Towing Advice Needed

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Left Coast Geek

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the GVWR of the trailer is only 5500. So even in your math I have another 500left. And I think max tow for me is 6300

is it a 4x4 or 4x2 ? the GCWR is 12500 for a 4x2 and 12400 for a 4x4. but I'd also need to know your GVWR and Payload numbers from your door frame sticker, as those are vehicle specific. Lets pretend those are 7450 and 1504 (like mine), so... 'curb weight' of about 5950, so your GCWR of 12500 - curb weight = 6550, so with a 5500 max trailer, you have about 1000 lbs of payload, which is also about right because of that 5500 lb trailer, at least 550 lbs (10%) is on the hitch, if its well balanced, and 550 lbs hitch subtracted from the 1500 lb payload, leaves about 1000 lbs. 3-4 big guys would put you over the limit.

Please run these same numbers with your actual GVWR and payload ...
 

Calidad

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Just a warning big box trailers run 18-23% tongue weight typically for badly needed stability. The 10% generic tongue weight rule is only applicable to less boxy more stable trailers like boats, tent trailers and flat utility trailers. Its very typical to see 4000lb max rv box trailers running 550lbs on the tongue or more.
 

sjwhiteley

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I believe you will be fine. Mine weighs 4400lbs (dry). WDH, sumo ‘springs’ (the rubber donuts). While I have not done much towing lately, when I did, it was stable and ran smooth.
 
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theblackpearl

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I believe you will be fine. Mine weighs 4400lbs (dry). WDH, sumo ‘springs’ (the rubber donuts). While I have not done much towing lately, when I did, it was stable and ran smooth.
Thanks. So yours does not have the tow package too ? Outside of the sumo springs did you make any other updates ?
 

Calidad

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I know this does not answer your question specifically, but…. We have a 2023 Platinum with the heavy dut tow package. At the same time we bought a 33’ travel trailer with a 6800# dry weight and of course a weight equalizing hitch.

Twice we have gone for a long weekend about 40 miles from home. Sounds like not much, but we live in the hill country of Texas and have dealt with some pretty big hills in 100 degree heat.

It will easily maintain 70 mph plus without even realizing it. I was trying to keep the speed no more than 65.
I read that most towable RV owners don’t go more than 100 miles given how poor these trailers tow. I can definitely attest that these boxes are by far the worst towing trailers I have experienced. Our target trips are 2700 mile round trips. Where towing quality of the trailer is pretty important. All modern trucks will drag a box of garbage over legal limits. That doesn’t mean it’s enjoyable.
 

Jarred

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Hi folks - I own a 2020 RWD Expedition Max, without the HD Towing package - so 6300lbs tow capacity and 1600lb payload capacity (from the label on the door jab). I've read all 4th gen threads so far as well, using the search function, but want to get y'all's feedback.

I am looking at a trailer (Jayco 224 bh) with 4500lb dry weght, and 5500 GVWR.


Family weighs 500lbs. We'll mostly drive with the tanks empty, and for majority of the trips, I'll just carry one propane tank to shed some weight.

So with a Weight distribution hitch (Equal-i-zer 4 point), I am within spec. But I want to see if I can be comfortable with the tow.. Any advices? Should I downsize the trailer? Especially if I want to climb hills? Worried mostly about transmission temp and sway control etc.


As for upgrades (I will still be under spec for non-HD towing, but want to try and get as many HD Towing upgrades as possible):
- Ford OEM brake controller install
- Possibly shocks + sumo springs
- Powerstop truck towing brakes and rotors
- Better cooling - all 4th gens have trans cooler. But need beefier radiator. I wish there was more knowledge around here on beefing up the radiators (either from the HD towing package or aftermarket). I read all the threads here, but looks like no one has done anythng

The larger real axles and 3.73 diff - well I cannot change that. But I will be within payload and towing specs. So hopefully not an issue

That trailer is totally fine for your vehicle. I have the same truck with max tow and have a significantly heavier trailer. For tow comfort you’ll probably want better tires with more firm sidewalls and aired up closer to max. I went with some continentals. I also did rear sumo springs and those are super easy to install. The bilstein 5100 shocks made a big difference as well. Obviously you need the break controller. I would think for towing comfort the tires and suspension would be higher priority than the radiator but that’s my opinion. My biggest issue towing was the ultra soft rear suspension and tires. I also went with the Andersen hitch to save weight.
 

ryanpe

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I've been towing my Lance 1985 with my 2021 Limited w/HD tow pkg w/WDH for over 22,000 miles. I focus on the 1605 payload number vs my 9200 tow limit . My Lance's GVWR is 5800 and usually tow it near the limit (6010# was max from 2 Cat scales). However, when you add tongue weight, passengers and cargo my axle capacity is at 95.8% (rear) and 87.7% (front) of the vehicles rating. So I'm well below my towing capacity (65%) but at max on axle payload rating. That being said, my expo tows this load like a rock star. Leaky front CCD shock was the only issue w/45K on the truck (48.8% of that towing the Lance). We live in the rockies @7000 ft so mountain towing is 50% of the total. I average 10.4 mpg while towing using 91 octane. 1695651031259.png
 

LG_123

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I also agree that you’ll be fine. The payload is always the limiting factor and it sounds like you’re comfortably inside the limits. There’s quite a bit of buffer built into Ford’s recommended limits so I wouldn’t skimp on bringing enough propane and water in the trailer.

The absolute max payload rating is what you’ll see on the tires; those are limits I wouldn’t encroach on but the numbers on the door jam are more like guidelines.

Many here will say that’s a dangerous opinion but I’ve reached it based on a lot of research and tested it from coast to coast.
 

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