lower, before the oil temperature gauge reading in the DIC changes from “low” to “normal”.

How long do remain stopped at idle, before driving, before your engine reaches operating temperature? Your listing shows you are in the Northeast - which is cold now. I could not imagine waiting 20-30 minutes at idle for the engine to reaches operating temperature.

Are you sure you do this all the time? How do you determine “normal operating temperature” of the engine? Do you use the vehicle’s DIC gauge?
 

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
I was unaware 15’ plus trucks had engine oil temperature. That’s nice bonus info to have.

On 07-14’ expys with the Triton V8 we have cylinder head temp sensors.
 

lbv150

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Posts
606
Reaction score
284
Location
Northeast
I have a 2015 Expedition Limited 4x4 - purchased new.

I live in the Midwest (cold winters...) and it takes about 10 minutes of driving at moderate speeds (30-50 mph) when the ambient temperature is 30 degrees F or lower, before the oil temperature gauge reading in the DIC changes from “low” to “normal”.

How long do remain stopped at idle, before driving, before your engine reaches operating temperature? Your listing shows you are in the Northeast - which is cold now. I could not imagine waiting 20-30 minutes at idle for the engine to reaches operating temperature.

Are you sure you do this all the time? How do you determine “normal operating temperature” of the engine? Do you use the vehicle’s DIC gauge?

You are correct it takes a long time...in the morning as soon as I jump out of the shower I remote start the '16 it runs 15-20 min. On my pickups I just run out start them and come back in. My wife remote starts her '04 Expy and lets it warm up. When she leaves work she remotes from her office. My son does the same as will my daughter when she old enough to drive.

Remember who says don't let them warm up for over 30 seconds, 5-10k oil changes, oil change %, etc...they want you to keep buying new vehicles, if they last then they don't sell new. If they don't break down what do the repair shops do? Think about that. I work heavy construction...we always warm up all engines before using the equipment.

The list of vehicles on my profile is not complete, however the ones listed are still "daily drivers" the 1989 is still going to the job sites like it always has. The heads were pulled at 180K just because of broken exhaust bolts. Zero gunk on anything and the machine shop thought there was only 60K on them. The cylinders still had the factory cross hatch visible and zero ring wear on them. The truck now has about 220K. The '95 F350 is the main snow plowing truck for our commercial accounts. So when it comes to maintenance or operation, no one can convince me otherwise. When I sold the '06 Expy even though they have a bad reputation on the 3 valve engine, a friend bought it for a fair price knowing how I take care of things.
 
Last edited:

rjdelp7

2000 XLT
Joined
Nov 30, 2014
Posts
1,529
Reaction score
378
Location
NY
You are correct it takes a long time...in the morning as soon as I jump out of the shower I remote start the '16 it runs 15-20 min. On my pickups I just run out start them and come back in. My wife remote starts her '04 Expy and lets it warm up. When she leaves work she remotes from her office. My son does the same as will my daughter when she old enough to drive.

Remember who says don't let them warm up for over 30 seconds, 5-10k oil changes, oil change %, etc...they want you to keep buying new vehicles, if they last then they don't sell new. Think about that. I work heavy construction...we always warm up all engines before using the equipment.
I never let my vehicles 'warm up'. I let it run, while I brush or scrape the windows. Most of the time, once the idle drops from high to low...I go. I wear a jacket, gloves and a hat. I take it easy until, I see the temp gauge move(about a mile/5 min). I have a neighbor, who remote starts his truck, year round. I hear it annoyingly, running constantly. He puts 'hours' of run time, without moving. He probably wastes $10-$20 a week in gas. What about wear and tear on the battery and starter? My father's Highlander shuts off and has to be 're-started', before you go. Carbon build up, from extended idling is bad also. Its only a matter of time, before the EPA goes after manufactures, for the pollution this must create. They put all this 'emission' stuff on cars, but enable it to idle for 20 mins, with no one in it.
 

bobmbx

Full Access Members
Joined
Jun 11, 2017
Posts
1,200
Reaction score
627
Location
Virginia
I never let my vehicles 'warm up'. I let it run, while I brush or scrape the windows. Most of the time, once the idle drops from high to low...I go. I wear a jacket, gloves and a hat. I take it easy until, I see the temp gauge move(about a mile/5 min). I have a neighbor, who remote starts his truck, year round. I hear it annoyingly, running constantly. He puts 'hours' of run time, without moving. He probably wastes $10-$20 a week in gas. What about wear and tear on the battery and starter? My father's Highlander shuts off and has to be 're-started', before you go. Carbon build up, from extended idling is bad also. Its only a matter of time, before the EPA goes after manufactures, for the pollution this must create. They put all this 'emission' stuff on cars, but enable it to idle for 20 mins, with no one in it.
There are some jurisdictions around the country that have passed "no idling" ordinances. Because, you know, idling kills polar bears or something.
 

lbv150

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Posts
606
Reaction score
284
Location
Northeast
I never let my vehicles 'warm up'. I let it run, while I brush or scrape the windows. Most of the time, once the idle drops from high to low...I go. I wear a jacket, gloves and a hat. I take it easy until, I see the temp gauge move(about a mile/5 min). I have a neighbor, who remote starts his truck, year round. I hear it annoyingly, running constantly. He puts 'hours' of run time, without moving. He probably wastes $10-$20 a week in gas. What about wear and tear on the battery and starter? My father's Highlander shuts off and has to be 're-started', before you go. Carbon build up, from extended idling is bad also. Its only a matter of time, before the EPA goes after manufactures, for the pollution this must create. They put all this 'emission' stuff on cars, but enable it to idle for 20 mins, with no one in it.

Haha, I must be your neighbor. LOL. To each his own. I know what works and proven it. We don't warm up or cool for comfort, it is for keeping engine and component wear like turbos to a minimum.
 

TobyU

Full Access Members
Joined
Apr 5, 2013
Posts
2,479
Reaction score
873
Location
Ohio
Always good to let a turbo car idle for at least 30 secs before turning off but mainly after and longer if you have been into the boost.
Usually by the time you turn into parking lot and find a spot and park etc it has been idling or almost idle speeds so it has cooled down fine.
Most people come home through a neighborhood or slowly and not right off of fast roads right into driveway.
The worst thing you could do to a turbo is kick it down a few times and boost it then hit the brakes pull into drive way and shut it off.
Old school was called coking the oil and bearings.

Over the years they have made aftermarket pre and post oilers for trubos. even some set ups that you turn key off and leave and it runs for 3 mins then turns off.
 

L Antoino

Member
Joined
May 29, 2017
Posts
6
Reaction score
1
Location
Pearland, Texas
Looks like your left rear shock is leaking fluid also. Compare your left and right shocks in your picture. I have a 2015 expedition limited and all four shocks where leaking at 23,000 or so miles. Brought it to a ford dealership to have it fixed under warranty but they said it was normal. Called ford customer service and they told me to bring it to another dealership for second opinion but would not offer me a free rental car if I had to leave my SUV and then for them to tell me its "normal" for shocks to leak. So I replace all four shocks with Bilsteins and almost 30,000 miles later still no leaks. At least I was able to get them to refund me the cost of the Bilsteins which is ok of them I guess.
 

Black

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Posts
1,376
Reaction score
640
Location
Kentucky
Looks like your left rear shock is leaking fluid also. Compare your left and right shocks in your picture. I have a 2015 expedition limited and all four shocks where leaking at 23,000 or so miles. Brought it to a ford dealership to have it fixed under warranty but they said it was normal. Called ford customer service and they told me to bring it to another dealership for second opinion but would not offer me a free rental car if I had to leave my SUV and then for them to tell me its "normal" for shocks to leak. So I replace all four shocks with Bilsteins and almost 30,000 miles later still no leaks. At least I was able to get them to refund me the cost of the Bilsteins which is ok of them I guess.

Which series did you use and what did you use for lower spring perches?
 

jeff kushner

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 30, 2014
Posts
2,330
Reaction score
1,276
Location
North of Annapolis
I'm sorry Toby but these are a bit different, there are no "bearings" in the turbo, nor can they coke the non-existent bearings BUT you are absolutely correct about allowing a turbo to cool prior to shutdown. In our trucks, the turbo is cooled by the fan somewhat after shut down and the oil will move a bit due to capillary attraction but make no mistake....shut off a red hot turbo(yes, they can get red hot) and you are boiling oil....destroying many of it's properties. Your cool-down suggestions are spot-on too........

jeff
 
OP
OP
Muddy Bean

Muddy Bean

Full Access Members
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Posts
818
Reaction score
508
Location
Michigan
My rear strut isn’t leaking. That’s brake fluid from my brake system bleed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

TobyU

Full Access Members
Joined
Apr 5, 2013
Posts
2,479
Reaction score
873
Location
Ohio
I'm sorry Toby but these are a bit different, there are no "bearings" in the turbo, nor can they coke the non-existent bearings BUT you are absolutely correct about allowing a turbo to cool prior to shutdown. In our trucks, the turbo is cooled by the fan somewhat after shut down and the oil will move a bit due to capillary attraction but make no mistake....shut off a red hot turbo(yes, they can get red hot) and you are boiling oil....destroying many of it's properties. Your cool-down suggestions are spot-on too........

jeff

I should have really only said coking the oil. Even with bearings present they don't coke themselves just overheat.
I have not looked at one of these turbos but all turbos I have seen which have mainly been Garrett, Turbonetics, have had sleeve style collar bearings or ball bearing hub.
They all have some area where the shaft spins bu the surrounding area or collar area stays still that is called a bearing. Just not a 6204 fixed race style or a crankshaft babbitt insert style.

I have definitely seen some red glowing turbos.
 

lbv150

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Posts
606
Reaction score
284
Location
Northeast
Regardless of the turbo make or bearing type....it wants clean oil and a brief cool down.
 

TobyU

Full Access Members
Joined
Apr 5, 2013
Posts
2,479
Reaction score
873
Location
Ohio
Regardless of the turbo make or bearing type....it wants clean oil and a brief cool down.

It also seems that regardless of manufacturer and bearing type that most turbos need to be replaced before the life of the vehicle.
This is just my main concern with the trend of smaller engines and turbos to get back up to the horsepower and torque levels of larger engines.
As I've said before, I have a great love for Turbo charging but I just don't want it to be on my daily driver or work truck that I would like to get 250k miles out of without any expensive component replacements.
The fact they decided to put two turbos on this engine even makes me bang my head against the wall even harder.
I rarely agree with the engineering for these things and current trends. All they seem to worry about is what works and what works for now. Sure lots of things will work but for how long? And there's more than one way often to end up with the same end result.
When you look back throughout the years it's absolutely hilarious but sad the way when Trends come out everybody jumps on the bandwagon and follows suit until the next trend takes over. Be it good or bad, they still all give us about the same thing.
Maybe I have such a gripe about this because I have always been unique and become accustomed to being the unique one in the group. I'm competitive and want to be better than everyone else or at least most, but I want to do it in a different way... my own way.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
57,016
Posts
535,899
Members
54,714
Latest member
Budman55
Top