Help!!!! No heat in winter land!!!!

[northernexp]

Hey guys I'm hoping someone might be able to help me out, for some strange reason I have absolutely no heat in my truck, I fixed an issue with the overflow bottle, the pace where the hose for the overflow connects to the rad was broken, so I bought a brass connector and drilled out the hole used gasket maker on the threads and the problem was solved.

But for some reason after I fixed that issue I went for a car wash, and parked it for a cpl hrs and the next trip I made, I had zero heat at all. I topped up the coolant after the repair, so I went and picked up a high flow thermostat and that didn't fix it.

I dropped the glove box and used a dremel to cut a access hole to get a look at the blend door, and I turned the ignition on and went from full heat to full cold and the door moves and seals up very nicely, so I am totally stumped, can someone please give me some suggestions on where to look next??

I need the expedition to take my 10 month old daughter around and winter is in full swing, so I really need my heat back.

The rear heater isn't working either.

 

[northernexp]

OK I went for a Lil highway ride and the front heat came back, that was my first trip with the new thermostat. It's a prestone high flow 195. I had a stant 190 in it before that. The front heat is back which is good but can anyone give me some suggestions as to why the rear heat isn't working? The heater core isn't leaking I checked the drain hose in the rear, the house that feeds the heater core feels warm but I don't feel a anything on the return line. Could the core be plugged?

 

[northernexp]

Well I went ahead and pulled the rear heater core, it wasnt leaking but I am going off of the assumption that since the inlet hose was hot that it was feeding or attempting to feed the heater core, but the return hose was cold. My guess is that it has to be the core or the inlet line that i was plugged, I removed the rear core and gave it a good rinse and then a good wash but it's pretty late over here so I'm going to finish in the morning, I really hope this fixes it

 

[Bedrck47]

I would say if you felt heat on the inlet hose and none on the outlet that the core is clogged

 

[northernexp]

Well I went ahead and pulled the rear heater core, it wasnt leaking but I am going off of the assumption that since the inlet hose was hot that it was feeding or attempting to feed the heater core, but the return hose was cold. My guess is that it has to be the core or the inlet line that i was plugged, I removed the rear core and gave it a good rinse and then a good wash but it's pretty late over here so I'm going to finish in the morning, I really hope this fixes it

Thanks for the reply, I was sure it was the core but when I rinsed it out I didn't see anything come out that looked like it might clog the core, just some ugly coolant. I still haven't tried it yet because Im still not done putting the rear back together. I'm actually going to get some shut eye I started up real late getting the rear core out


After I get it put back together I'll post up the results. The rear blend door was in the right position, so I don't think it's a blend door issue either, l I'll post up my findings in a Lil bit

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

I will just leave this here, just because it's not coming out, doesn't mean it's not clogged. I had flushed this core before and it came out clear when I was done, it eventually started leaking so I replaced it. this is just pumping some water through it, much more came out but not as fast as I kept reversing the flow back and forth... I also had cooler heat in the front than I had at the rear

 

[northernexp]

I will just leave this here, just because it's not coming out, doesn't mean it's not clogged. I had flushed this core before and it came out clear when I was done, it eventually started leaking so I replaced it. this is just pumping some water through it, much more came out but not as fast as I kept reversing the flow back and forth... I also had cooler heat in the front than I had at the rear

Thanks for the input, I really flushed it good, reversing the flow and dumping it hard etc. I still haven't put it back together but I'm really hoping that this fixes it, the return line was child and I could tell that no coolant was in it when I was checking things out but the inlet line was super hot all the way to the heater core.

 

[stamp11127]

If the heater core(s) are clogged then there is a problem in the entire cooling system. Not only is the core clogged the radiator is also, it just hasn't let you know about it.
Simply flushing the core isn't going to solve your problem. The system needs to be flushed in order to get all the crap out of it otherwise the core is just going to clog again.

 

[northernexp]

If the heater core(s) are clogged then there is a problem in the entire cooling system. Not only is the core clogged the radiator is also, it just hasn't let you know about it.
Simply flushing the core isn't going to solve your problem. The system needs to be flushed in order to get all the crap out of it otherwise the core is just going to clog again.

Thanks for the input. I did an overhaul back in August, intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets, spark plugs coils etc. In hindsight I should have probably flushed all the coolant then, in times past I have used a garden hose and ran it through the cooling systems on some of my other vehicles after dumping the coolant. When I repaired the overflow tube connection I'm sure a bunch of plastic shavings made their way into the system also.

Running water through the system is no longer a possibility with it being winter. Im probably going to have to take it to a shop for servicing, due to the circumstances.

Thanks everyone for all the info, I appreciate it very much and if anyone else might have any suggestions please let me know I am open to to ideas.

I'm headed back out now to button up the rear.

 

[stamp11127]

Just a heads up, never use tap water in a cooling system. The mineral content conducts electricity. If there is a problem with the grounding to chassis/battery you have now provided a nice path for the current to flow through the cooling system. The problem now is your are also allowing electrolysis to each your aluminum radiator and heater cores.

Picked up my Expy for that reason. Idiot mechanics kept mixing the coolant with tap water and the original owner had to keep dumping $ into it due to their mistakes.

 

[northernexp]

Wow that's the first time I have heard of that, I have always used regular water to mix coolant or flush a system etc. But I guess I won't be anymore lol.

 

[northernexp]

I wonder if the mineral content differs from area to area, never heard anyone have that type of issue ever. I guess if the factory grounds are deteriorated bad that could happen.

 

[stamp11127]

You're up in a salt state right?????
Rust and corrosion raises hell with wiring and electronics.

Next time you are in Walmart or an auto parts store check the premix coolant gallon bottles for the contents.

Check this link also for some good info:
http://www.ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101

 

[northernexp]

My father in law recommended burping the coolant just incase there's an air lock from when we did the overhaul in the summer, I guess that could be it but at this point I think I'm just going to take it fur a coolant flush to clean the system out once and for all.

 

[Bedrck47]

Keep the forum updated on the results It may help others

 

[northernexp]

Keep the forum updated on the results It may help others

I def will, I know for sure I dumped a lot of containments into the cooling system when I had the intake off, gasket maker and shavings from the block when I had to thread a hole where I broke a bolt on the coolant crossover pipe.

I was taking a look under the truck and I noticed that the lines go from rubber hoses to metal lines, which are much narrower than the hoses, I wouldn't be surprised if the clogged sections are down there.

After the first startup and drive today after cleaning out the rear core the coolant inlet for nice and hot but the return line was empty again. I went for a short ride a Lil while ago and this time the rear inlet hose wasn't getting coolant, and both inlet and return lines were cold, the front heat has been working fine since last night's thermostat change and highway drive.

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

best way that I have found to burp it, just fill the bottle up well above the cold mark and start the engine. rev it to 2k for a couple minutes then let it idle up to temp, then, when the tstat opens up, rev it again for a few seconds, you will belch coolant out of the bottle for a bit, but the air will be gone. wait for the engine to cool and check coolant level, adjust as needed.

 

[northernexp]

best way that I have found to burp it, just fill the bottle up well above the cold mark and start the engine. rev it to 2k for a couple minutes then let it idle up to temp, then, when the tstat opens up, rev it again for a few seconds, you will belch coolant out of the bottle for a bit, but the air will be gone. wait for the engine to cool and check coolant level, adjust as needed.

Thank u for the tips, I dumped in 3 bottles of prestone radiator flush, the type that can be left in for up to 3 days before the flush. I only went for a short ride unfortunately, not enough hours in the day I swear.

After 15 mins of driving I felt the rear heat starting to come back, after arriving home I checked the rear core and lines and the inlet line was super hot and I could feel that it was under pressure, but yet the return line was only slightly warm, and wasn't under pressure.

Im starting to think that I may have air in the system, like my father in law was mentioning.

Burping would def be next on my list but I already negotiated a fair price for a coolant flush from a local shop, it will be done Friday, but I'll report any changes in between now and then.

Thanks again everyone for all the input!!

 

[northernexp]

Took the expedition to and from work today which is only about 12 kms round trip but the heat is def back in the rear. It takes a bit to warm up the rear compared to the front but both inlet and return lines in the rear are under pressure, so much so that the lines started leaking because I didn't secure the hoses with the clamps.

One weird thing I wanted to share, I noticed that all the local parts stores in my area have the OEM thermostat opening temp as 180°f and the option of 192 or 195°f thermostats with varying flow etc.

I talked to a cpl Ford parts guys and they said that all the Ford thermostats are 180°f and that it shouldn't be a good idea to deviate from that since all the sensors etc. Are setup for that temp.

I had already changed the thermostat once when I first night the expedition about 13 months ago, I never even bothered looking at the temps on it, it is a stant unit. It's opening temp is 192°f I just looked at it today, the prestone I've is 195°f but I was after the hottest one when I bought it.

I then looked at the original thermostat that was in it when I bought the truck and it's a motorcraft unit and it says 192°f on it.

So was that motorcraft one not the stock original? Also when I bought the stant I didn't ask for the hotter unit but it says 192°f also.

So what gives? Were the Ford guys wrong? I've never had any cooling issues in the summer, with moderate towing etc. The temp has never judged from the same position at just below half on the gauge.

 

[northernexp]

I'm take pics of the 2 stats right away

You have to look closely at the 2nd pic but it says motorcraft on the left and 192f on the right.