Irradic Temperature Guage

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doublethrow

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Bought a used 2013 Expedition (XLT 2WD 5.4L). Noticed a small coolant leak underneath coming from middle of the vehicle.

Garage thought it was the freeze plug which didn't make sense because the car never left the south US. They said it's fine to drive as long as you keep coolant in it.

Drove it for one day on the interstate filling up the overflow tank regularly. After about 200 miles, it overheated (AC shutoff, temperature gauge on H) and I had it towed back to the garage for fear of burning up the engine.

Their analysis found that it was a failed Coolant Outlet Crossover Manifold. They changed that, intake manifold gasket and Thermostat. $2k before tax. They ran pressure overnight to ensure no leaks. They also drove it to test it and the temp gauge showed no major fluctuations.

I picked it up from the garage and drove it on the highway to test it. When approaching 60mph the temperature gauge starts running hot and I notice that the cooling fan is running hard to compensate. At one point it overheated and the AC shutoff. Each time it got hot, within seconds it showed a normal engine temp on the gauge. Then if I accelerated to 60mph it would run hot again and after letting off the gas it immediately returned to normal operating range on the temp gauge.

I tried to burp the radiator by revving the engine in neutral for 30 seconds, twice. I ensured there was plenty of coolant in the reservoir.

Another symptom: there is a large amount of coolant now coming from the radiator most likely the radiator's overflow hose (not to be confused with the overflow tank reservoir).

Dropped it back off at the garage tonight.
 
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doublethrow

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Update: radiator was leaking at the seam. They popped in a new radiator and the leak is no longer happening. They did not find exhaust in the coolant so that rules out a head gasket leak. But...
1) the temperature gauge is still fluctuating during accelerating albeit drops to normal range after a few seconds
2) the engine fan is running on high while driving
3) the heater is blowing air so hot it almost burns your hand.

Should I just change out the pump? I was thinking perhaps one of the fins in the impeller broke off and the pump can't keep up with the load with increase engine load.

IMG_20210713_165147426.jpgIMG_20210713_204659660.jpg
 

Hamfisted

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The waterpump is 4 bolts, quick and easy. Are you doing the work yourself ? I'm surprised the shop didn't pressure test it to begin with. I know there's many different grades of shops out there. The temp sending unit is under the intake manifold on the passenger side cylinder head toward the rear. It can be changed out without pulling the intake manifold, but the shop is probably gonna charge you for pulling the intake manifold anyway. Is the engine actually overheating? Or is it just the sending unit going crazy and causing the fan to run high and everything else ? Does it smell hot or crackle when you shut it down after this event ?



Replace CHT sensor without pulling intake manifold .... Ford 5.4 3V motor

Duralast SU8756 Sensor






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doublethrow

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The shop pressure tested overnight. No leaks. And no visible leaks now as far as I can tell.

The engine is showing hot on the gauge (see pics) sometimes under load but not always and only for a few seconds. The fan is running high after a 20 minute city commute but I don't see it overheating. No cackling after shutoff.
 
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doublethrow

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IMG_20210715_182929066.jpg
It overheats at highway speeds. AC on. Engine fan turns on high. Heater blowing extremely hot. I am thinking a water pump fin broke off or sending until is faulty. Thermostat is brand new OEM.
 

dcsang

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Orange coolant maintenance is 100K miles so if you're pulling the water pump you might want to consider flushing the system while you're at it. Motorcraft replaced it with yellow VC13 that's good for 200K miles, providing the system was completely flushed.
 
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doublethrow

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The garage said they flushed the system when they changed the radiator. In summary here is the work that was done:
1) Coolant Crossover replaced
2) Thermostat replaced
3) Radiator Replaced and new coolant

What else could be the issue?
 

dcsang

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The waterpump is 4 bolts, quick and easy. Are you doing the work yourself ? I'm surprised the shop didn't pressure test it to begin with. I know there's many different grades of shops out there. The temp sending unit is under the intake manifold on the passenger side cylinder head toward the rear. It can be changed out without pulling the intake manifold, but the shop is probably gonna charge you for pulling the intake manifold anyway. Is the engine actually overheating? Or is it just the sending unit going crazy and causing the fan to run high and everything else ? Does it smell hot or crackle when you shut it down after this event ?



Replace CHT sensor without pulling intake manifold .... Ford 5.4 3V motor
This is solid advice.
 

dcsang

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Are you doing this work yourself? OEM water pump and temp sensor isn't a big investment and can be replaced with a little time and effort. Is this a guaranteed resolution? No, but considering the information you have provided it is both logical and cost-effective to follow Hamfisted's advice. Also check the condition of your drive belt.

IDK the going rate in your area but 2K for the work you mentioned seems high, especially since your initial concern was not resolved.
 
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