Need help diagnosing knock/rattle noise .

[Alfred andrade]

Hi looking to get to advice or where to start with finding what this noise is.
I have a 2008 limited 5.4 triton the noise doesn’t sound good. Also I have a profound ticking sound but the knock is more concerning.
This is the video I took. Sorry was only me so I had to mount my phone under the hood so I could rev the motor.
Please lmk what you guys think or what questions I can awnser to help. SUV has 160kmiles

 

[TobyU]

That's a 3 valve I assume. You'll get a bunch of answers later form ones with experience with those. I'm staying away as long as I can.

I've just heard the cam phasers messing up sound like a diesel. That sounds like it to me and like timing chains are slapping knocking around.
Maybe you will be lucky and only need some VCT solenoids but I think those usually give codes and make it run rough at idle but ok faster.
The tensioner gasket seal gets bad on those from the videos I have seen.

Good luck and hang in there for more info from others throughout the day.

 

[Alfred andrade]

Thank you, yeah I’d say it sound like it could be the timing chain or the guides vibrating around in there. Do you know how big of a job is it to put in a new timing chain?

 

[08navigator]

I believe that's your cam phasers knocking. Ours makes the same noise at really low rpm. There's a locking pin that gets a small amount of play in it in the phaser and it knocks around. According to fordmakeuloco, as long as it's the motorcraft brand phaser, it's not an issue.

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[JExpedition07]

Sounds normal idling, just injectors ticking. I hear a little something when you rev it. Normally if camphasers are worn they will knock at hot idle, is that the case? That pin can be normal wear. Any startup clanking? Those are more symptoms of timing set woes. Not sure what we hear in this video and hard to pin point.

Your noise could be multiple things maybe no big deal...may need more diagnosis.

 

[1955moose]

Either way you're going to have to tear into front end. When, depends on you. I believe to do the job right, new chains, gears, guides, and new phasers, is about a 7 hour job. Another 2 hours to pull and replace pan. The pan needs to be pulled as well, due to debris from the timing chain guides depositing on top of oil pump pick up screen. On top of that the oil pump should be changed while in there. Parts and labor can be as much as $2,000.00, depending what shop does it.

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[Alfred andrade]

It dosnt make noise when it’s starting if u listen closely at the u can hear the clock clock sound after I rev it or wen it’s at about 2000rpm and when idling. It’s gets louder after the car is warmed up and it idles.
So if it’s the cam phasers , or say the timing chain guides. Is it still safe to drive? How long do u think more I could drive it before I have to fix it, if you had to guess.
I’ll probly be fixing it on my own have any of you done the repair? Is it a big job, Any special tools required?
Thanks guys really appreciate how fast you all got back to me.

 

[TobyU]

That seems to be the typical symptoms. Rattling more at idle when hot. Can you sell it? Trade it in? A lot of work to do it right. A lot of people don't pull the pan not too judgment call. Pending on Miles everything else. I get a bright flashlight and look in the front of it may be rigged a piece of plastic clear tubing tape to the end of a Shop-Vac to reach down the pan and try to suck stuff out. It seems they high quality fix for these is to do the timing components and then pull the pan and put a new improved high volume oil pump. I don't even know if you can pull the pan in the vehicle but it sounds like you can.
It's almost a toss-up between what's easier pulling the pan on the vehicle and left in the engine up and all that are just pulling the engine out I'm doing it on the stand. Pulling the engine is only about two balls on each side for the exhaust pipes, 3 bolts for the converter transmission Shield, three or four bolts for the torque converter to flexplate, a bolt or two for each motor mount, and the two single screw Quick Connect wiring harnesses..
I can pull an engine out of one of these and have it on the engine stand between 45 minutes and an hour 15 if things go well. Last one I did I did have to cut one or two of the exhaust bolts off as they wouldn't loosen up or whatever. Now I took about eight extra minutes with a grinder. Then when you've got it out you can do lots of little stuff and clean it up.

 

[JExpedition07]

It dosnt make noise when it’s starting if u listen closely at the u can hear the clock clock sound after I rev it or wen it’s at about 2000rpm and when idling. It’s gets louder after the car is warmed up and it idles.
So if it’s the cam phasers , or say the timing chain guides. Is it still safe to drive? How long do u think more I could drive it before I have to fix it, if you had to guess.
I’ll probly be fixing it on my own have any of you done the repair? Is it a big job, Any special tools required?
Thanks guys really appreciate how fast you all got back to me.

Any other symptoms? Doesn’t stall? No codes? If you get no clanking at startup you likely have no problems with regards to the timing chain and tensioners, that’s the dead giveaway. That’s the point when no oil pressure is present where the tensioners would be relaxed and the loose chain would show itself. If it doesn’t then it likely isn’t at all. The most likely thing is some wear on the phasers if you have a hot idle knock. If it’s still running good and no codes or loud knocking it’s safe to drive.

Try changing your oil to 5W-30 next change and keep it that way. FordTechMakuloco recommends it and stated 5W-20 is only used for fuel economy. Many owners report quieter operation with 5W-30. Ive been using it in mine for a while now.

 

[Alfred andrade]

Dang yeah def seems like pulling the engine is the best way to go. Okay this might be kinda messed up but is there a way I can get that noise to stop temporarily maybe puting some thicker oil or an additive so that it can be presentable to sell. Of course I’d tell them bout it but just don’t want it making such a big noise.
My wife just confirmed it did make the noise when she started it and it got louder after it warmed up.
She really loves this truck n we just lifted it n converted the rear to coil overs. I no she is gonna want me to fix it but dang this sounds like a big job somthjng I may get lost in along the way.
I’m a diesel machanic never was good with electronic stuff I dread when my truck has an electrical issue n it’s a vp 24valve Cummins it’s hardly got any electronics, this car just unplugging all those wires make me nervous.

That seems to be the typical symptoms. Rattling more at idle when hot. Can you sell it? Trade it in? A lot of work to do it right. A lot of people don't pull the pan not too judgment call. Pending on Miles everything else. I get a bright flashlight and look in the front of it may be rigged a piece of plastic clear tubing tape to the end of a Shop-Vac to reach down the pan and try to suck stuff out. It seems they high quality fix for these is to do the timing components and then pull the pan and put a new improved high volume oil pump. I don't even know if you can pull the pan in the vehicle but it sounds like you can.
It's almost a toss-up between what's easier pulling the pan on the vehicle and left in the engine up and all that are just pulling the engine out I'm doing it on the stand. Pulling the engine is only about two balls on each side for the exhaust pipes, 3 bolts for the converter transmission Shield, three or four bolts for the torque converter to flexplate, a bolt or two for each motor mount, and the two single screw Quick Connect wiring harnesses..
I can pull an engine out of one of these and have it on the engine stand between 45 minutes and an hour 15 if things go well. Last one I did I did have to cut one or two of the exhaust bolts off as they wouldn't loosen up or whatever. Now I took about eight extra minutes with a grinder. Then when you've got it out you can do lots of little stuff and clean it up.