Lifting a 2008 - Tire/wheel questions

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briandye

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The lift is done! Currently at the tire shop getting the new tires on and alignment. (Nitto Terra Grappler G2’s)

So everything went very very straightforward, and fairly easy. I kept that stage3motorsports install video handy for some pointers.

The issues I had: the front passenger wheel had the lug nuts torqued down to 1500 ft/lbs (or so it seemed). I needed those giant sockets (I rented a kit from Advance with big ones, 30mm was the main one), I actually broke my 8(?) year old cheap 2’ 1/2 drive breaker bar on the front passenger lower shock bolt. Improvised with a 1/2” ratchet and my floor jacks 5’ handle. Worked WONDERS.

I started at 100% motivation. Just getting that passenger side tire off, taking an hour dropped my motivation to very little. I powered through that side, and the drivers side. By this time, it had already been 3-4 hours as I had to wait on a friend to pick me up and run me across town for those sockets and tools. Also stopped for food, because I was hangry as hell.

Fronts done - start on the rear. Should be way easier right? Nah. That rear-most/inner upper nut on each side was the worst part of the whole install. I could barely get enough leverage after scraping rust and corrosion off and getting the wrench to slide fully down, finally broke it loose and it’s so cramped that I got about 1/4 of a turn with each turn of the wrench.

By this time it was pitch black outside and damn near 9:30. Got it off, got the lower nut/bolt off and then took the inner lower control arm but/bolt off. The video said to loosen the lower ball joint nut, but I skipped that part. It may have made it a bit more challenging to get that arm lined back up and get the bolt through, but I didn’t have a socket that fit, of course. Nothing a small floor jack couldn’t work around. Used that to push the arms back up into place. I don’t recommend that, because if they slide off the jack, that’s a lot of tension against it.

Finished up the suspension stuff on that side and called it a night. I was unbelievably sore, tired, and wet from the gravel driveway and all the rain the day before. Woke up even more sore, but with a fresh clear head, so I went back out and got the other rear side done in a fraction of the time. That upper rear bolt was still the biggest pain out of the whole install.

I’m sitting at home so antsy to get the call that it’s done. Also got a lifetime alignment so I can get it realigned anytime for free which is cool. I plan on overhauling most of the stuff this summer, ball joints, tie rod ends, upper control arms, etc just as preventative maintenance because some of the stuff is at a pretty good angle now.

Thanks guys for all your help!
 
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briandye

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She’s back home! I must’ve been the last damn vehicle they pulled in today. Close at 6, I picked it up at 5:55 lol.

Rides a bit stiffer with the lift and bigger tires, but nothing I didn’t expect.

How do you fix the speedometer on these? It’s newer so I assume a tuner? I don’t really have money to fork over for that right now. Can Forscan change it? Or the dealer?
 

J Ski

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She’s back home! I must’ve been the last damn vehicle they pulled in today. Close at 6, I picked it up at 5:55 lol.

Rides a bit stiffer with the lift and bigger tires, but nothing I didn’t expect.

How do you fix the speedometer on these? It’s newer so I assume a tuner? I don’t really have money to fork over for that right now. Can Forscan change it? Or the dealer?
Gotta either have stealership do it or get a speedo calibrator. Trying to decide on what to do with mine still
 
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briandye

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I’d love a programmer, but they tend to be what, $300+ on the low end? Definitely not in the budget right now. When I was younger, having the speedo off never bothered me. Now it does for some reason lol. Maybe because most of those cars were always old beaters.

I’ll have to call Ford Monday and see what they’d charge. Probably 1 hour of labor for 5 minutes on the IDS program.
 

J Ski

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I’d love a programmer, but they tend to be what, $300+ on the low end? Definitely not in the budget right now. When I was younger, having the speedo off never bothered me. Now it does for some reason lol. Maybe because most of those cars were always old beaters.

I’ll have to call Ford Monday and see what they’d charge. Probably 1 hour of labor for 5 minutes on the IDS program.
$110 is what they quoted me. That’s labor and they said it would take 10mins
 

Adieu

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The lift is done! Currently at the tire shop getting the new tires on and alignment. (Nitto Terra Grappler G2’s)

So everything went very very straightforward, and fairly easy. I kept that stage3motorsports install video handy for some pointers.

The issues I had: the front passenger wheel had the lug nuts torqued down to 1500 ft/lbs (or so it seemed). I needed those giant sockets (I rented a kit from Advance with big ones, 30mm was the main one), I actually broke my 8(?) year old cheap 2’ 1/2 drive breaker bar on the front passenger lower shock bolt. Improvised with a 1/2” ratchet and my floor jacks 5’ handle. Worked WONDERS.

I started at 100% motivation. Just getting that passenger side tire off, taking an hour dropped my motivation to very little. I powered through that side, and the drivers side. By this time, it had already been 3-4 hours as I had to wait on a friend to pick me up and run me across town for those sockets and tools. Also stopped for food, because I was hangry as hell.

Fronts done - start on the rear. Should be way easier right? Nah. That rear-most/inner upper nut on each side was the worst part of the whole install. I could barely get enough leverage after scraping rust and corrosion off and getting the wrench to slide fully down, finally broke it loose and it’s so cramped that I got about 1/4 of a turn with each turn of the wrench.

By this time it was pitch black outside and damn near 9:30. Got it off, got the lower nut/bolt off and then took the inner lower control arm but/bolt off. The video said to loosen the lower ball joint nut, but I skipped that part. It may have made it a bit more challenging to get that arm lined back up and get the bolt through, but I didn’t have a socket that fit, of course. Nothing a small floor jack couldn’t work around. Used that to push the arms back up into place. I don’t recommend that, because if they slide off the jack, that’s a lot of tension against it.

Finished up the suspension stuff on that side and called it a night. I was unbelievably sore, tired, and wet from the gravel driveway and all the rain the day before. Woke up even more sore, but with a fresh clear head, so I went back out and got the other rear side done in a fraction of the time. That upper rear bolt was still the biggest pain out of the whole install.

I’m sitting at home so antsy to get the call that it’s done. Also got a lifetime alignment so I can get it realigned anytime for free which is cool. I plan on overhauling most of the stuff this summer, ball joints, tie rod ends, upper control arms, etc just as preventative maintenance because some of the stuff is at a pretty good angle now.

Thanks guys for all your help!

Yeah, sorry, it's *****...


None of us like to admit it cuz the adverts from Rancho/Bilstein/spacer manufacturers/etc all claim something like 2 hours for 4 corners, and we think that we were probably just incompetent going about it and keep quiet....
 
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briandye

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$110 is what they quoted me. That’s labor and they said it would take 10mins
My God thats ridiculous. I might see if I can find any friends of friends that can do it for me. Over on the Crown Vic groups, alot of them have access to the IDS system and can do stuff like that (The P71's big option is swapping out a steering wheel with cruise control buttons, and then having Ford "turn it on") which I would assume is very similar to what they would do to adjust a speedo.


Yeah, sorry, it's *****...


None of us like to admit it cuz the adverts from Rancho/Bilstein/spacer manufacturers/etc all claim something like 2 hours for 4 corners, and we think that we were probably just incompetent going about it and keep quiet....

LOL, no worries. Its done. Im happy. Honestly, it wasn't that bad, and would've taken half the time if I had the right size sockets, and all the wheels came off like they should have. Just that inner-most bolt, and aligning the rear control arm back in place. Sweet Jesus I am sore though.
 

AllBoostNoEco

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FORScan has the ability to change tire size on the 15-17. Probably can do it on the older ones as well.
I’m not sure what line it is on the older trucks, so you’d have to figure that out, but it’s a simple hex conversion to change it.
 
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