Need help with 2007 xlt ac problem...asap

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timurdi

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CAN SOMEONE HELP. I HAVE A 2007 XLT 2WD WITH ONLY 24,214 MILES. YESTERDAY I STARTED IT, AND IT STALLED OUT, RESTARTED IT AND A BURNING SMELL, BAD!, LIKE A CLUTCH OR RUBBER, TURNS OUT THE AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCHES MELTED AND THE RUBBER SPACERS IN THE CLUTCH SHOT ALL OVER THE PLACE, THEY ARE SAYING THEY ARE NOT SURE IF IT WAS THE CLUTCH OR THE COMPRESSOR THAT FAILED, EITHER WAY, IT NEEDS A NEW COMPRESSOR BECAUSE IT IS ABOUT THE SAME $$ TO REBUILD THE CLUTCH. HAS ANYONE SEEN OR HEARD OF THIS ON AN EXPED WITH JUST 24k ON IT???? ANYWAY, 2 FORD DEALERS TOLD ME I ABSOLUTELY MUST REPLACE THE ACCUMULATOR DRYER IF WE PURGE THE SYSTEM AND REPLACE THE COMPRESSOR BECAUSE OF MOISTURE AND/OR METAL PARTICLES??. MY MECHANIC SAYS NO WAY, IT ONLY HAS 24K ON IT AND ALL WE NEED TO DO IS REPLACE THE COMPRESSOR, O-RINGS, ORAFACE TUBE, AND PURGE AND RECHARGE THE SYSTEM. I AM VERY WEARY OF DOING THIS, AS I WAS TOLD BY EVERYONE ELSE THAT IF THERE IS METAL FROM THE COMPRESSOR OR CLUTCH MELTING/SHREDDING, WE MUST REPLACE DRYER, MUST!! MY MECHANIC IS A MASTER TECH, 20 YRS IN PRIVATE SERVICE, HE SAYS NO, SHOULD I REPLACE DRYER/ACCUMULATOR ANYWAY?? I'VE GOT TO MONDAY TO DECIDE, IF ANYONE CAN ADVISE ON THIS PLEASE DO SO NOW

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KWT2000

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i have heard of this not on expy but an f150... more than likly there was not enough oil put in the system at the factory. thats if the compressor is what failed. however they should be able to tell you which in a few minutes... what i would do is replace the compressor, orofice tube, and evaporator dryer and flush the system, during the flush they will be able to tell if there is a blockage in the condensor...if there is a blockage make sure they replace, none of this back flushing garbage DONT LET THE DEALER JACK YOU AROUND HOLD THEIR @$$ TO THE FIRE AND GO OVER THERE HEAD IF YOU HAVE TO!!! good luck get us updated please
 
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timurdi

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I agree, everyone including ford says the accumulator dryer MUST be replaced whenever a system is evacuated regardless of the reason for evac. The only one who is telling me otherwise is my mechanic, also the accumulator/dryer is part of the condenser, it must be bought and replaced as a pair, both the compressor and dryer are dealer only parts, only available to purchase from ford, probably because it is an 07 he thinks. My big question is. Do you feel I should change the accumulator/dryer/condenser for the 240 extra bucks? or listen to my mechanic and ignore it. thers a dozen others saying it MUST be done. he has my truck now and I need to let him know. Can you tell me worst case what could happen if I do not replace the accumulator/dryer/condenser? what does the trucks mileage have to do with anything as far as not needing to replace it? he told me since it it low mileage we dont have to. please advise
 

KWT2000

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well if the compressor went you need to do the dryer and condensor if only the clutch failed just do the compressor... the compressor is a very small version of a internal combustion engine... the piston rings are made of teflon and when they come apart these and the bearings plug up the condensor and dryer/ soo when they tell you what failed you can make your decision
 

ELVATO

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Here's what my 03 service manual says about the dryer.

NOTE: Installation of a new receiver/drier is not required when repairing the air conditioning system except when there is physical evidence of contamination from a failed A/C compressor or damage to the receiver/drier.
 
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timurdi

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last question everyone, and I am sorry to sound so uneducated in this matter , and I greatly appreciate your knowledge and time, how can I tell, EXACTLY! if it was just the the clutch that failed or if it was actually the compressor failed by looking at it? does it need to be taken apart to tell??? will the clutch still engage when the ac turned on if it was the clutch that failed? etc, etc? please reply as detailed as you can so I can better understand if it was the compressor failure not just a clutch failure. guys, this is the only truck I got, it is out of warranty 2 months ago, I own it outright and I paid $37,900 K in cash off the lot new, I want to make absolutely sure it is done 110% as I plan on keeping this truck until it dies, my wife only drives 4500 miles a yr in it so it will be around a long, long, time, , I am just trying to save $$, the difference of $400 or so bucks with the dryer/condenser replacement plus labor.( if i actually need a dryer condenser) I am going to physically see the compressor myself while it is off, what do I look for?, how can I tell if compressor failed and not just the clutch?, when we turn the ac on in the truck cabin, the center piece of compressor, or the clutch, engages and starts to spin,also, it stops when the ac is shut off. but no cold air at ALL and the rubber spacer is melted and shredded on the clutch. what do you think ? Should I just be safe and pay the extra 400 bucks for the dryer/condenser and be safe??? secondly, and this is minor do I need an oriface tube and what does it do? I cant believe a exped with under 23K miles on it has this problom. any info on how to tell if the compressor or clutch is the failure will help?
 

KWT2000

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i read through your post more carefully and it sounds like the compressor seized up broke bearings, rings, pistons.. since the shims came out of the clutch pack it will probably not engage when it is energized... however try to spin the compressor by hand infront of where the belt rides if you cant budge it the compressor is seized up
 
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timurdi

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the pulley is turning with the belt and when we turn the ac on, the part in front of where the belt rides starts to spin, when we shut off the ac, I can see the front disengage and stop spinning, but no cold air, system is fully charged too. is this the compressor or clutch problem, or do i need to have the compressor taken off the truck to hand turn? again, there was a horrible burning rubber/clutch smell at startup, melted rubber shim thrown all over, truck originally stalled out, restarted and then the smell came.
 

KWT2000

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it is the compressor, when it stalled out something inside seized up and broke thats why the compressor turns but no cold air... once you get it fixed have it serviced once a year to help avoid this again
 
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timurdi

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im gonna definately do the dryer condenser too then. I cant believe I need to spend this much at 23,900K.
 
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timurdi

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Hello, they took the compressor of today, clutch was smoked, compressor turned by hand from shaft and no sign of debris, black oily contamination and also no signs of metal. they put in a new oem compressor and clutch, new belt, new orings and did NOT replace the accumulator/dryer or condenser. they recharged the system to 2.75 lbs, air is cold and seems fine, 12 month 12k mile warranty. Is this the good? they said no dryer condeser needed since no compressor failure or coolant leak, it was just a clutch. please advise
 

KWT2000

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yes sounds good and backing it with the warranty... make sure you service the system once a year and you should be good
 
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timurdi

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need more help

hey everyone,
Hope your still here, you've all been a big help. I have another question. I want to put a 40 series flowmaster on the 2007 expy. dual with stainless tips, capital ford in raleigh says I will void factory warranty if i do. what in the world???? he says it causes too much back pressure and/ or vibration and causes failure to factory parts, has ANYONE ever heard such a thing?????? it is a 2007 XLT 5.4 2WD currently has only about 19K miles on it
 
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timurdi

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and by the way the ac is great. only thing im worried is, factory says 2.06 lbs of freon, mine was charged to 2.75 lbs by mechanic . mechanic said he did not thik the 2.06 was enough, I heard over charging ac system could cause problems. is this a big over charge?? should I be concerned?? or is 2.75 to 2.06 not much more and will be ok??? anyone???
 
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