Denethor
Full Access Members
2011 XL SSV(police package) 4x4
225k miles
Hit a deer 3 months ago and have been fighting with insurance, then weather stopped me from working on it.
I removed all of these components from driver side for reference:
headlight
Front fender
Fender liner
Driver door
rear tail light
3rd brake light
Replaced door with a junkyard door from a 08 Navigator and swapped in all my locks, keyless entry, wiring harness, and speaker. So the only things I kept from junkyard door are the metal skin, glass, and window regulator and motor (seemed to work smoother than my old one did).
I have not replaced the fender yet because I wanted to road noise test fit the door before putting the fender back on. You can't get to the door hinges without removing fender.
Since the lights were damaged I went with newer LED style with the resistors and such to not mess with the systems that detect blown bulbs and such. They seem to work fine and the vehicle does not complain about them. Just information on what all was done so far, incase any of it matters.
After getting all the door wiring done, I tested all the door switches and locks, ect, seemed fine.
Then I tried the auto up on the driver door. It went like 90% of the way up and stopped. After that auto never worked again. you could manually roll the windows up and down just fine, but no auto.
I left it alone for a few weeks due to work travel and bad weather.
went out today to try and wrap things up and road test it.
Figured I'd try rolling all the windows down and hold until current limit activates. Auto UP started working again but stopped at the 90% again. But remained working this time and I can manually roll it up the last 10% with no strain on the motor, its not binding up is what I'm saying.
Read online you have to initialize the auto windows after any changes and even watched a youtube video on the process.
Door open, key in the ON positon
Cylcle key OFF to ON 5 times
Hold window down until window is down and until you hear click after down (over current cutoff)
Hold window switch up until window is up and hear click again.
cycling the key 5x is not getting me in to the "learn mode" because supposedly if it works the first press of the down window button wont do anything.
So, I give up on the window and go to test drive it so I finish up and at least get fender back on or make adjustments to door if needed.
Get in, start the engine, won't shift out of park.
Brake lights work, so brake switch is working. It sounds like I hear the brake interlock solenoid click when i grab the shifter button.
Tried as few starts, tried shifting not started, won't budge (key on, you should be able to shift to N for a tow right?)
Next I tried remote starting, fired right up. Got in and noticed the engine didn't cutoff like it used to when stepped on the brake before putting the key in. I put the key in and turned to start, you hear it initialize everything, so it recognizes the key security chip.
Go to turn the engine off, and the engine keeps running with no key???
I couldn't stop the engine except by remote starting again which does normal kill the engine if its already running.
If I start the engine with the key it turns off with the key. If start with remote or keyless pad on door. I can't turn the engine off with the key.
Must be some connection between all of this???
possible the ignition switch itself is going bad and not registering the "learning" mode?
i do know the brake interlock is tied to the remote start as well so someone can't hop in and drive off with no key, but even with the key its not unlocking.
Any help would be apreciated
225k miles
Hit a deer 3 months ago and have been fighting with insurance, then weather stopped me from working on it.
I removed all of these components from driver side for reference:
headlight
Front fender
Fender liner
Driver door
rear tail light
3rd brake light
Replaced door with a junkyard door from a 08 Navigator and swapped in all my locks, keyless entry, wiring harness, and speaker. So the only things I kept from junkyard door are the metal skin, glass, and window regulator and motor (seemed to work smoother than my old one did).
I have not replaced the fender yet because I wanted to road noise test fit the door before putting the fender back on. You can't get to the door hinges without removing fender.
Since the lights were damaged I went with newer LED style with the resistors and such to not mess with the systems that detect blown bulbs and such. They seem to work fine and the vehicle does not complain about them. Just information on what all was done so far, incase any of it matters.
After getting all the door wiring done, I tested all the door switches and locks, ect, seemed fine.
Then I tried the auto up on the driver door. It went like 90% of the way up and stopped. After that auto never worked again. you could manually roll the windows up and down just fine, but no auto.
I left it alone for a few weeks due to work travel and bad weather.
went out today to try and wrap things up and road test it.
Figured I'd try rolling all the windows down and hold until current limit activates. Auto UP started working again but stopped at the 90% again. But remained working this time and I can manually roll it up the last 10% with no strain on the motor, its not binding up is what I'm saying.
Read online you have to initialize the auto windows after any changes and even watched a youtube video on the process.
Door open, key in the ON positon
Cylcle key OFF to ON 5 times
Hold window down until window is down and until you hear click after down (over current cutoff)
Hold window switch up until window is up and hear click again.
cycling the key 5x is not getting me in to the "learn mode" because supposedly if it works the first press of the down window button wont do anything.
So, I give up on the window and go to test drive it so I finish up and at least get fender back on or make adjustments to door if needed.
Get in, start the engine, won't shift out of park.
Brake lights work, so brake switch is working. It sounds like I hear the brake interlock solenoid click when i grab the shifter button.
Tried as few starts, tried shifting not started, won't budge (key on, you should be able to shift to N for a tow right?)
Next I tried remote starting, fired right up. Got in and noticed the engine didn't cutoff like it used to when stepped on the brake before putting the key in. I put the key in and turned to start, you hear it initialize everything, so it recognizes the key security chip.
Go to turn the engine off, and the engine keeps running with no key???
I couldn't stop the engine except by remote starting again which does normal kill the engine if its already running.
If I start the engine with the key it turns off with the key. If start with remote or keyless pad on door. I can't turn the engine off with the key.
Must be some connection between all of this???
possible the ignition switch itself is going bad and not registering the "learning" mode?
i do know the brake interlock is tied to the remote start as well so someone can't hop in and drive off with no key, but even with the key its not unlocking.
Any help would be apreciated
