Hi gang, I saw the sticky above but it seems like it turned into a discussion about spark plugs. What issues should I be looking for with the 2010 expedition el? The model I am looking at is a 4x4 with about 56k miles. It is priced at 25k. I have read that these trucks eat rear wheel bearings like candy and go through brakes every 60k so I am sure both of those issues will need to be dealt with ASAP. Where the paint issues resolved by 2010? Any other things to look for on the truck before purchase? Thanks!
Getting ready to purchase 2010 xlt el, any known issues?
- Thread starter Akbison
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
RI-Matt
Full Access Members
Hmmm, I've never heard that before, where did you read that ?
The rear brakes have been known to wear faster than the fronts.
Paint issue seems to be sporatic. Some have had issues others haven't. The year doesn't seem to matter either.
Matt
Sierra Lima1470
Full Access Members
Hmmm wheel bearings. I think that might be what's wrong with mine currently. But really the only problems I have read about are the window regulators, blend door actuators, and paint issue. Mine has none of those problems luckily. Test that all windows go up and down quick, check that the front ac can change temperatures and zones.
mrford60
Full Access Members
the paint issues are usually found in areas that use salt or brine on the roads to melt snow ant ice. it makes the aluminum hood and rear hatch corrode then bubble the paint.
I don't know where you heard that about the wheel bearings. I have OEM at 140k and they are ok. Just replaced ball joints though.
Warped rotors is an issue I've had, although I can't say that's specific to the Expy as our Honda had warped rotors at times too.
I think the paint issue is more related to prep and application than brine and salt. I had a 2006 Mustang that never saw salt, but it had the bubbles on the trailing edge of the aluminum hood.
Warped rotors is an issue I've had, although I can't say that's specific to the Expy as our Honda had warped rotors at times too.
I think the paint issue is more related to prep and application than brine and salt. I had a 2006 Mustang that never saw salt, but it had the bubbles on the trailing edge of the aluminum hood.
bd1980
Member
Ya, just run the ac controls through their paces, driver/passenger, temp changes, etc and all the electrical stuff, navigation if it has it. Being a mechanically oriented person, I didn't check these things and I wish I would have, just would have made the dealership responsibility thing a little easier to deal with. Love my truck though. You'll be happy with it!
Love Our 2010 Expedition EL XLT
Purchased new in early 2010. Has proven *highly reliable*, and until recently, very cheap to maintain. Used principally by soccer mom, and once annually for major road trips. Not used for hauling.
Things to look for:
1) Drive shaft is two piece design, with a bearing suspending the two halves to the bottom of the passenger compartment. Mine failed at 70k miles. Put truck in gear and start normally. If you hear a faint whirring sound start at 15mph, and grow in intensity to 45mph, the bearing has most likely failed. (R&R $145 at local stealership) Dont confuse with a differential failure. If in doubt, take to a shop for further examination.
2) Independent Rear-Wheel-Suspension: check for dripping around the differential. At 90k miles, I had a little dripping on the driver side axle shaft joint. Check to ensure that you dont have excessive dripping.
3) Shifting from park to drive at 100k should not produce a "thump" or a bang. In fact, at 100k miles, I still can not feel the down-shift when rolling to a stop. Transmission should be smooth as silk. (have never serviced transmission)
4) Transmission: at 100k, have noticed that pan gasket is failing at the rear of the transmission (under cross member). Examine and ensure that yours has not blown.
5) O2 Sensors: passenger side fore (before Cat) failed at 75K - computer will tell you which is failing, and adjust your mileage accordingly. Recommend that before purchasing: obtain an OBD2 reader that checks the status of the Emissions System, and verify that the exhaust system is working as advertised. A *partially* failing O2 sensor does not throw a code until total failure. (Cost to replace all 4 sensors: $540 (Bosch quality) - easy to do yourself - passenger side requires contortionist). Make sure to use plenty of high-temp Anti-Seize when re-installing, and DO NOT over-torque...
6) Automatic Running Boards: This has proven to be the most $$$ failure on my vehicle. Driver side running board extender trapeeze motor/gear box failed (icy weather froze board to bottom of vehicle). As a result, motor gears bound and stripped, causing board to remain extended. Unable to replace just the motor/gear box: cost to replace trapeeze was $1850 (for just the driver side(fordparts.com)). Recommendation: if yours has electrical auto-extend running boards, turn off vehicle, and in the configuration options (dashboard computer), extend/retract the running boards. If they do so *quietly*, they are most likely OK. If you hear gear noises, but they still actuate: beware. If they fail to extend or retract, consider the price to repair them yourself...
7) Engine has been completely reliable without trouble codes or failures. Performance today is like it was off-the-lot - excellent. Have performed basic regular maintenance - oil (Mobile1 5w20), filter (WIX 51592), and Air Filter. There is no PVC valve, no interior air filter, and no user-serviceable fuel filter. Water pump is still solid (not weeping). However, rear main seal is moist (union between engine and tranny) - no drip, but is moist with oil. Replaced rubber hoses at 90k - the lower radiator hose was hard to find in the Dallas Area - R&R is simple for that hose, but be careful. ALSO: auto parts store will try to sell you the *wrong* thermostat - always note the temp rating when removing the factory thermostat, and replace with identical temperature value. Vehicle will throw an error code if wrong thermostat is installed. Caution: note torque when re-installing that thermostat housing - 85in/lbs - you can strip those bolt holes very easily...
8) Interior: For such a great vehicle, Ford really used cheap carpeting in the rear cargo area... It has not stood up so well to the kids. Too, the driver seat (faux leather) also has not stood up so well over the last 4 years - it is getting hard (feels like a picket fence to sit on now). Re-appolster?
9) In-Dash Navigation/Entertainment: System still works as expected without trouble. Have converted my music collection of 600 CDs and put them on a hard drive in the center console. Nice to be able to select music push-button without fumbling with all those disks. About to purchase the upgrade DVD for the maps. Will let you know how that goes.
10) Moon Roof: I guess this is the only complaint that I have about the vehicle - the moon roof leaks. The dealership has been unable to stop the leak. It has leaked throughout the life of the vehicle. It leaks if we have a drizzle outside, and it leaks in a down-pour.
Purchased new in early 2010. Has proven *highly reliable*, and until recently, very cheap to maintain. Used principally by soccer mom, and once annually for major road trips. Not used for hauling.
Things to look for:
1) Drive shaft is two piece design, with a bearing suspending the two halves to the bottom of the passenger compartment. Mine failed at 70k miles. Put truck in gear and start normally. If you hear a faint whirring sound start at 15mph, and grow in intensity to 45mph, the bearing has most likely failed. (R&R $145 at local stealership) Dont confuse with a differential failure. If in doubt, take to a shop for further examination.
2) Independent Rear-Wheel-Suspension: check for dripping around the differential. At 90k miles, I had a little dripping on the driver side axle shaft joint. Check to ensure that you dont have excessive dripping.
3) Shifting from park to drive at 100k should not produce a "thump" or a bang. In fact, at 100k miles, I still can not feel the down-shift when rolling to a stop. Transmission should be smooth as silk. (have never serviced transmission)
4) Transmission: at 100k, have noticed that pan gasket is failing at the rear of the transmission (under cross member). Examine and ensure that yours has not blown.
5) O2 Sensors: passenger side fore (before Cat) failed at 75K - computer will tell you which is failing, and adjust your mileage accordingly. Recommend that before purchasing: obtain an OBD2 reader that checks the status of the Emissions System, and verify that the exhaust system is working as advertised. A *partially* failing O2 sensor does not throw a code until total failure. (Cost to replace all 4 sensors: $540 (Bosch quality) - easy to do yourself - passenger side requires contortionist). Make sure to use plenty of high-temp Anti-Seize when re-installing, and DO NOT over-torque...
6) Automatic Running Boards: This has proven to be the most $$$ failure on my vehicle. Driver side running board extender trapeeze motor/gear box failed (icy weather froze board to bottom of vehicle). As a result, motor gears bound and stripped, causing board to remain extended. Unable to replace just the motor/gear box: cost to replace trapeeze was $1850 (for just the driver side(fordparts.com)). Recommendation: if yours has electrical auto-extend running boards, turn off vehicle, and in the configuration options (dashboard computer), extend/retract the running boards. If they do so *quietly*, they are most likely OK. If you hear gear noises, but they still actuate: beware. If they fail to extend or retract, consider the price to repair them yourself...
7) Engine has been completely reliable without trouble codes or failures. Performance today is like it was off-the-lot - excellent. Have performed basic regular maintenance - oil (Mobile1 5w20), filter (WIX 51592), and Air Filter. There is no PVC valve, no interior air filter, and no user-serviceable fuel filter. Water pump is still solid (not weeping). However, rear main seal is moist (union between engine and tranny) - no drip, but is moist with oil. Replaced rubber hoses at 90k - the lower radiator hose was hard to find in the Dallas Area - R&R is simple for that hose, but be careful. ALSO: auto parts store will try to sell you the *wrong* thermostat - always note the temp rating when removing the factory thermostat, and replace with identical temperature value. Vehicle will throw an error code if wrong thermostat is installed. Caution: note torque when re-installing that thermostat housing - 85in/lbs - you can strip those bolt holes very easily...
8) Interior: For such a great vehicle, Ford really used cheap carpeting in the rear cargo area... It has not stood up so well to the kids. Too, the driver seat (faux leather) also has not stood up so well over the last 4 years - it is getting hard (feels like a picket fence to sit on now). Re-appolster?
9) In-Dash Navigation/Entertainment: System still works as expected without trouble. Have converted my music collection of 600 CDs and put them on a hard drive in the center console. Nice to be able to select music push-button without fumbling with all those disks. About to purchase the upgrade DVD for the maps. Will let you know how that goes.
10) Moon Roof: I guess this is the only complaint that I have about the vehicle - the moon roof leaks. The dealership has been unable to stop the leak. It has leaked throughout the life of the vehicle. It leaks if we have a drizzle outside, and it leaks in a down-pour.
Last edited:
I've had to replace a rear axle seal. It was surprisingly inexpensive.
The trans leak is probably not your gasket. Its the bulkhead connector above the pan on the rear passenger side. It drips down on the lip of the trans pan and looks like a leak from the gasket. Part cost is about $30 but you have to drop the pan to replace it so you spend a lot more in trans fluid and labor. There's a TSB on this for F150s and newer Expys.
I had to have my moonroof track replaced. Nothing worse than hearing a *SNAP* when you open the roof and it won't close.
Other than those items over 100K miles (I bought my 07 used in 2009 with 45k on it) my EL has also been very solid.
Similar threads
