Need torque upgrade towing advice from you experts!

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ken demain

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Hi guys, I have a 2000 Exp 5.4L, I tow a 6500lb trailor fairly well but I want to turn my stock exp into a towing monstor, I only use it to tow my trailor about ten times a year, point me in the right direction, torque convertor? new tranny, rear end gears? I'm not a wrencher so would have my local mechanic do the work, point me in the right direction, Thanks!!
 

paul_smith_347

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I would stick with the factory torque converter and transmission. After all, the 4R100 is the same trans you will find behind the V10 and the Powerstroke. Here are my reasons... someone correct me if my views aren't correct. The stock Torque Converter will do just fine. Most of the time, the torque converter is replaced when the driver wants the trans to lock in at higher RPM's. The higher stall allows a built motor to get deeper into its power band, before the trans locks in to pull. Speaking of pulling, HP is nice, but Torque is what gets you rolling. Like I said the same trans u have in ur 2000 Expy with the 5.4 is the same trans you will find in the powerstroke and v10's of simmilar year. Its built to deal with numbers higher than what a stock 5.4 will throw at it. This being said, I would recomend a Shift kit, or a programmer that will stiffen up the shifts. A smooth shift is smooth because the clutches slip. Slip= wear and heat. Wear and heat = Trans DEATH. Firm up the shifts and you will feel it in a dead pull. The programmer is nice because its plug and play on a rainy afternoon, no wrenching skills needed. Shift Kit is cheaper, but requires you to get into the trans and install some new springs and ect. Check your door code to find your axle ratio. The codes are listed somewhere on here, or are easily looked up. If you only pull a trailer 10 times a year, I wouldn't mess with having them changed. My opinion for you is to stick with all the stock internals and go with easier DIY mods that take little wrench time and knowledge. My opinion for what you should do is this.
1) Get a Programmer. Several brands out there. Seen a lot of ppl on this site with the Edge system. It will increase HP, Torque, and Trans settings. All you have to do is buy it, plug it in, and punch buttons. No shop bill
2) Look into the GOTTS MOD and exhaust. Both will allow better flow or air through the engine. Again leading to minor HP and Torque gains. GOTTS MOD is virtually free and you can find a complete How To with Pics on this site. Several Companies make exhaust systems for the expy witch bolt right up to factory hardware. Takes a little time, but not much wrench experience.

That is my advice. I am sure others will chime in and correct/support my ideas. All the stuff I listed above are things someone with practically no experience wrenching can handle. I think these will be the quickest and easiest things you can do to really change the attitude of how your expy pulls.
 

Stoned06

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^^What Paul said. If you get a programmer, don't be tempted to increase the line pressure on the trans. This will wear out the trans quicker (clutches I believe). You would be better off with a valve body replacement for the quicker shifts.
 

toms89

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^^What Paul said. If you get a programmer, don't be tempted to increase the line pressure on the trans. This will wear out the trans quicker (clutches I believe). You would be better off with a valve body replacement for the quicker shifts.

This is what I was told by the builder of my tranny. Shift kit is much preferable over raising the pressure in the tune though I dont quiet understand the difference. I had wore down my original clutches to bare metal with the shift pressure maxed out in my tune and no valvebody mods. Seem to shift fine though... After breaking my tranny I had my tranny rebuilt with the heavier duty turbo diesel internals and modified valve body. (The 4R100 in the turbo diesels are not identical to those found in the expy. Steel components vs aluminum with additional clutches and pinion gears). Now it shifts harder than before with the settings in the tune stock. Mine is a unique situation as I am pushing a lot more power through it (577 pd ft torque at the wheels) and was the cause of the breakage and likely clutch wear.

You did not mention if you had 4wd or 2wd. If you have 2wd and want it set up primarily to tow I would strongly consider a gear change. This can have the biggest effect on torque you see at the wheels at the expense of slightly higher cruise rpms and lost fuel efficiency. You would also need a programmer to adjust for the gear change.

If you want to go crazy with it.... a supercharger would really wake it up but using it while towing you would definately want to build the bottom end so it holds up then your also looking at a tranny rebuild.... never ends..lol.
 
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Thermo

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When it comes to line pressure in the tranny, think of it this way, do you want to carry 50 pounds or 100 pounds. You can do both, but you are going to wear yourself out faster carrying the heavier load. In the case of the tranny, using the higher line pressure to make things move faster. A shift kit does it slightly differently since it has larger holes in the valve body which allows more fluid at a lower pressure to enter the pistons, allowing the internals to move faster, but not get slammed with the high pressure fluid.

You can also think about it using a 16 ounce claw hammer and a 3 pound sledge hammer. The claw hammer will drive a nail into a 4x4, but it will take multiple hits. The sledge hammer can drive that nail into the 4x4 with a single hit. The question is, will the nail still be straight after the sledge hits it. Much more likely to be straight with a few hits from a claw hammer.

If you are looking for things to help get the load moving, I would start with a good exhaust upgrade (stick with either a single 3" exhaust with a 50 or 70 series muffler or a true dual 2.5" setup with a 50 or 70 series muffler). You can go with some of these monster exhaust setups and they are great for when you are trying to climb a hill at 4,000+ RPM, but you will pay for it every mile on flat land because your low end power is going to suffer. After that, the GOTTS mod will be a nice addition. After that, convert over to an e-fan setup. While the e-fan setup doesn't result in major power gains (only gain about 6 hp and 8 ft-lbs of torque), the nice thing is you gain the same thing at 500 RPM as you do at 5,000 RPM. You will notice the difference when trying to get things rolling.

I would also recommend the shift kit in the tranny if not so much to get any gains, but like was mentioned, it helps minimize heat build up and in a tranny, heat is the enemy. Every 10F rise in the fluid temp shortens the lift of the tranny by half. So, if you raise the temp by say 40F, you have cut the life of the tranny by 16 times. Getting a tranny fluid temp gauge may be a good thing for you to get so you can keep an eye on things. A short burst (a minute or two) up in temp is normally not a bad thing. IT is when you hold the temp up is when you start having issues.

Unforutnately, any sort of mods you do is not going to help the overall capacities of the truck. That is pretty much limited by the tranny and driveshaft. You can contemplate going up 1 step in gears (ie, if you have 3.55, look at 3.73, if you have 3.73, look at 4.10's). This will not hurt the mileage too bad (maybe loose 0.5 mpg or so), but the big thing will be learning to keep the RPMs to under 2,200 RPM when towing on level ground. Having played with my truck, you start keeping the engine RPMs up above 2,200, you will see your mileage really start to fall. The further from 2,200 you go, the quicker it approaches 1 mpg. Granted, plan on spending about $800-1000 an axle. So, if you have a 4x4 truck, this can get expensive in a heartbeat (ie, cost you $1600-2000).
 

paul_smith_347

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Kind of off the topic here, but the shift kits ive been looking at on Summit's website are made by . I watched the install video for it from 's site. The only thing it involves is changing the springs in the accumulater. I'm guessing the new springs are stiffer?? My question is this. If the new springs are stronger, won't this be increasing the pressure, thus making it the same mod as the programmer will do, only you won't have the control offered by the programmer? Just wondering, I am basically lost inside an AT. Thanks
 

Stoned06

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Increasing line pressure basically just does what you think it does. It will have a constant increase in pressure to get the firmer/quicker shift. Changing the valve body will do the same (or similar) at a lower line pressure. The valves/springs are changed to get the quicker shift without increased pressure. The increased pressure just makes the clutches rub against each other harder, therefore decreasing their life. Where the VB just decreases the time between shifts, thus saving the clutches.
Do a search on Gregg Evans on google. He is the Ford transmission guru that initially developed the valve bodies for the Lightnings and the 4r100 tranny. He wrote a very in depth report on the benefits.
 
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