fuel injector wiring (2011 Expy)

[ManUpOrShutUp]

I spent the last couple days trying to find the source of my P0201/P0301 TCs and had no luck. Tonight I had a buddy here so I decided to repeat some of the tests with him at the wheel while I tested various plugs. When I did this, I found that the noid light went on and off when I bent the wire on the cyl 1 connector. It looks like the fault in the wire is right at the base of the connector, so my questions are:

Can these connectors be opened and rewired? (I can splice in a new piece of wire and heatshrink it) If not, dare I ask where the other end of this wire is? (I know on some vehicles the intake manifold has to be removed to change these wires.)

I'll be looking into this some more this evening over a coffee, but thought someone who has done it might have some insight. Thanks.

 

[Plati]

I had a wire problem on the #1 injector due to remote start being wired into that … my shop replaced the connector and spliced it back in to the harness fixing the problem. I think that's different than what you have, since I think you are talking about the other side (injector side) of the connector (not sure). Also mine was a 2003XLT. On my 2003 the harness connector plugs right into injector. Can you replace the injector? Am I out to lunch?

This probably doesn't help.

 

[Yupster Dog]

I spent the last couple days trying to find the source of my P0201/P0301 TCs and had no luck. Tonight I had a buddy here so I decided to repeat some of the tests with him at the wheel while I tested various plugs. When I did this, I found that the noid light went on and off when I bent the wire on the cyl 1 connector. It looks like the fault in the wire is right at the base of the connector, so my questions are:

Can these connectors be opened and rewired? (I can splice in a new piece of wire and heatshrink it) If not, dare I ask where the other end of this wire is? (I know on some vehicles the intake manifold has to be removed to change these wires.)

I'll be looking into this some more this evening over a coffee, but thought someone who has done it might have some insight. Thanks.

Yes you can. look up "Fuel injector wire harness repair kit" (or take a trip to the salvage yard)
If I were to splice it I would solder ends together and use weather proof heat shrink to cover. (the kind with the glue inside)

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

I had a wire problem on the #1 injector due to remote start being wired into that … my shop replaced the connector and spliced it back in to the harness fixing the problem. I think that's different than what you have, since I think you are talking about the other side (injector side) of the connector (not sure). Also mine was a 2003XLT. On my 2003 the harness connector plugs right into injector. Can you replace the injector? Am I out to lunch?

This probably doesn't help.

No, my problem is the same - on the connector side. I do have remote start, but don't know if it's spliced into that. If I can just buy a connector with a pigtail on it, that would work also.

Yes you can. look up "Fuel injector wire harness repair kit" (or take a trip to the salvage yard)
If I were to splice it I would solder ends together and use weather proof heat shrink to cover. (the kind with the glue inside)

Thanks, Googled it. The local junkyards rarely have any late model Expeditions/F150s, so I didn't explore that avenue at first. However, after Googling the above, it looks like Ford may have used that connector from '99-17 and I can definitely find something in that range at the yard.

* Edit: First local yard had nothing. Second yard said maybe, but not inventoried. He said I could come look, but not today as they were "doing stuff" in the yard. Rather than be without my truck for another day or drive 20 minutes to the next closest yard to look, I went to my s*itty local NAPA 1.5 miles away and paid $16 for a new one.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Replaced the connector last night. I soldered it, used heatshrink, covered in heat-resistant split loom, and finished it off with electrical tape. I suspect that heat is what killed the original as it was resting on one of the coolant lines when I first checked it. Drove 60 miles today with no CEL, so seems to be ok now.