Fuse tap mystery

[Dice Roll]

I’ve been dealing with a poor dvd install. The fuse tap they used took out the image sensor and other things. I ended up using the heated wheel fuse and it power up my DVD player with keyed 12 volts.

problem is , I’ve lost the heated wheel. With the engine running, it shows as on via the button light and the infotainment screen has an icon. Wheel doesn’t heat up.

with the tap out it works. so 5is is what I found

tap out, factory fuse in I get heated wheel
Tap in, fuse in bottom I get heated wheel
Tap in with fuse in for dvd on the top side, I get dvd, lights for wheel work
Tap in with a ten amp in for dvd and a 20 amp in for the wheel, I get dvd only, lights show wheel should work
Tap in with a 20 amp in both slots I get dvd only, light for wheel work

I always get the button light up and icon as long as I have a fuse in for the wheel.

huh?

 

[Deadman]

These vehicles are not wired for ANY additional draw. You will probably need to wire a relay into the battery to pull the power directly from the battery.

 

[Dice Roll]

That’s what I thought they would’ve done, but they are an inept group for sure.

I saw a thread where a guy installed a dash cam on the heated wheel fuse with no issues.

do I have a bum tap?

 

[wakeboarder]

Just to confirm, is it F37? If so, the wire leaving the fuse block should be a blue with a brown stripe. It provides power to the heated steering wheel module. I’m not sure where it is located. From the diagram, it appears to receive its command through the CAN network. The button will probably light up regardless of the module receiving power since I think it has a different power source. Do you get the light for the heated wheel even with both fuses removed?

Does anybody know if the heated steering wheel module shows up in Forscan? This could be an additional test to see if the module is receiving power.

There could be something in the BCM that prevents the heated steering wheel from coming on if there is too much current through F37 BCM output. With both fuses in place, does it perform the same way with the DVD players off?

 

[Dice Roll]

I didn’t check for the light with no fuse. It makes sense to me that the dash isn’t the same as what it sent to the wheel. I’m confused how that other member got his to work. A year I’ll direct message him.

I actually haven’t had the players on with the wheel indicated on. There is a status light that comes on each player. That’s all that is on. They seem to work just fine when turned on.

 

[Dice Roll]

Pretty sure it’s fuse 37. Definely effects if you can get heat at the wheel based on the fuse arrangement so it’s for sure on the wheel heat fuse.

 

[bryz_expy]

I have my radar and for a while had my dash cam using a fuse tap in fuse 37 and no issues. Maybe the draw isn’t the same but I think it might be your fuse tap causing an issue. I would probably just use fuse 37 as a switched source for a relay and run power from the battery for your DVD setup.


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[5280tunage]

Likely won't help, but for me, the only tap I've done where I've directly connected something is the rear view mirror for a dash cam and radar detector. Both of those are really low current draw items.

However for my light bar etc, I definitely tapped a 12V switched source inside the vehicle (off of the HSM) but I use that +12V only to enable a relay I have in the engine compartment, so virtually no draw. In some of my previous vehicles, additional current draw on some circuits would actually cause errors or devices would be disabled even though fuses weren't tripped.

 

[Dice Roll]

Likely won't help, but for me, the only tap I've done where I've directly connected something is the rear view mirror for a dash cam and radar detector. Both of those are really low current draw items.

However for my light bar etc, I definitely tapped a 12V switched source inside the vehicle (off of the HSM) but I use that +12V only to enable a relay I have in the engine compartment, so virtually no draw. In some of my previous vehicles, additional current draw on some circuits would actually cause errors or devices would be disabled even though fuses weren't tripped.

sounds like what I need to do is the relay and just use that for trigger then. Some people on another forum thought I could run into the same deal with current draw being too much and several said for sure it’s a module limiter type thing that’s defeating me on this.

the dummies that did the install used number 34 I think, whichever one has the image sensor for parking etc. that set off about 5 errors messages on startup. I noticed it as soon as it came off the carrier. No way they didn’t and they simply sent it out the door to my 600 miles away. I’m lucky I’ve been able to use the dvd and not have any real loss of use.

 

[wakeboarder]

sounds like what I need to do is the relay and just use that for trigger then. Some people on another forum thought I could run into the same deal with current draw being too much and several said for sure it’s a module limiter type thing that’s defeating me on this.

the dummies that did the install used number 34 I think, whichever one has the image sensor for parking etc. that set off about 5 errors messages on startup. I noticed it as soon as it came off the carrier. No way they didn’t and they simply sent it out the door to my 600 miles away. I’m lucky I’ve been able to use the dvd and not have any real loss of use.

When the heater isn’t working, measure the voltage on the top of the fuse. A lot of blade fuses have flush metal points for troubleshooting on the top. The displays may have large capacitors to help protect them from shutting down on short low voltage events. These same capacitors may cause a large but short current draw at power up. This could be causing the BCM to shut off the output.