Need to replace Cam Phasers or is it time to Replace engine advice please

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theoldwizard1

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I am at the point where I am going to need to change out the Cam Phasers which is a job I don't have time to tackle my self
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Rebuild is about $3200 or reman Between 3500 and 4500.
Those number sound low to me ! What kind of a warranty are you getting ? Check the price on a genuine Ford reman. Comes with 3 year/50K warranty good at any Ford dealer.

It will cost over 2k to have the job done, so will that be enough to have the truck solid for the next 5 or 6 years
There is never a guarantee that nothing else is going to break, but if you get the job done, the timing chain, guides and tensioners should also be replaced. Probably the water pump also. Parts are not that much and there should be no additional labor.

I also need to change out the throttle body and CATs.
Now you are talking a LOT MORE MONEY !
 

blue oval guy

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I don't see why you couldn't get 350K miles + before anything major happens, seems a good choice for a new driver assuming he's responsible
Do the initial repairs to get him going and future repairs will need be handled by it's new driver/user. He should get a lot of good use out of it once those minor issues are sorted out.
 

rjdelp7

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I thought Ford developed a tool, to cut labor time on Phaser/tensioner replacement. Its called a cheese wedge. Its is pushed down to hold timing chain. The phasers are changed, in a fraction of the time, with no tear down of front of motor. New Phasers are around $300 + plus a couple of hours labor.
 

lbv150

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My son is 15 very responsible, respectful and mature somewhat of an old soul which is why I would even consider handing him the truck, and yes he is very meticulous with his possessions. The transmission was rebuilt a little over a year ago after it dropped OD, the suspension has been replaced front and rear about a year and a half ago. Interior is in impeccable shape and everything works.

If it was me, I would swap out the engine with a Ford remanufactured engine. I did that a few years ago on my '95 F350 and the buyer of my '06 Expy did the same.
 

TobyU

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I think that price I'm getting the phasers done this way. I can only assume it's being done at a dealership. I will never pay dealership prices for anything. They act like they know everything but in reality they're not nearly as good as they think they are. I have been there with examples of first-hand experience of what a Dodge dealer told me one time.
There are lots of people that do those phasers all the time and are really good at it. If it were mine I would tear into it and do it myself even though I haven't done the exact job.
No reason to get crazy replacing other stuff just because you have it off. These water pumps last almost forever and it's a pretty easy job anyways. Leave the radiator and fan and water pump alone. Just put them back on.
Timing chain and gear set and guides and tensioners are the most I would replace.
This is only going from what you said about the truck being rust free and in excellent condition. If it has any rust or paint issues I would sell it and replace it. There are lots of great deals out there. I don't buy into the theory of worrying about buying used because it's unknown or other people's problems. People get tired of things, they buy new vehicles when they have the money. A decent road test and good hecking out of a vehicle with no glaring flaws showing has no greater chance of costing you major repairs then one you have that has 270,000 miles. It's pretty regardless the fact that you know how you took care of it or treated it is still has 270,000 miles. You can go by very nice condition 04 vehicles between 3000 and 5000 all day long. The mileage will vary from around 115k to 180k depending on price.
No reason to think of vehicle at 270 is going just laying around or blow up tomorrow either. There are plenty of these modular engines floating around with over 400,000 that run like new ones. How one is driven or treated is not the total all inclusive determining factor on whether it will or won't need an expensive repair at any certain number of miles.
So is the body and paint is really nice I would find someone not at a dealer or garage that does the phasers and get it done much cheaper or do it myself. Either put a nice set of seat covers on it or buy some used front seats out of something else and both them in. Unless the seats are really really nice. At 270 I don't see how they couldn't have some massive wear through or cracking if they're leather. If cloth they can still look darn good at 270.
I get attached to the vehicles too but only when they can't be replaced. I could work long and hard and I have many vehicles building and replacing engines doing hours of wet sanding and working the paint, but if you pulled up a better one in better shape or nicer than mine and handed me the title I would pour gasoline on my pride and joy and Burn It to the Ground. So I guess I'm not that sentimental.
But I absolutely refuse to put large sums of money into vehicles or pay going rate for dealer or garage repairs.
Too many people are hung up on being afraid to take the risk even if it's a fairly small risk. They want to take the safe bet but that involves paying the big money. I will not do that. Good luck in whatever you decide and let us know how it works out.
 
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Jb14

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Those number sound low to me ! What kind of a warranty are you getting ? Check the price on a genuine Ford reman. Comes with 3 year/50K warranty good at any Ford dealer.


There is never a guarantee that nothing else is going to break, but if you get the job done, the timing chain, guides and tensioners should also be replaced. Probably the water pump also. Parts are not that much and there should be no additional labor.


Now you are talking a LOT MORE MONEY !
I was comparing between the Jasper and the Ford reman I think the ford was a bit more
 
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Jb14

Jb14

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I don't see why you couldn't get 350K miles + before anything major happens, seems a good choice for a new driver assuming he's responsible
Do the initial repairs to get him going and future repairs will need be handled by it's new driver/user. He should get a lot of good use out of it once those minor issues are sorted out.

With the way my truck runs and maintenance, I believe I could get 350+ out of it but for me I am in unchartered waters with ford, though I have owned since 2009 and bought with only 32k on the clock (most of my other vehicles were GM) I am trying to be proactive as we take numerous road trips and off-road in some desolate areas.
 
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Jb14

Jb14

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I thought Ford developed a tool, to cut labor time on Phaser/tensioner replacement. Its called a cheese wedge. Its is pushed down to hold timing chain. The phasers are changed, in a fraction of the time, with no tear down of front of motor. New Phasers are around $300 + plus a couple of hours labor.
They do have a new tool to assist but I won't be able to do the job my self so have to pay to have it done.
 
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Jb14

Jb14

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I think that price I'm getting the phasers done this way. I can only assume it's being done at a dealership. I will never pay dealership prices for anything. They act like they know everything but in reality they're not nearly as good as they think they are. I have been there with examples of first-hand experience of what a Dodge dealer told me one time.
There are lots of people that do those phasers all the time and are really good at it. If it were mine I would tear into it and do it myself even though I haven't done the exact job.
No reason to get crazy replacing other stuff just because you have it off. These water pumps last almost forever and it's a pretty easy job anyways. Leave the radiator and fan and water pump alone. Just put them back on.
Timing chain and gear set and guides and tensioners are the most I would replace.
This is only going from what you said about the truck being rust free and in excellent condition. If it has any rust or paint issues I would sell it and replace it. There are lots of great deals out there. I don't buy into the theory of worrying about buying used because it's unknown or other people's problems. People get tired of things, they buy new vehicles when they have the money. A decent road test and good hecking out of a vehicle with no glaring flaws showing has no greater chance of costing you major repairs then one you have that has 270,000 miles. It's pretty regardless the fact that you know how you took care of it or treated it is still has 270,000 miles. You can go by very nice condition 04 vehicles between 3000 and 5000 all day long. The mileage will vary from around 115k to 180k depending on price.
No reason to think of vehicle at 270 is going just laying around or blow up tomorrow either. There are plenty of these modular engines floating around with over 400,000 that run like new ones. How one is driven or treated is not the total all inclusive determining factor on whether it will or won't need an expensive repair at any certain number of miles.
So is the body and paint is really nice I would find someone not at a dealer or garage that does the phasers and get it done much cheaper or do it myself. Either put a nice set of seat covers on it or buy some used front seats out of something else and both them in. Unless the seats are really really nice. At 270 I don't see how they couldn't have some massive wear through or cracking if they're leather. If cloth they can still look darn good at 270.
I get attached to the vehicles too but only when they can't be replaced. I could work long and hard and I have many vehicles building and replacing engines doing hours of wet sanding and working the paint, but if you pulled up a better one in better shape or nicer than mine and handed me the title I would pour gasoline on my pride and joy and Burn It to the Ground. So I guess I'm not that sentimental.
But I absolutely refuse to put large sums of money into vehicles or pay going rate for dealer or garage repairs.
Too many people are hung up on being afraid to take the risk even if it's a fairly small risk. They want to take the safe bet but that involves paying the big money. I will not do that. Good luck in whatever you decide and let us know how it works out.

All valid points. My vehicle is in an extremely good condition, in fact, I just had a business associate riding with me asked if the truck was new (He thought it still had that new car smell) Paint is good, the driver seat cushion is showing some wear but I can replace the bottom leather seat cover and cushion for about $300. I will have to have a mechanic do the job as I travel a lot on business and my schedule does not permit but I do feel the job should be less the prices I have been quoted. To add no rust
 

JExpedition07

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Why get rid of the truck if it’s solid? No reason to, you clearly like the truck and want to keep it in the family so throw a ford reman engine in and call it a day... you know it has been taken care of, can’t say that for another used vehicle you would buy instead. You already did the trans, just be prepared for the nickel and dime stuff.
 

Habbibie

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Oh my you guys are really going at it in this thread,

OP follow this simple but logical rule, if the repairs cost more than the trucks worth then it's time to either sell it or drive it till its last breath, only way you can justify dropping more $$ on it than it's worth is sentimental value!

If you're planning on handing it over to your kid, that's fine but be a responsible parent and let them learn the lessons life has to offers if it breaks down in a week, a month, a year or what's not, if they cant fix it or keep it running then OBVIOUSLY they're not responsible enough to own a car in the first place
 

1955moose

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My first real car was a 1956 Volkswagen that had the engine in 3 boxes that I had to reasemble myself. $50.00 later I owned it, and along with a book for dummies, a week later it was putting down the roads of San Francisco, with it's mighty 36 hp engine. My mom buying me a car? Yeah right! She barely kept food on the table!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 

ltharley

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@Jb14 .
I'm with Trainmaster on just run it as is until the motor goes. Picture putting a few grand into it and, God forbid, your son, an inexperienced driver, totals the thing. Insurance won't pay out anything close to what you have in it.
Have your boy get a job and start saving for the replacement motor. When she dies, make the decision.
 

BillAlex

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I am going through the same process you are right now. Ford Reman is about $4,000 in a crate and comes with a three year warrantee. At minimum, you need the Ford Phasers and the guides. Ford claims they have fixed the problem. The second thing that is mandatory is a Melling Heavy duty Oil pump. New water pump and I would go with Ford for these. A lot of guys have purchased a complete Timing Chain kit that is Ford OEM for about $850 on Amazon. I also did a check of local machine shops and narrowed it down to three shops. Did a Better Business Bureau check and honed in on one shop. They have mechanics there that will so a R&R for about a Thousand Dollars. Other shops seem to go $2,000 to $3,000 for the Ford Dealership. The book calls for about 8-12 hours so you are probably just wasting money at a Dealership. Most guys on this forum are pretty good with a wrench so if you are mechanically inclined, they can walk you through it with a little help from YouTube.
I know these cars kind of grow on you and I bought my 2005 new off the show room floor. It was my wife's car for all of these 13 years so when it hit 215,000 and decided to find another one just like the original one. Same color, Eddie Bauer and 100,000 miles less and rust free. Interior is immaculate. I decided to rebuild her and drop a Reman engine in her. These things are a work of art and sometimes its hard to let something you love get away. Remember your first girlfriend? There are some you probably would like to get back. So before you go and dump this thing of beauty, consider rebuilding her from the ground up if needed. After all, sixty thousand for a new one is not cheap. You can do a lot of rebuilding for sixty grand.
 

blue oval guy

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those are all easy things to fix/replace.. if it were mine i would start with compression test and make sure you have a good baseline motor before starting with those repairs.
 
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