My '05 3 Valve plug changing experience.

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darmahsd

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'Been stressing out over this one, reading everything I can, watching
You Tubes and getting the Ford TSB.
Finally did it, with 105 thousand miles and the engine starting to
skip. My decision was to go with the hot engine, impact wrench
method, which there are a number of YouTubes. I particularly
like anything Bob Bielawski, Ford Tech Makuloco makes. Watch this one: He originally did one using the TSB, cold engine, crack open 1/4
turn and pour carb cleaner/thread loosening solution.
People were still breaking plugs. I modified the hot engine, impact gun technique by cutting a piece of 3/4 inch conduit the length of the special Ford 9/16 spark plug socket. This is placed down the sparkplug tube before the socket to steady any sideloads from the
spinning impact wrench which might result in breakage. Because
there is a slight step in the plug tube, you need to put a piece of
non adhesive shrink tubing 2/3rds of the way down the conduit for the tightest fit. I couldn't get a stubby impact like Bob had, so I had to make do with a Harbor Freight cordless 3/8 drive Earthquake
wrench with U joint and extentions. You can't zip them up and out like the video shows when you use these tools, so that's why the conduit is important. Probably the most important and first step
in the process is a couple of hundred miles of running 2 cans, 32oz.
of Seafoam to 16 gallons of gas. When I removed all eight plugs without breaking them, they had no carbon on them, just rust.
I did one bank of the engine at a time, then warmed the engine up again for the other half. Total time, with cleaning and prepping the coil boots with silicon grease and antiseize on updated SP-546 Motocraft plugs took less than 3 hours. 3valve Triton engines
won't run at their best using those one piece Champion plugs
according to most opinions. They don't have the electrode strap.
Hope this is some help to someone ready to do the job, my results were successful doing it this way.
Stephen
 

johnboneske

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Dis the shrink tubing go on the inside or outside of the 3/4" conduit? Also is the conduit standard EMT? Just making sure, since there are many types of conduit...

Are the SP-546's the recommended plugs? Are they single or double Platinum? What about a Iridium?

I don't have a 3v early motor, just try and retain info others so I can help them. Thank you!
 
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darmahsd

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Standard EMT conduit. Shrink tubing on outside 2/3 length of conduit. Plug tunnel is wider at top and tighter towards the plug. Conduit steadies the socket, especially on back two plugs where you need U joints for the impact gun to be at an angle. Stay with Motocraft. SP-546 is
still two piece & insulator, but supposedly much improved. The antisieze will help them come out the next time @ 200+K.
 

JExpedition07

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Standard EMT conduit. Shrink tubing on outside 2/3 length of conduit. Plug tunnel is wider at top and tighter towards the plug. Conduit steadies the socket, especially on back two plugs where you need U joints for the impact gun to be at an angle. Stay with Motocraft. SP-546 is
still two piece & insulator, but supposedly much improved. The antisieze will help them come out the next time @ 200+K.

The SP-546 plugs are one piece not two. Previous SP-515 was one piece as well. Originals were 3 piece plugs.
 
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darmahsd

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The one piece Motorcrafts are for
Tritons after 10/07. If you check with Motocraft, there will be no debate. Only one piece is Champion with a conventionale electrode, no strap. I just put SP-546 in, a they are still 2 piece, the tube below the thread with electrode strap and the thread, 9/16 hex. If you throw in the ceramic, its three pieces total. I'm thinking SP 515's are the same, just improved. Ford's not going to make a one piece plug for early 3 valves, that would just be admitting their big mistake in the head design. Not sure about those E3's. They're probably one piece too.
 
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darmahsd

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That's good information about antiseize. I will compensate by
going to the lower end of the torque range and by considering what extensions or U joints I'm using. 'Haven't had a problem in years, even with aluminum heads. If not comfortable with antiseize on the plug threads, with the early 3 Valve Triton, it's important really for the part below the threads with the electrode strap. You're coating the sides
(not the electrode) to keep the carbon and rust from building up, causing that part of the plug to stay fused in the head, breaking away from the thread and ceramic.
 

JExpedition07

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I’ll have to research this more, never heard of anyone breaking an SP-515 plug or SP-546 plug like with the original SP-507 plugs. I tuned mine up a few thousand miles ago with new SP-546 plugs along with new plug boots. If it’s plug time it’s time to replace boots as well, I didn’t use anti sieze. I removed all 8 SP-515s after letting soak in carb cleaner for 20 minutes 1/4 turn loosened, cold engine. Retightened and then removed with my impact quickly. Had no breakage or issues. I’d advise against doing this on a hot engine.
 
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JExpedition07

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You are correct they are still a 2 piece crimped plug. Separation torque was increased to north of 90 FT LBS with a much stronger crimp starting on the SP-515 plugs. SP-546 the latest plug design revised the snout for better carbon resistance and revised the manufacturing process to get rid of that “hot spot” blue weld. This blue area (indication of high heat in manufacturing) was causing some misfires out of the box.
 

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