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maxxplatinum9137

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Boostedbus

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I just bought a coolant evacuation tool to use on both of my 2017 Fords (Expedition and Explorer) to change out the orange coolant over to the new yellow. My Ford tech buddy told me about the tool and how it makes it simple not to get an air lock so I ordered it on Amazon. I’ll be able to use it on my work trucks also, so I justified buying it.
 

Boostedbus

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Nice find can you give a link to the tool?
I forgot how to attach a link so I just screenshot from my Amazon cart. There’s another brand that was about half the price but the reviews said it was prone to leaking. My Ford tech buddy says you connect to your system from radiator or recovery tank, connect your compressed air line and it pulls a vacuum on the system totally draining it out one of the hoses on the tool. You can also see if there are any leaks in the system if the vacuum does not hold once you unhook the airline and shut the valve. After it’s drained and the system is still under vacuum then you stick the hose on the tool with the sump screen into a bucket of the new coolant and open that valve. The vacuum will pull all the new coolant back into the system and you are done. I just received it so I’ll let you know how it goes when I get around to using it hopefully in the next week or so.EBAC9965-7FEC-481E-AC5A-15EDE5EAEC92.pngACDA2554-31EE-4164-93B2-40BEC0B95563.png
 
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Thomas D

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OP here.
Had the expedition at the repair shop all day and they couldn’t get it to leak. Put it on lift and applied pressure to system but nothing.
He showed me several hoses that are usual culprits and I will keep checking.
 

99WhiteC5Coupe

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OP here.
Had the expedition at the repair shop all day and they couldn’t get it to leak. Put it on lift and applied pressure to system but nothing.
He showed me several hoses that are usual culprits and I will keep checking.


When my 2015 Expedition began loosing coolant at 75, *** miles, I took it to my Ford dealer.

They were unable to find the leak, and told me they pressure tested the system. I took the vehicle home.

The coolant continued to drop in the reservoir, and I returned to the same dealer - and insisted they do a good visual inspection (I have undergone 4 major surgeries and can no longer do the mechanical work I used to).

The technician put the car on a lift and saw coolant residue around the water pump. With the engine off, the pressure would not drop with the pressure tester. The water pump only leaked when the engine was running.

The dealer replaced the water pump and pulley, and that cured the leak.

Prior to this repair - I had coolant leaking slowly at about 60,*** miles. The dealer pressure tested the system with no result. Then the technician wiggled several coolant fittings that were known to him to fail - the nipple with a metal insert on the coolant reservoir bottle (degas bottle?) and another hose fitting. Both leaked when wiggled, and were replaced under my extended warranty.
 
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Thomas D

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Thanks.
I’ll check that out.
I’m trying to stay away from the Ford dealer, but might have to suck it up and go.
I’ll do a good visual first.
 

maxxplatinum9137

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@Thomas D

Did you check the areas I told you to check? Unless this person you took it to is an ecoboost mechanic, he’s probably got no clue where to look. I’ll bet it leaks like a sieve after it sits overnight and you start it up the next morning
 

pratik

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Thanks.
I’ll check that out.
I’m trying to stay away from the Ford dealer, but might have to suck it up and go.
I’ll do a good visual first.
Hey!

Just seeing this thread. It might be tangentially related but figured it might be helpful to others so please be patient:
TL/DR: coolant hose leak at T (tee) at high RPM only - replaced T after cutting/removing the plastic part and replacing it with 3/4" tee from Lowes/home depot for 5 bucks and secured it with original tubing with 3 hose clamps ($2 each). Done! Pic attached.WhatsApp Image 2022-02-28 at 9.56.00 AM.jpeg
Long story:
- Bought 2013 Expi EL XLT with 200k in June 2021 from a used car dealer (Neptune Auto Sales, Virginia Beach, VA - KUDOS to them for working with me!)
- Blinking engine sign within a month, stalled at freeway, dealers were booked for weeks, to towed it home and plugged in OBD2 scanner and learned that it was engine misfire (P0302)
- Local mechanic shop said that piston 2 was damaged by the spring from one of the valves that snapped and went in the chamber and made hole in the piston 2. This would basically need serious repairs/engine replacement (~6k total)
- Luckily found an engine (65k miles) in a nearby town from Lincoln Navigator 2014 that had its left head damaged by the rest of the engine looked fine, bought it and replaced it with my damaged engine, keeping the left head (cylinders 5-8) from the old engine. While at the shop, also changed tranni fluid and also rear differential oil and now the car is driving like a new one!!! (total expenses were below 4k, of which 2k were chipped in by Neptune Auto Sales exclusively out of goodwill for the car that was sold "as is" and I can't be thankful enough!!!)
- After a few weeks, the engine heated up (shown on indicator), car slowed down and came to a stop, with coolant leaking on the road. Turns out, there was a loose connection of hose with the radiator. A strong push on the hose by holding it in hand and jabbing it towards radiator gave click sound, and the coolant is not leaking any more (in the hind sight, the mechanic must've not pushed it hard enough after putting the radiator back on after engine replacement)
- After a few weeks, the dreaded blinking engine sign came back on, immediately after high RPM (on the freeway, Expi was on cruise control, and tried to get back to set speed after a slow car in front changed the lane, leading the tachometer show the engine going up from 1 krpm to 5 krpm!), and soon the sign disappeared, P0304 displayed on OBD, and coolant was visibly lower level on the reservoir.
- Brought Expi back to the mechanic, he opened the hood while the engine running, asked me to press gas pedal hard, and as the rpm increased, there was a leak spray from the T (tee) junction of the hose - this spray was basically drenching the passenger side head (pistons 1-4)
- Removed the plastic T (tee) by cutting it with dremel, making sure not to cut the hose, and replaced it with a brass 3/4" T from Lowes (see pic). No more leaks!
- Blinking engine sign kept coming at multiple instances after high RMP (>4 krpm) with P0304 on OBD - so replaced the spark plug and the coil (for free, from the extra coils and spark plugs salvaged from the older engine, remember?), and now car doesn't have any issues after months of driving! (so far...)
- In the hind sight, the leaking of coolant on the engine might have been happening for a while, and has water damaged/shorted the coil (P0304) and leaked to the spark plug (seals of the coil are not perfect) and might have caused differential temperatures on the engine leading to valve malfunction and the spring of the valve shotting in the combustion chamber and damaging piston (P0302)
- The plastic T (tee) and Y (yee) connections, and any plastic parts on the coolant piping should be replaced with metal, as plastic might eventually give up (oxidized, brittled, and eventually leaked or a full-blown crack). I saw a lot of black residue on my coolant reservoir, which felt like gooey stuff from molten plastic, and am pretty sure it came from the T (tee) that failed and was leaking - basically it seemed that the hot coolant was melting this aged piece of plastic!

Hope this helps someone :)

Best wishes,
Pratik
 
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