New Owner Hello and a few ?'s

[JerEazy]

Haha. The ole buttermilk drive! As worrisome as it may sound even on my last truck I never added tow mirrors. Not to say they aren’t fantastic tools. But defensive driving handles a lot of problems.

This was only a 25 mile drive - camper weighs in 5300 dry and 5700ish once I load it up. After I put on the E2 it leveled out fairly well with readjustment. But I’m pretty sure they build these instructions for a solid axle.

What I mean by that is you do your adjustment based on front wheel fender height. With IDRS I think I probably need a bit more tongue weight.

But that’s just preference. This was a nice comfortable cruise. Family and dog comfortable and A/C on my rear after the load up work was VERY appreciated. The only thing I thing needs addressed is a brake bleed.

From what I can tell the IBC reacts based on pedal height. Well, I’m mildly spongy loaded or unloaded and I already wanted to address that soon.

What I noticed is what normally would be “slow down” for the unhooked truck was “yee haw!” On the trailer (even at a low gain). So I’m pretty sure once bled out I’ll be readjusting.

But even with all that. Sooooo....ooooo....ooo much happier in the expedition than the tundra. I’m actually amazed more people don’t know the quality of this vehicle.

 

[tdlegrand]

What mileage did you get while trailering? My enclosed tandem axle aluminum cuts hard the mileage.


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[JerEazy]

The mileage cut for sure - but this campsite is mostly suburban stop and go on the way there from my place. I wasn’t surprised it showed 6.9ish.

 

[NASCAR Mike]

I have the HD Bilsteins on the front only. I have the Nivomat self leveling shocks on the rear so I didn't want to change those. The Bilsteins helped with the front end dropping hard when you brake hard. I upgraded my brakes to EBC yellow pads and crossdrilled/slotted rotors so the braking is noticeably better.

I have the Hellwig front and rear swaybars. Some here have stated that the rear bar is too short or not wide enough but it does fit and works fine. The rear swaybar connecting link sits very close to the swaybar bend. I will say that the sway bars have made a HUGE difference in handling. I can take corners much faster now and there is very little body roll.

I have 50W HID lights on my Expy. I bought them from DDM Tuning. https://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php I have them on my 08 Expy and my former 05 Excursion. They are good quality kits. The ones in my Excursion were 12 years old when I sold it and I never had to change a HID bulb.

 

[JerEazy]

Thanks Mike - so the Hellwig did have a noticeable improvement over factory? Good to know!

I’ve got lights en route - so I’m looking forward to that upgrade.

I’ll likely be looking at brake upgrades if the bleed and fluid exchange doesn’t improve pedal feel.

 

[CaptOchs]

The E2 is a good kit. @johnboneske has the same kit. I use a Reese dual-cam myself. I've got a 7000# Keystone Springdale which I've been pretty happy with.

What's your air pressure in your rears set to? RV dealer recommended at least 40 to get rid of a spongy feel in the rears. I have a 2003 with the original shocks. Adding more air may help in your situation.

 

[JerEazy]

Good call - I’ll check air pressure next time I’ve got it hooked up.

Guys at Hellwig said the rear sway has about a 20% improvement on body roll over stock.... not sure how they would measure that... but might me something I look at down the line.

 

[johnboneske]

No, I have the E4, and LOVE it. I don't have the air ride suspension either. Mine tows fine without it.

 

[JerEazy]

Not to derail the thread on towing stuff - but I called Fastway today (they make the equalizer and the E2) and they agreed I shouldn’t need to step up to the equalizer unless I really feel like the camper is overpowering the expedition- which it isn’t.

I’ve got some adjustment checks to do before I take my next camping trip - but it’s a bit of a longer drive and more highway so it’ll put the hitch to the test. If it’s still giving me that rear end wiggle I might step into the dual cam.

On the main point my lights and HID kit will be here in the next day or two - so looking forward to that.

And I called into the dealership on my list of “issues” I want addressed. I’m in my 30 days so it should all be covered. But here’s what I’m having checked/fixed - and yes it’s nit picky on some stuff - but I’m a big fan of get it fixed while it’s on their dime and getting it in record you had an issue early Incase it doesn’t go away or gets worse.

Spongy brakes with a shimmy on medium to hard braking (probably just needs a rotor turn and a system bleed)

Driveline noise at low cruising speeds: my drive to work is mostly city streets and backroads. (35, 45, 55) I’ve noticed a humming/rumbling sound and can feel it in the floor and pedal at lower speeds and low RPM. Like 35 when the tranny up shifts to 4th - at the low rpm I’ll feel it. If I manually downshift it goes away. Same is true for 45 and 5th and 50ish when it goes to 6th. Yes I could adjust my driving habits to avoid it. But, if it’s fixable. Let’s fix it.

Suspension bounce: probably just me not used to the ride - but I want it checked

Pull to the left: new tires - likely slightly off on alignment

Sometimes a rough idle: might just be the AC compressor or the fan. But if I’m on the road and get stuck at a light it’ll get a rough idle you can feel in the whole vehicle. Have read the posts and watch videos on the carbon buildup issues. So I want it on record I’ve noticed something and checked if it’s somethjng else.

Air “whoosh” at mid throttle: doesn’t matter what speed or from start at mid throttle there’s this sound like the engine bay is blowing air at me. Goes away under heavy idle, doesn’t exist at crushing. Some google search says it might be a wastegate issue.

Cosmetic stuff for the rest - loose this, missing screw here kinda stuff.

Will see what they have to say!

 

[johnboneske]

You mentioned a shimmy when medium to hard braking. Do you know what causes that? When you have your tires rotated and/or the wheels are off your SUV and reinstalled and they use those Damn torque sticks, they aren't reliable and can vary as much as 10% per lug which doesn't sound like much... But 10% on opposing lugs is as much as 30 ft pounds and will no matter what warp your rotors. When I get mine serviced I always take it home, and loosen all lugs and retighten with my torque wrench to 120 ft pounds. It's suppose to be 150, but never had an issue at 120... My brake pedal never pulsates!

 

[JerEazy]

Normally its caused by runout or slight warping in the brake rotors from heat or cheap pads. Previous owner was probably a brake rider. I’ve never heard that wheel lug torque will affect it. But I just checked the google box and you are correct! How about that...

Some vehicles are more sensitive to it (like Infinitis and Lexuses... Lexi? Not sure what that plural is) and some dampen the pedal and wheel feel (like your Mercedes and Caddys)

 

[1955moose]

Not just the torque sticks, but a general no knowledge, is that a word? Anyway it's the tech, and I use that word loosely, tightening in a circle, not an x pattern that will cause shimmy, shudder, and all kinds of problems. It seems to affect steel, and thin aluminum wheels the worst. Insist on the tech to use a torque wrench, not an air impact. The service advisor will most likely give you crap about it, your slowing down his production, but hey it's your Suv.

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[Richard Chapman]

Changing to LED can be done but you will need to do some research. I have converted 5 cars to LED with success, but the key is understand what the light pattern of the LED replacement bulb you have picked is. There are some good videos on the web about the light pattern of most of the LED major brands. If you don't pick the right LED bulb, you and everyone that sees you headlights at night will not be happy campers.

 

[JerEazy]

Thanks Chapman - went with an HID kit from the same company that does the puddle lights - drive bright. Should be a straightforward install.

 

[johnboneske]

Normally its caused by runout or slight warping in the brake rotors from heat or cheap pads. Previous owner was probably a brake rider. I’ve never heard that wheel lug torque will affect it. But I just checked the google box and you are correct! How about that...

Some vehicles are more sensitive to it (like Infinitis and Lexuses... Lexi? Not sure what that plural is) and some dampen the pedal and wheel feel (like your Mercedes and Caddys)

For years since I discovered this problem, when I get home from any type of service I loosen all lugs and re-tighten the lugs with my cheapo torque wrench from harbor freight and haven't ever had any peddle fluctuation since on any of my cars/trucks/SUV's. Many people have told me I am full of it and wrong, but haven't had that problem since and they still do. I have slotted/cross drilled rotors on my Expedition with ceramic pads since I do alot of towing, and mine don't have any problems.

 

[JerEazy]

LED puddles and plate lights are in. Broke a tab on the brake light housing - so about $15 for replacement there. But, they look great!

HIDs are next... but seem a bit more involved. So looks like I’ll tackle them in the AM