Hello Everyone I'm not new here but I finally a member

[Rachel N Adkins]

I own a 2007 Expedition 5.4 3v ssv el xlt 4x4. This is now my third expedition and not sure exactly why but I love them. Im starting to think its because I just don't feel right if I don't have something to work on every other week. yes i am chic that works on my own s**t and I don't let anyone work on my truck unless I'm right there and even then I still might not let you and I sure the hell don't let any one drive it.. my first expedition was a 99, my second one was an 04 and the 07 is what I just bought about a month ago.

 

[Rachel N Adkins]

this has been my current issue since owning it. There have been a couple codes that my scanner had picked up. So I started investigating and found this

I own a 2007 Expedition 5.4 3v ssv el xlt 4x4. This is now my third expedition and not sure exactly why but I love them. Im starting to think its because I just don't feel right if I don't have something to work on every other week. yes i am chic that works on my own s**t and I don't let anyone work on my truck unless I'm right there and even then I still might not let you and I sure the hell don't let View attachment 37394 View attachment 37395 any one drive it.. my first expedition was a 99, my second one was an 04 and the 07 is what I just bought about a month ago.

 

[craig sargood]

Welcome,It’s hard to tell From the picture, but I suspect it’s coming from your intake manifold gasket or from the manifold itself. The coolant looks like it’s just sitting on top of the head and hopefully for you not coming up from spark plug hole. I have a 00 but they should be pretty close. Here are some pictures of my motor with manifold off, you can see on the old gaskets there are coolant passages on the front and rear of the heads. I’d guess that yours are leaking. It’s not a terribly hard job, just need to take a bunch of shit apart to get to.

 

[Rachel N Adkins]

Well after looking and checking everything that has to do with the coolant. I found that its leaking from the heater hose that goes into to heater core not sure if its the inlet or the outlet but ill post a pic

 

[craig sargood]

That’s good, a lot better than what I was thinking, hopefully you already got it taken care of. Rock auto is a good place to get parts, they offer different options usually for the same parts.

 

[riphip]

Or fordpartsgiant.com for OEM parts

Cool that you do your own mechanical.

 

[Trainmaster]

Those hoses are a known problem. TascaFord has very good prices. Most Expeditions have rear heaters, many of the SSVs do not. On those there is a plastic wye in the hose above the manifold that always leaks.

You did good getting that hose off.

Great eyes, by the way.

 

[Rachel N Adkins]

So I have a few new problems. My truck is now throwing codes p0480 nad p2006 I looked into them both up and one is the intake manifol runner control valve and the other says its the cooling fan. I have just replaced the spark plus and cooling fan not even 4 days ago. I need this thing up and running its best, my tags are up and I've just started my own business and this is the last thing I need to not work with me right now.

 

[riphip]

P2006:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8KySELEMmY

P0480:

If they can do it, you can too.

 

[Rachel N Adkins]

So I ened up taking off my intake manifold (pain in the ass) to replace the actuator and wow its nasty inside and the previous own used silicone with the gaskets to seal it which they used a lot of. What should I use to clean the manifold and where the gaskets are. Also can I clean the fuel injectors?

 

[Trainmaster]

Usually silicone has to be scraped off. I just use a single edged razor but there are scrapers made for this stuff with long handles. Just plug any holes with rags so the crap doesn't get into the engine. Vacuum or blow out any of the crap that you get free.

As far as the carbon and oil that's in the manifold, you could use that spray carburetor cleaner or just buy a new one if you feel it's worth the money. Really doesn't have to be clean enough to eat off of.

The injectors should be fine if the motor was running okay. They usually will last for many hundreds of thousands of miles without service. Most folks put Seafoam or some other additive in the gas and consider that a help. You can remove them and send them out to a service that will inspect, clean and make sure they are operating somewhat equally, but I wouldn't mess with them if they aren't bothering you.

Sweet eyes, by the way.

 

[riphip]

Rigid wet/dry vac is a plus for me. I like the stainless steel over the plastic. Easier to clean. Clean up vac hoses, etc with Simple Green (let it sit) and water hose.
For gas additive, I use Hot Shot Gasoline Extreme ( I have diesel trucks also). Check it out.

 

[Rachel N Adkins]

I was checking on the web to see what others have tried and one shows a guy using WD-40 and to my surprise it worked pretty good. I'm just waiting for a couple parts to come in tomorrow so I can start to put it back together and hopefully with the new IMCR actuator my code with be gone. I need it to pass smog asap. But while the intake manifold has been off I noticed there was a hose that I don't know what it goes to. The previous owner bent it over and put a zip tie on it. So now I'm trying to find out what the hell it is and where its supposed to go.

Thank you guys for the advice and help

 

[riphip]

Freshen those grounds that you, hopefully, may never see again while intake is off.
Do you have a close up of the zip-tied hose? I have a Ford DVD manual loaded

 

[Rachel N Adkins]

Found out what the hose went to. It was my front differential. Im kinda confused on how the rods on the runner control actuator go and how the butterflies are supposed to be when its hooked on. Are the supposed to be open closed . Does anyone happen to have a picture of the intake manifold and how the butterflies are

 

[riphip]

See if this helps:

 

[Rachel N Adkins]

Ok so I have a really big problem one of the manifold bolts snapped off while putting it back on and I don't know how to get it out

 

[riphip]

Intake Manifold Assembly

Disassembly

1. Remove the 4 bolts, the vibration damper and the throttle body (TB).

1. Remove the 4 bolts and the fuel rail.

1. Remove the fuel injector-to-fuel rail locking clips and separate the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.
   • Discard the 2 O-ring seals from each fuel injector.

1. Remove the charge motion control valve (CMCV) rod locking clips.

1. Remove the stud bolt, the 2 bolts and the CMCV.

1. Remove the 2 bolts and the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) heater element.
   • Discard the O-ring seal.

1. Remove the engine noise shield insulator from the intake manifold.

Assembly

1. Install the engine noise shield insulator onto the intake manifold.

1. NOTE: Lubricate the new O-ring seal with clean engine oil prior to installation.
   
   Using a new O-ring seal, install the PCV heater element and the 2 bolts.
   • Tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).

1. Position the CMCV and install the stud bolt and the 2 bolts.
   • Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

1. Install the CMCV rod locking clips.

1. NOTE: Lubricate the new O-ring seal with clean engine oil prior to installation.
   
   Install new O-ring seals on each of the fuel injectors.

1. Assemble the fuel injectors onto the fuel rail and install the locking clips.

1. Install the fuel rail and fuel injector assembly onto the intake manifold.

1. Install the 4 fuel rail bolts.
   • Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

1. NOTE: Lubricate the TB-to-intake manifold gasket with clean engine coolant prior to installation.
   
   Install the TB, the vibration damper and tighten the bolts in 2 stages.
   • Stage 1: Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
   • Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

 

[Trainmaster]

If the broken bolt is easily accessible, it shouldn't be too hard to get out, just a bit more work. Google "extracting broken bolt".

Generally, if you can, you start with a "left handed drill". It drills in the opposite direction and if the stub is not tight it may pull it right out. You drill in the center of the bolt. Removing more and more metal from the bolt can loosen the tension on the threads. You just have to carefully center the drill but (sometimes with a "center punch") and be cautious not to drill too deep into the part.

If that doesn't work, an "extractor" is tapped into the hole, which tightens left handedly and should pull it out.

My only advise is to only buy USA-made extractors and bits. The rest is garbage.

Removing broken bolts is an art.

 

[riphip]

Rachel, did you get this resolved??