Ford not starting (might be relay)

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sarassa951

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My 2007 ford expedition is not starting.
Replaced the battery.. the starter .. spark plugs and coil packs.
Clicks over as if battery was dead.
What are the main relay fuse part numbers by the way?

I would appreciate some help please from any one at this point..
 

jeff kushner

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I would normally be happy to point you in the right direction, because the exact same thing happened to me....but the mods will delete my post....so maybe ask Yupster?
 

Yupster Dog

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I would normally be happy to point you in the right direction, because the exact same thing happened to me....but the mods will delete my post....so maybe ask Yupster?
Are you talking to me? What is your problem?
OP asks for help and you say you can help but then don't? That is what trolls do.
Either help the OP or start your own thread. Quit hijacking their thread for your ignorant rhetoric.
 

Motorcity muscle

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My 2007 ford expedition is not starting.
Replaced the battery.. the starter .. spark plugs and coil packs.
Clicks over as if battery was dead.
What are the main relay fuse part numbers by the way?

I would appreciate some help please from any one at this point..
Welcome to the site. Need more info, clicks over, not sure what that means. Do you mean turns over and cranks but will not start?
 

Yupster Dog

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My 2007 ford expedition is not starting.
Replaced the battery.. the starter .. spark plugs and coil packs.
Clicks over as if battery was dead.
What are the main relay fuse part numbers by the way?

I would appreciate some help please from any one at this point..
Welcome to the forum!

VOLTAGE DROP TEST (digital voltage meter required) will test all your battery cables and connections to make sure the voltage is getting to where it needs to go. This is always a good place to start so you are not running in circles trying to diagnose something that just needed power.

Voltage Drop Test: is testing the connections without having to take them apart and you can work your way right to the problem.
So you have a digital volt meter($15@walmart) and you put the red on the positive battery post and the black on the negative post you will get how many volts your battery is putting out. (12.v)
now that you know your digital volt meter is on and working,

The goal is to read 0 volts.(means all good connections) the more volts you read the worse the connection. (Ex 1.5v it's a little dirty all the way to 11.3v means almost no connection.)
(notice i dont say black and red colors here, that is because it doesnt matter what colors where)

Put one wire on negative post then put the other wire on the clamp that is on the negative post. If you read any volts at all those volts are being lost in the connection from the post to the clamp. (Ex if you read 1.5v you need to clean the battery terminal). put back together and move on to the next connection on the wire and one still on the battery post.
This can be done on both positive and negative sides the exact same way.
Look up (Voltage Drop Test) You tube vids get a little techy but my explanation should help a little.
 

ediddily

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If you replaced all the expensive parts already, try the cheap stuff i.e. fuse and relay. You can visually inspect the fuse which should always be the FIRST thing to do. You can also manually test the relay with a battery and leads. If hooked up properly per relay diagram on the relay it should click when the bridge is properly connected. Or try swapping a similar relay, like the horn relay or something.
I used to always replace the expensive stuff first. Then realized it was the cheapest thing in the end. *face palm*
Also, check connections on starter itself, perhaps you didn't tighten one nut enough.
 

Modelcarguy

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You should find a fuse map on the underside of the fuse cover. If you’re looking for the location of the fuse box - above the radiator in front of the engine. But I’m certain you know that.

Check the fuses first is always great advice as given in a number of reply’s here.
 

sandbuster

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As Motorcity stated, when you attempt to start does the engine crank over and not light off or is there no crank action at all - just like a relay chattering away due to lack of voltage? I know this sounds a little crazy but it may be helpful if you could post a picture of your battery connections. On my 2017 there are numerous cables attached to a weirdly designed terminal connector which is known for its failures. I'll "try" and post my before and after post connector repairs:
Note the crack.

Pos Bat Terminal 1.jpg

BM 1.jpg

BM 4.jpgFinal.jpg
The last pic I just took - had to see what it looked like after a couple months since repair.

Hope this helps..
 

purevw

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The first quick test I usually do that doesn't require a meter is to turn on the headlights and then try to start the vehicle. If the headlights go out or go very dim while trying to crank, it's likely voltage or a bad connection. Since you stated you replaced both battery and starter, those would likely be the most likely connections to be bad. Ground is equally important. Something to consider, a new battery is not neccessarily a good battery. Bad batteries are out there, although rare.
 
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