Learning the Ropes with The 5.4 EB 2nd gen

[Gtempo]

Awesome Gents, Been bloody busy doing ERT/Offshore duties and will be heading back to the Philippines soon. Once again cheers brothers for the feedback, bloody sound advice from all of you!

Congrats on your Expedition. Yes, given all the money you're putting into your Expy your only alternative is to make it your forever vehicle

I've had my '04 Eddie Bauer 2 wheel drive with towing package for several years. I'll never get rid of it. I had to replace the tires, rear axles and sway bar links and I replaced the rotors and pads at the same time.

The only recurring problem I've had with mine is an overcharge condition which makes me nervous.

This summer I'll replace my leaking radiator and brake booster which whistles at me from time to time.

This is undoubtedly the best vehicle I've ever owned and I'm glad I bought it and not the Chevy Suburban I was looking for.

Yeh mate! This will definitely be something alil different cruising around Aus.

 

[Gtempo]

Congrats on your "new" Expy. I have had 3 main issues within mine:
1. Fuel tank has three plastic ports on the top (including fuel pump) and it becomes very brittle with age. There are a people that have posted pictures and videos on how they resolved it. For mine, we had to source a replacement tank and then apply the epoxy to get it to seal again, since the old tank was beyond repair. To test: fill tank FULLY and put on incline facing downhill (10 degrees+ and see if you have gasoline pouring out of the tank). Will most likely be throwing an EVAP System failure similar to the very common fuel cap codes.
2. Moldy smell in mine was being caused by 2 places not sealing... First was the back window seal (not the door, the window). With age, they shrink and don't fit anymore and rain will come in from the top. Second is the driver's side weep hole on top that drains into the A Pillar and into the floorboard instead of out through the door. It is usually caused by a plugged weep hole, and is still an issue with my truck.
3. AC Compressor failed at about 130k miles. I went with a full replacement and conversion to the R134 (original was R12 and not available anymore) and it has been a champ since that change. The old compressor still worked, but would squeak when engaged and figured I would replace/upgrade before full failure.

It isn't in my story, but my oldest son drove through about 200ft of barbed wire and fence posts using telephone poles 3ft into the ground, and all I had to do was remove the bumper and cosmetic pieces then replace the slashed tires. I have put another 30k miles on it since then without any real issues. I now have 215k miles on it, and it is solid as a rock. Cost of Ownership is amazingly low for a Ford, much less being 18yrs old. Enjoy!!

Hey CountrySplatt,
1. Yeh mate, i am a lil concern bout this being brittle. When i did the fuel filter change, one of the quick release plastic broke. I am trying to find out what the sizes are of these quick connector elbows 5/8 or 3/8?, also the rubber fuel lines. I'm trying to find out and order all the rubber lines/ quick connector sizes associated with the fuel tank but having trouble finding exactly at the moment.

2. Have found and ordered some weather stripping off https://www.fordpartsgiant.com for my rear door so its a step forward.Will definitely have a check of the weep hole when i get back too.

3. I have decided to order a A/C Compressor & Component Kit from rockauto plus afew electrical connectors/components for the A/C. I didn't want to stuff around and will just get everything new.

@Your Son assuming he came out of it safely and noone harmed what a lil legend, was he hungry or something? haha.
Cheers mate

 

[Gtempo]

YOU are a man of adventure !
Pull the windshield washer hoses off the washer pump and have an assistant hit the rear and front wash switch while you watch the washer pump outlets. If you see washer fluid jetting out of both pump outlets when selected you may have a broken rear washer tube somewhere in the cabin and that may be giving you that moldy smell. That has been an issue with some Expeditions. If no fluid jets out from the pumps rear outlet replace the pump.
You inspected the INNER tie rods for play right ? Because they wear out 3 to 1 over the outer tie rods.
The wheel hubs require engine vacuum to "free wheel" . So you have to test the hubs with vacuum applied ( engine running ? ).
There is also a brake caliper piston retraction spring on each caliper. Many shops and DIY'ers leave this spring off when doing brake pad replacements because they can't figure out how it gets re-installed. Make sure your calipers have this spring.
The previous owner was an idiot. Removing the front drive shaft and axles doesn't do squat for fuel mileage.
In that hot climate I would recommend a 10w-30 or 10w-40 synthetic oil and motorcraft filter. Not the 5w-20 stuff.
Inspect the front radiator support area for rust. This is a very common failure area of the front chasis. Spray it down with rust stop and inhibitor.

Did you already install the Dorman tranny pan ? I would've recommended the PML aluminum deep pan instead, especially for a 4x4 in that environment. Maybe in the future you'll be able to do the upgrade. You have the 4R100 tranny right ?

Ford 4R100 PML Deep Aluminum Trans Pan

Hey Hamfisted,

i will try to be! ive tried the pump mate, and the pump itself was seized so i swapped that out and still nothing coming out the back window. I will have to check out the washer tube in the cabin. Any chance you or anyone know of any drawings or info on where these lines run?

Tie rods have been replaced brand new.
Will test out the vacuum lines when i get back.
Im sure calipers are all good but shall check it out aswell.
Yup definitely an idiot alright..
Will definitely take the oil recommendation once in Auz mate.
Lucky for me this vehicle in terms of rust is almost flawless bloody awesome so the radiator is all good .
As for the tranny not yet mate will look into all this when i get back.

Cheers Brother!

 

[Gtempo]

Welcome to the forum. Just a couple of recommendations sue 5w-30 oil. The 5w-20 ford recommends was for them to meet certain federal criteria. The second is regarding the cold air intake. You may want to research if it would have any benefit on a stock engine. I have played around with different setups other than stock and ended up with no performance or MPG increase, in fact, it was the opposite, and now run the stock set up. Just my observations. Enloy

Hey Jb14,

Cheer matey!
So with the engine oil, Hamfisted (above comment) has suggested 10w-30 or 10w-40 synthetic oil for hotter climates . I mean i think i will be in the Philippines for another 1yr plus before coming back to Aus , do you reckon it will be all good to swap over to this oil immediately or just wait till going to Australia? What is your recommendation?
Yeh unfortunately i have already got the aftermarket cold air intake , just haven't installed it yet. will give it a go and see, at the very least it will sound a lil nicer ...maybe?. you are not the first to have observed such things and mentioned it to me mate. Fair call.

Cheers Brother

 

[Gtempo]

The fuel pump relays on the back side of the fuse panel circuit board are a known problem. Depending on how comfortable you are with soldering in the relay chip, a number of YouTube video's show the repair. If you are not comfortable with that, you can replace the panel. I did the former. If you remove the panel and inspect, you will see if it is overheating. You have the time and milage to do a precautionary replacement and it won't be wasted money. When it goes bad, the engine won't run. There are ways to get it home, but in your hot environment I would replace the panel.

Hey Blackcoffee,

I have on order a brand new fuel pump, and will also have a nosy at the panel when i get back.

 

[Gtempo]

Rebuilding the transfer case is pretty easy. Make sure your rebuild kit has the front seal between for the drive shaft to the front differentials. It develops leaks.

Also, check all the vacuum lines and check valves leading to the front hubs to make sure they are intake. There is a vent riser that looks like a broken hard line, but it is the vent.

Yeh mate, will be ordering the axles, drive shaft and master overhaul kit to sort this out , will definitely check out what you have mentioned.

Appreciate your insights mate. Bloody legend!

 

[Jb14]

@Gtempo I switched to the full synthetic 5-30 some time back and do not have experience with going up to the 40wt so I cannot comment on the use or effects of that weight. I chose the 5-30 for a couple of reasons as it relates to the engine that for me (which may not be actual) was my thought process regarding the tolerances of the engine and the VVT solenoid screen is very fine plus some of the other components getting proper oiling during start up.

I have over 300k on my stock engine build from the factory including cam phasers so I have been satisfied with my choice and thought process. Oh I did change out the VVT solenoids, not because they went out I just heard the screens get clogged so I changed out a few years back.

All the best on your travels