Need help diagnosing knock/rattle noise .

[JExpedition07]

Can you do us a favor and post a video of the truck idling completely up to operating temperature from the passanger side wheel well (lower)?

I’m still not sure what I can even hear in this video, could be that my iPhone 10 isn’t a good viewing device. I wouldn’t assume the worst or that your having timing set issues yet. If you can’t isolate the noise at least have it diagnosed....

 

[Alfred andrade]

Can you do us a favor and post a video of the truck idling completely up to operating temperature from the passanger side wheel well (lower)?

I’m still not sure what I can even hear in this video, could be that my iPhone 10 isn’t a good viewing device. I wouldn’t assume the worst or that your having timing set issues yet. If you can’t isolate the noise at least have it diagnosed....

Okay I’m up loading a cold start video to you tube now. In the mean time while it’s warming up. My wife was incorrect the sound is louder with the engine cold and quites down wen it gets warmer.

 

[Alfred andrade]

This is the cold start video when I say cold I mean 75degrees I live in Hawaii.

 

[JExpedition07]

Okay I’m up loading a cold start video to you tube now. In the mean time while it’s warming up. My wife was incorrect the sound is louder with the engine cold and quites down wen it gets warmer.

It’s so hard to try and help diagnose via video.

Camphasers will almost always make more noise and racket when hot and up to operating temp idling than cold start. Here is a clear video on camphaser noise btw. It’s what you hear when he goes under the truck, pay attention to the louder noises. The fine ticking of the injectors hinders your ability to hear it up top.

 

[1955moose]

Next time it's cold, very carefully use a stethoscope or a long thin screwdriver up to ear, and move around motor. The symptoms lead more to a oiling problem of sorts. Ticking is valve train, knocking is lower end, rod or main bearings. Another problem on these motors is stuck valve lifter bore actuators. But if one or more was stuck/galled, it would be worse hot. If your stethoscope test leads more towards upper part of motor, rather than front, it is possible a hydraulic valve cam follower is not pumping up cold. Try the oil change up to the 5/30 oil, with a Ford filter. Some here say the cheaper filters on the 3 valve motors contribute to cold start problems.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[TobyU]

If you're in Hawaii like profile says then put 5w-40 or 5w-30 or better yet 10w-30 in it.
That should quieten it a little. I use 10w-30 all the time in ford modulars in warm weather and usually but not always go to 5w-30 for cold.
So many people argue about the weight ford made it for or supersedes and currently recommends.
First of all they have other concerns than we do. 2nd there is no way any 1 oil weight EVEN a multigrade can be "best" for trucks in Hawaii and also trucks in Canada.
People say you'll blow the engine, starve it for oil.... I did find one guy saying in warm Temps above 60 lets say, that nothing less than a 40wt viscosity should be used. He was advocating 15w-40 or 5w-40. There's a big difference in those two at temps around 30 though.
I've run them on 10w-30, 5w-40, 5w-30, and mobil 1 15w-50. Got a friend with an old 4.6 leaker that keeps pouring Rotella 15w-40 in and it hasn't blown up in years of that.
But sure, try some thicker oil and see what happens.
He electronics are simple on those to pull an engine.
The harness stays right on the engine. One 10mm bolt on the middle and the car end unplugs from the engine end.
You have to drop but not remove or unhook AC comp, power steering pump/bracket, remove radiator and hoses, fan and belt to pull timing cover anyway.
So from there you only have 2 quick connect fuel lines, 3-4 vacuum lines, power steering reservoir (lean out of way), the 2 exhaust manifold to pipe bolts on each side, the flex plate to torque converter bolts, 2 motor mount bolts (at least on V10 last I did) and 6-8 bolts holding engine to transmission, drop starter and lay on ground leaving wires hooked up.
Get this crap.
I pulled and replaced a V10 in an Excursion without removing hood!
I would have never thought possible.
Had to turn it sideways after lifting up a but to clear better. Same going back in sideways drop it down then spin it.
I did have to pull the intake to get enough height and not hit the hood but I also had a short hoist for the taller SUV. If I would have pulled the hood off I wouldn't have removed the intake early.

 

[Alfred andrade]

If you're in Hawaii like profile says then put 5w-40 or 5w-30 or better yet 10w-30 in it.
That should quieten it a little. I use 10w-30 all the time in ford modulars in warm weather and usually but not always go to 5w-30 for cold.
So many people argue about the weight ford made it for or supersedes and currently recommends.
First of all they have other concerns than we do. 2nd there is no way any 1 oil weight EVEN a multigrade can be "best" for trucks in Hawaii and also trucks in Canada.
People say you'll blow the engine, starve it for oil.... I did find one guy saying in warm Temps above 60 lets say, that nothing less than a 40wt viscosity should be used. He was advocating 15w-40 or 5w-40. There's a big difference in those two at temps around 30 though.
I've run them on 10w-30, 5w-40, 5w-30, and mobil 1 15w-50. Got a friend with an old 4.6 leaker that keeps pouring Rotella 15w-40 in and it hasn't blown up in years of that.
But sure, try some thicker oil and see what happens.
He electronics are simple on those to pull an engine.
The harness stays right on the engine. One 10mm bolt on the middle and the car end unplugs from the engine end.
You have to drop but not remove or unhook AC comp, power steering pump/bracket, remove radiator and hoses, fan and belt to pull timing cover anyway.
So from there you only have 2 quick connect fuel lines, 3-4 vacuum lines, power steering reservoir (lean out of way), the 2 exhaust manifold to pipe bolts on each side, the flex plate to torque converter bolts, 2 motor mount bolts (at least on V10 last I did) and 6-8 bolts holding engine to transmission, drop starter and lay on ground leaving wires hooked up.
Get this crap.
I pulled and replaced a V10 in an Excursion without removing hood!
I would have never thought possible.
Had to turn it sideways after lifting up a but to clear better. Same going back in sideways drop it down then spin it.
I did have to pull the intake to get enough height and not hit the hood but I also had a short hoist for the taller SUV. If I would have pulled the hood off I wouldn't have removed the intake early.

Thanks for the feed back yeah that doesn’t sound to bad to pull the engine. So I think you guys are right about it being the cam phasers (i think). If it’s the phaser how long can it be ran like that? It just taps/knocks the hole way down the rode most significant at around 2000rpm.

 

[TobyU]

Thanks for the feed back yeah that doesn’t sound to bad to pull the engine. So I think you guys are right about it being the cam phasers (i think). If it’s the phaser how long can it be ran like that? It just taps/knocks the hole way down the rode most significant at around 2000rpm.

Apparently people drive then darn near forever with them rattling.

 

[TobyU]

This is the cold start video when I say cold I mean 75degrees I live in Hawaii.

Sounds like the phasers I've heard. Just like a diesel rattle.

 

[Alfred andrade]

What exactly is a cam phaser can’t say I have ever heard of one. Or maybe just said differently