Engine Coolant Leak at Radiator

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kyleaaronburkett

kyleaaronburkett

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It shouldn’t be too bad if you do, pull the whole front of that truck off will take about an hour. When I did my A/C compressor I could have changed the radiator while I was in there it’s right behind the condenser.

The grille and bumper cover come off together there are fasteners in the fenders, wheel well matting, and up top beneath the shroud cover. Pull all the plastic stuff off with headlights and the whole front end will come straight off.
I am planning to do this when I have a place to park for an extended period. I'm on a road trip and currently either have to pay a mechanic or find a temp (minimal tools required) solution

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kyleaaronburkett

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Also flush that whole coolant system, there should not be green antifreeze in that truck. It should be gold, someone put the wrong crap in, which likely reacted with the newer acidic coolant that should be in there and ate threw whatever caused the leak
Thanks for noticing and mentioning this. I just went on a YouTube binge watching about coolant types. Scotty Kilmer is my #1 YouTube mechanic and he has a great video called 'best coolant in the world and why'. I plan to flush and fill with the correct Ford recommended coolant.

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TobyU

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I wouldn't give Scotty Kilmer that much credit. There's plenty of things he does that other mechanics completely disagree with. His excitement kind of irks me but he's better and has better quality videos than a lot of people.
 
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kyleaaronburkett

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I wouldn't give Scotty Kilmer that much credit. There's plenty of things he does that other mechanics completely disagree with. His excitement kind of irks me but he's better and has better quality videos than a lot of people.
I can see that. To me, mechanics are like doctors... they often misdiagnose, overcharge, and they're always 100% certain they're right.

I'm draining the iat coolant tonight and will flush with distilled water, let it run through that and then drain and fill with the proper gold oat (or hoat) Ford approved coolant.

The plastic piece on my rad is still leaking and although the large leak has stopped I'm working to locate where the continued leak is from. It seems weird to have multiple cracks/holes but at least my leak has slowed. I'm about 3,000 miles from home so I think it's going to continue to be a plastic weld and top off the fluiants type of job until I can get it to my own garage.

My biggest two fears are:

1) take it to a mechanic and end up overpaying because they insist on choosing the crazy expensive 'correct' route for a fix (which may be correct to them only because extra $$$)

2) plastic weld job leads to a bigger crack that leaves me stranded and needing a tow. (I have AAA so less worried about this but obviously scared of damage from low fluid)

I have an OBDII Bluetooth reader that I have on while I'm driving that shows exact coolant temperature and should be enough to alert me of any issues before they happen. I also plan to pop the hood and check the coolant every 50 miles or so (about 60 times on my route home).

Any additional suggestions are VERY welcome! Thanks everyone for your input so far

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bobmbx

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I can see that. To me, mechanics are like doctors... they often misdiagnose, overcharge, and they're always 100% certain they're right.

I'm draining the iat coolant tonight and will flush with distilled water, let it run through that and then drain and fill with the proper gold oat (or hoat) Ford approved coolant.

The plastic piece on my rad is still leaking and although the large leak has stopped I'm working to locate where the continued leak is from. It seems weird to have multiple cracks/holes but at least my leak has slowed. I'm about 3,000 miles from home so I think it's going to continue to be a plastic weld and top off the fluiants type of job until I can get it to my own garage.

My biggest two fears are:

1) take it to a mechanic and end up overpaying because they insist on choosing the crazy expensive 'correct' route for a fix (which may be correct to them only because extra $$$)

2) plastic weld job leads to a bigger crack that leaves me stranded and needing a tow. (I have AAA so less worried about this but obviously scared of damage from low fluid)

I have an OBDII Bluetooth reader that I have on while I'm driving that shows exact coolant temperature and should be enough to alert me of any issues before they happen. I also plan to pop the hood and check the coolant every 50 miles or so (about 60 times on my route home).

Any additional suggestions are VERY welcome! Thanks everyone for your input so far

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Temp tells you nothing. In fact, if you lose enough water the sensor is no longer in contact with it and the indicated temp will actually go down. You're not overheating....you're losing coolant.

Tough love here....your radiator is beyond its service life, and anything other than replacing it is foolish.
 

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You may want to pop the radiator cap (if the car has one) so the system doesn't build pressure while you drive. You'll evaporate some water and you'll have to check the level often. Also keep an eye on the temperature. But it won't build pressure and that should prevent further leaking until you get home.
 
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kyleaaronburkett

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TobyU was pretty descriptive with the plastic repair. I drained the old green coolant and flushed it. When it was completely drained I scuffed up the area that is leaking and applied the stronger, longer to cure apoxy. This one says it should hold 3-4k psi once it fully cures.

If this doesn't do the trick I will be replacing it. I don't plan on replacing it in a parking lot, so, if it's leaking too much to safely make it back- I'm gonna stop at a shop.
 
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kyleaaronburkett

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Temp tells you nothing. In fact, if you lose enough water the sensor is no longer in contact with it and the indicated temp will actually go down. You're not overheating....you're losing coolant.

Tough love here....your radiator is beyond its service life, and anything other than replacing it is foolish.

Yep. I definitely agree, I need to replace the part that's leaking- especially if I can't get it to stop.

I'm not sure where the temp gauge is for the coolant but I've been able to keep the coolant visible in the reservoir while on the road... The leak isn't very fast now that it's been patched once (second time with different glue is yet to be seen).

Any gauge at all that the ECU has access to I can monitor, any suggestions on other gauges to watch- I can watch them while driving.

The leak only occurs when the pressure builds to a certain point because it doesn't leak while sitting in the driveway. I don't believe it's from any hose connections but today I double clamped the top hose above the leak just to be sure.

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kyleaaronburkett

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Just an update for anyone in the future, the second plastic weld is holding enough for the 2k+ mile road trip home.

Here's a pic of the exact plastic weld I used

471f636b5bcbc0ddfe2b797c4fc70c6b.jpg

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