Lifting a 2008 - Tire/wheel questions

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briandye

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The lift is done! Currently at the tire shop getting the new tires on and alignment. (Nitto Terra Grappler G2’s)

So everything went very very straightforward, and fairly easy. I kept that stage3motorsports install video handy for some pointers.

The issues I had: the front passenger wheel had the lug nuts torqued down to 1500 ft/lbs (or so it seemed). I needed those giant sockets (I rented a kit from Advance with big ones, 30mm was the main one), I actually broke my 8(?) year old cheap 2’ 1/2 drive breaker bar on the front passenger lower shock bolt. Improvised with a 1/2” ratchet and my floor jacks 5’ handle. Worked WONDERS.

I started at 100% motivation. Just getting that passenger side tire off, taking an hour dropped my motivation to very little. I powered through that side, and the drivers side. By this time, it had already been 3-4 hours as I had to wait on a friend to pick me up and run me across town for those sockets and tools. Also stopped for food, because I was hangry as hell.

Fronts done - start on the rear. Should be way easier right? Nah. That rear-most/inner upper nut on each side was the worst part of the whole install. I could barely get enough leverage after scraping rust and corrosion off and getting the wrench to slide fully down, finally broke it loose and it’s so cramped that I got about 1/4 of a turn with each turn of the wrench.

By this time it was pitch black outside and damn near 9:30. Got it off, got the lower nut/bolt off and then took the inner lower control arm but/bolt off. The video said to loosen the lower ball joint nut, but I skipped that part. It may have made it a bit more challenging to get that arm lined back up and get the bolt through, but I didn’t have a socket that fit, of course. Nothing a small floor jack couldn’t work around. Used that to push the arms back up into place. I don’t recommend that, because if they slide off the jack, that’s a lot of tension against it.

Finished up the suspension stuff on that side and called it a night. I was unbelievably sore, tired, and wet from the gravel driveway and all the rain the day before. Woke up even more sore, but with a fresh clear head, so I went back out and got the other rear side done in a fraction of the time. That upper rear bolt was still the biggest pain out of the whole install.

I’m sitting at home so antsy to get the call that it’s done. Also got a lifetime alignment so I can get it realigned anytime for free which is cool. I plan on overhauling most of the stuff this summer, ball joints, tie rod ends, upper control arms, etc just as preventative maintenance because some of the stuff is at a pretty good angle now.

Thanks guys for all your help!
 
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briandye

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She’s back home! I must’ve been the last damn vehicle they pulled in today. Close at 6, I picked it up at 5:55 lol.

Rides a bit stiffer with the lift and bigger tires, but nothing I didn’t expect.

How do you fix the speedometer on these? It’s newer so I assume a tuner? I don’t really have money to fork over for that right now. Can Forscan change it? Or the dealer?
 

J Ski

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She’s back home! I must’ve been the last damn vehicle they pulled in today. Close at 6, I picked it up at 5:55 lol.

Rides a bit stiffer with the lift and bigger tires, but nothing I didn’t expect.

How do you fix the speedometer on these? It’s newer so I assume a tuner? I don’t really have money to fork over for that right now. Can Forscan change it? Or the dealer?
Gotta either have stealership do it or get a speedo calibrator. Trying to decide on what to do with mine still
 
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briandye

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I’d love a programmer, but they tend to be what, $300+ on the low end? Definitely not in the budget right now. When I was younger, having the speedo off never bothered me. Now it does for some reason lol. Maybe because most of those cars were always old beaters.

I’ll have to call Ford Monday and see what they’d charge. Probably 1 hour of labor for 5 minutes on the IDS program.
 

J Ski

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I’d love a programmer, but they tend to be what, $300+ on the low end? Definitely not in the budget right now. When I was younger, having the speedo off never bothered me. Now it does for some reason lol. Maybe because most of those cars were always old beaters.

I’ll have to call Ford Monday and see what they’d charge. Probably 1 hour of labor for 5 minutes on the IDS program.
$110 is what they quoted me. That’s labor and they said it would take 10mins
 

Adieu

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The lift is done! Currently at the tire shop getting the new tires on and alignment. (Nitto Terra Grappler G2’s)

So everything went very very straightforward, and fairly easy. I kept that stage3motorsports install video handy for some pointers.

The issues I had: the front passenger wheel had the lug nuts torqued down to 1500 ft/lbs (or so it seemed). I needed those giant sockets (I rented a kit from Advance with big ones, 30mm was the main one), I actually broke my 8(?) year old cheap 2’ 1/2 drive breaker bar on the front passenger lower shock bolt. Improvised with a 1/2” ratchet and my floor jacks 5’ handle. Worked WONDERS.

I started at 100% motivation. Just getting that passenger side tire off, taking an hour dropped my motivation to very little. I powered through that side, and the drivers side. By this time, it had already been 3-4 hours as I had to wait on a friend to pick me up and run me across town for those sockets and tools. Also stopped for food, because I was hangry as hell.

Fronts done - start on the rear. Should be way easier right? Nah. That rear-most/inner upper nut on each side was the worst part of the whole install. I could barely get enough leverage after scraping rust and corrosion off and getting the wrench to slide fully down, finally broke it loose and it’s so cramped that I got about 1/4 of a turn with each turn of the wrench.

By this time it was pitch black outside and damn near 9:30. Got it off, got the lower nut/bolt off and then took the inner lower control arm but/bolt off. The video said to loosen the lower ball joint nut, but I skipped that part. It may have made it a bit more challenging to get that arm lined back up and get the bolt through, but I didn’t have a socket that fit, of course. Nothing a small floor jack couldn’t work around. Used that to push the arms back up into place. I don’t recommend that, because if they slide off the jack, that’s a lot of tension against it.

Finished up the suspension stuff on that side and called it a night. I was unbelievably sore, tired, and wet from the gravel driveway and all the rain the day before. Woke up even more sore, but with a fresh clear head, so I went back out and got the other rear side done in a fraction of the time. That upper rear bolt was still the biggest pain out of the whole install.

I’m sitting at home so antsy to get the call that it’s done. Also got a lifetime alignment so I can get it realigned anytime for free which is cool. I plan on overhauling most of the stuff this summer, ball joints, tie rod ends, upper control arms, etc just as preventative maintenance because some of the stuff is at a pretty good angle now.

Thanks guys for all your help!

Yeah, sorry, it's *****...


None of us like to admit it cuz the adverts from Rancho/Bilstein/spacer manufacturers/etc all claim something like 2 hours for 4 corners, and we think that we were probably just incompetent going about it and keep quiet....
 
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briandye

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$110 is what they quoted me. That’s labor and they said it would take 10mins
My God thats ridiculous. I might see if I can find any friends of friends that can do it for me. Over on the Crown Vic groups, alot of them have access to the IDS system and can do stuff like that (The P71's big option is swapping out a steering wheel with cruise control buttons, and then having Ford "turn it on") which I would assume is very similar to what they would do to adjust a speedo.


Yeah, sorry, it's *****...


None of us like to admit it cuz the adverts from Rancho/Bilstein/spacer manufacturers/etc all claim something like 2 hours for 4 corners, and we think that we were probably just incompetent going about it and keep quiet....

LOL, no worries. Its done. Im happy. Honestly, it wasn't that bad, and would've taken half the time if I had the right size sockets, and all the wheels came off like they should have. Just that inner-most bolt, and aligning the rear control arm back in place. Sweet Jesus I am sore though.
 

AllBoostNoEco

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FORScan has the ability to change tire size on the 15-17. Probably can do it on the older ones as well.
I’m not sure what line it is on the older trucks, so you’d have to figure that out, but it’s a simple hex conversion to change it.
 
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briandye

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I can get some pics soon, with the death of Photobucket, it’s kind of a PITA when I’m not on my computer.

So I’m really stoked about how it looks, I truly am in love, but I’m really not happy at all with how it rides and drives.

I posted a different post already for this, no replies yet, but I’m having a pretty bad bump steer problem. When the road has multiple bumps/potholes, etc, my steering wheel wants to turn in every direction. It’s really annoying with sh*t Michigan roads. I don’t know if this is normal for lifted vehicles? I can’t imagine it is, as I hear nothing about it.

The much bigger issue I’m having is highway gear hunting. (70~ mph) With the stock tires, I noticed this thing would downshift a gear (or is that shifting out of OD?) everytime there was any incline and I have the cruise set. It wasn’t bad with the stock tires, but it was there. Now with the larger tires, a small gust of wind from a semi makes the thing downshift. It was windy the other morning on my way to work and it pretty much stayed at 2,000 RPMs most of the way there, when it would shift into whatever final gear it is, and drop down to 1500-1600 RPMs, it would downshift very shortly after.

Is my only option here to fix this a rearend re-gear? The gears aren’t expensive, but Shop labor seems to be $1300+ for such a task, and I can’t afford that. I’ll literally return to stock height with small tires before doing that. (Or buy a cheap beater to drive to work for the time) Would a tuner change anything?

I never saw any mention of this when I asked about lifting, and tire sizes. Everyone said there’s minimal change in the ride (nope, mine is stiff as hell) and with 35’s - a little power loss, and speedo off, which I have but doesn’t bother me, since I didn’t buy this thing for speed. Just the gear hunting and bump steer.

The gear hunting had me wanting to park it and walk to work lol. Sorry, had to go on a little rant/vent session there. It bums me out how good it looks but having these issues.
 

Adieu

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LT tires ride like shit, sure

But the steering issue, see if that isn't something not torqued down right up front and/or loose balljoints maybe?
 

Sccritterkiller

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I would try getting your speedo calibrated b4 I regeared see if it helps your shift points....I regeared my Jeep it's a job and if you have 4wd you have to do front axle too...steering issue is bad/loose ball joints or tire rod ends...not enough lift with blocks to effect pitman angle....especially if you got it aligned after the lift...I drove mine for a few days with the lift and stock tires...it was a little different.I could tell alignment was out by how much road noise the tires were making..lol..after new tires and alignment good as new.
 
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mcloven

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you probably have the 3.31 gears. you can get some 3.73 diffs off ebay with decent miles for 3-400 shipped. thats what im going to do once i get some larger tires.
 

lvcjt702

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This may have been mentioned earlier but what is your axle code?

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Knox GSL

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I can get some pics soon, with the death of Photobucket, it’s kind of a PITA when I’m not on my computer.

So I’m really stoked about how it looks, I truly am in love, but I’m really not happy at all with how it rides and drives.

I posted a different post already for this, no replies yet, but I’m having a pretty bad bump steer problem. When the road has multiple bumps/potholes, etc, my steering wheel wants to turn in every direction. It’s really annoying with sh*t Michigan roads. I don’t know if this is normal for lifted vehicles? I can’t imagine it is, as I hear nothing about it.

The much bigger issue I’m having is highway gear hunting. (70~ mph) With the stock tires, I noticed this thing would downshift a gear (or is that shifting out of OD?) everytime there was any incline and I have the cruise set. It wasn’t bad with the stock tires, but it was there. Now with the larger tires, a small gust of wind from a semi makes the thing downshift. It was windy the other morning on my way to work and it pretty much stayed at 2,000 RPMs most of the way there, when it would shift into whatever final gear it is, and drop down to 1500-1600 RPMs, it would downshift very shortly after.

Is my only option here to fix this a rearend re-gear? The gears aren’t expensive, but Shop labor seems to be $1300+ for such a task, and I can’t afford that. I’ll literally return to stock height with small tires before doing that. (Or buy a cheap beater to drive to work for the time) Would a tuner change anything?

I never saw any mention of this when I asked about lifting, and tire sizes. Everyone said there’s minimal change in the ride (nope, mine is stiff as hell) and with 35’s - a little power loss, and speedo off, which I have but doesn’t bother me, since I didn’t buy this thing for speed. Just the gear hunting and bump steer.

The gear hunting had me wanting to park it and walk to work lol. Sorry, had to go on a little rant/vent session there. It bums me out how good it looks but having these issues.
Mine drove like crap after the lift but has gotten better or we got used to it. I used a wider than stick tire but the same diameter so no issues with shift points or regearing. She does chug the gas though.
 
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briandye

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I never even considered just finding a differently geared diff to swap in. Im doing the exact same thing to my P71 right now, I cant believe it didn't cross my mind, lol.

I am waiting on my OBDII adapter (needed one with the MS/HS switch) to come in tomorrow and I should be able to get my speedometer dialed in. I too wondered if that might help with the shift points.

My axle code is "15" which seems to bring up multiple axles when I search on Google. I do believe I have the HD towing package if that makes a difference, I have both the factory 4 pin and 7 pin trailer plugs.


This is a 3.73 axle with 100k on it, would this be a direct swap? That price isn't bad at all. I know ill drink more gas, but to get a little more pep, and make the trans happy when cruising, its worth it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-Ford-...ash=item4d602bb099:g:aYUAAOSwlpZaVrAw&vxp=mtr
 
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