darmahsd
Full Access Members
'Been stressing out over this one, reading everything I can, watching
You Tubes and getting the Ford TSB.
Finally did it, with 105 thousand miles and the engine starting to
skip. My decision was to go with the hot engine, impact wrench
method, which there are a number of YouTubes. I particularly
like anything Bob Bielawski, Ford Tech Makuloco makes. Watch this one: He originally did one using the TSB, cold engine, crack open 1/4
turn and pour carb cleaner/thread loosening solution.
People were still breaking plugs. I modified the hot engine, impact gun technique by cutting a piece of 3/4 inch conduit the length of the special Ford 9/16 spark plug socket. This is placed down the sparkplug tube before the socket to steady any sideloads from the
spinning impact wrench which might result in breakage. Because
there is a slight step in the plug tube, you need to put a piece of
non adhesive shrink tubing 2/3rds of the way down the conduit for the tightest fit. I couldn't get a stubby impact like Bob had, so I had to make do with a Harbor Freight cordless 3/8 drive Earthquake
wrench with U joint and extentions. You can't zip them up and out like the video shows when you use these tools, so that's why the conduit is important. Probably the most important and first step
in the process is a couple of hundred miles of running 2 cans, 32oz.
of Seafoam to 16 gallons of gas. When I removed all eight plugs without breaking them, they had no carbon on them, just rust.
I did one bank of the engine at a time, then warmed the engine up again for the other half. Total time, with cleaning and prepping the coil boots with silicon grease and antiseize on updated SP-546 Motocraft plugs took less than 3 hours. 3valve Triton engines
won't run at their best using those one piece Champion plugs
according to most opinions. They don't have the electrode strap.
Hope this is some help to someone ready to do the job, my results were successful doing it this way.
Stephen
You Tubes and getting the Ford TSB.
Finally did it, with 105 thousand miles and the engine starting to
skip. My decision was to go with the hot engine, impact wrench
method, which there are a number of YouTubes. I particularly
like anything Bob Bielawski, Ford Tech Makuloco makes. Watch this one: He originally did one using the TSB, cold engine, crack open 1/4
turn and pour carb cleaner/thread loosening solution.
People were still breaking plugs. I modified the hot engine, impact gun technique by cutting a piece of 3/4 inch conduit the length of the special Ford 9/16 spark plug socket. This is placed down the sparkplug tube before the socket to steady any sideloads from the
spinning impact wrench which might result in breakage. Because
there is a slight step in the plug tube, you need to put a piece of
non adhesive shrink tubing 2/3rds of the way down the conduit for the tightest fit. I couldn't get a stubby impact like Bob had, so I had to make do with a Harbor Freight cordless 3/8 drive Earthquake
wrench with U joint and extentions. You can't zip them up and out like the video shows when you use these tools, so that's why the conduit is important. Probably the most important and first step
in the process is a couple of hundred miles of running 2 cans, 32oz.
of Seafoam to 16 gallons of gas. When I removed all eight plugs without breaking them, they had no carbon on them, just rust.
I did one bank of the engine at a time, then warmed the engine up again for the other half. Total time, with cleaning and prepping the coil boots with silicon grease and antiseize on updated SP-546 Motocraft plugs took less than 3 hours. 3valve Triton engines
won't run at their best using those one piece Champion plugs
according to most opinions. They don't have the electrode strap.
Hope this is some help to someone ready to do the job, my results were successful doing it this way.
Stephen