Odd noise

[GngrBeardMan]

I recently noticed an occasional noise coming from the driver front wheel. It only happens every once in a while and only last for a few seconds, 30 at the most. It sounds almost metal on metal. I can't seem to accurately recreate it but I have noticed it seems to happen more after I've used the brakes. If I'm stopped at a stop sign or red light for a while then when I start driving I can hear it. My first thought was brake pads getting low but every vehicle I've had has had a higher pitched more constant squeal. Then I was thinking maybe the brake pad isn't coming away from the rotor properly. Haven't had a chance to look because our apartment complex has rules against working on cars. I would also like to mention that i did have a code pop up once for the ABS sensor on that wheel but it went away. Any ideas what I could look at when I get a chance to actually work on it?

 

[SafariGoneWrong]

Is it 4WD? I'm grasping here but if it is 4WD could the additional heat be affecting the vacuum actuated Integrated Wheel Ends (IWEs)... If you're up for it, put it through a stress test if there are roads in your area that allow for, let's say, multiple panic stops from speed. I did that last year when I had a brake issue (pedal slowly sinking to floor under hard braking) and you will learn more about what is going on.

 

[AWAR]

If you have an auto 4x4 setting try it and see if the noise disappears. If so it can be the solenoid on the firewall or the IWE at the wheel. It also could be loosing a wheel bearing. The abs code means look at the wheel bearing first.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

Had to drive around quite a bit today. No more noise but ABS light keeps coming on and it's throwing a code for the left front wheel speed sensor. Also noticed when the light is off I get brake shudder and the pedal is soft. Then the ABS light comes on and the brakes work perfect. Gonna try to do some hard braking here tomorrow if I can. It is a 4WD but I haven't had to turn on the 4WD for more than a year.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

So had to add some brake fluid when we got home earlier. Took it for another test drive after just to see. ABS light was on when I pulled out of the parking spot but went off before I left the parking lot. Got shudder and weak pedal stopping before pulling out of the parking lot. Then the ABS light came back on. Got the metal screeching noise for about 20 seconds then nothing. Tried heavy braking, even tried oh shit braking and I didn't notice anything off. Tried it in 2WD and 4WD and no difference. With the inconsistent noise could it be a wheel bearing?

 

[AWAR]

The ABS light indicates to jack it up and check the bearing. You may have to take it in to a quality tire or repair shop to diagnose it. I saw that you don’t have a place to work on it yourself. The ABS sensor is mounted to the wheel bearing assembly itself. The shudder and weak pedal is most likely the ABS system trying to understand the information it is getting from that one sensor.

 

[whtbronco]

Also put the truck in A4WD every couple weeks to a month just for a short drive. It just helps keep everything working and moving. Things start to corrode when they are not used or moved at all.

 

[EngineerMike]

My money is on brake pad wear. You can check this easily, look at the rotor for the characteristic score marking. Usually it is a constant or close to constant when it starts, but that's dependent on a number of things

 

[GngrBeardMan]

The rotors have been lightly scarred since I bought it. Was planning on replacing all the rotors but then I lost my job and that was put on the back burner. Can still confirm the brakes work fine when the ABS light is on but any time it goes off I get hard brake pedal, shudder, the soft brake pedal. After about 2-3 minutes the ABS light comes back on and it brakes fine. I have a new wheel speed sensor that should be here on the 11th and if my migraines cooperate I'll swap that out shortly after. Hopefully I'll see something that explains the odd noise when I have the wheel off. I also noticed an occasional light thumb coming from that wheel to so I will probably look for an answer to that too.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

After some struggle and a lot of cussing that I pulled from my time in the military I was able to get that stupid sensor replaced. Also swapped the brake pads while I was in there because it was time. Thought I had found the cause of the noise as I found what I'm guessing is a retainer spring in the middle back edge of the brake caliper that was broken. Thought maybe that was the culprit but right at the end of my test drive the noise came back. She's breaking perfect again with no issues and the A4WD is working fine but as I was puking back into my apartment that noise popped back in for about a sec. Gonna look into the wheel beating when I get a chance but it will have to wait until I can afford the part and can afford to have my daily out of commission for a bit. Gonna have to look at how hard it will be to replace the wheel bearing

 

[whtbronco]

Man it sucks to think you got something fixed and then find out it's not. The wheel bearings are not that hard to replace. Book time is 1hr, took me closer to 2hrs each, if you have only hand tools and you haven't done them on the Expedition previously figure on 3hrs.

Front wheel bearing hub process:
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor, 9ft lbs.
Remove the axle nut dust cap.
Remove the axle nut, 20ft lbs.
Stick a screwdriver in the rotor against the caliper bracket to remove the axle nut.
The axle nut is intended as one time use, I just use blue thread locker and reuse them.
Remove the caliper bracket bolts, 148ft lbs.
Remove the 4 wheel bearing hub bolts, 148ft lbs.

You may need to push the caliper piston back in a bit to get the pads, caliper and bracket back over the rotor.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

Yeah so the noise went compelling away for more than a month then on a trip back from picking up my fiance from the hospital a different rubbing noise started that got faster with speed. Noticeable wheel wiggle and the cv axle boot on that wheel is shot. Also noticed a bad ball joint on that side.

 

[whtbronco]

If your ball joint is worn enough that the tire and wheel are moving around it's certainly shot. Sounds like the control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, IWE's(4wd hubs), wheel bearing hubs and CV axles need to be closely inspected.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

Yeah, I had a mechanic friend of mine come by and help me look at it and he recommended replacing the upper ball joint, the CV axle, and the wheel hub. He recommended going wheel hub versus just replacing the bearing because there are a few other things that he saw in there that looked like they were worn down. And seeing as how it's all the original parts from 2006 with 170,000 miles on them, it's probably a good idea for me to just replace the entire wheel hub instead of trying to remove a bearing. I'm going to have to use RockAuto for most of this as that's all I can really afford. One thing I noted is the only upper ball joint that they have for that Expedition is a greasable instead of a sealed one. Looking elsewhere a sealed one is going to cost me twice what the greaseable one that they have on RockAuto so looks like I'm going to be adding potentially new Grease to my upper ball joints to my annual maintenance LOL

 

[Fastcar]

Yeah, I had a mechanic friend of mine come by and help me look at it and he recommended replacing the upper ball joint, the CV axle, and the wheel hub. He recommended going wheel hub versus just replacing the bearing because there are a few other things that he saw in there that looked like they were worn down. And seeing as how it's all the original parts from 2006 with 170,000 miles on them, it's probably a good idea for me to just replace the entire wheel hub instead of trying to remove a bearing. I'm going to have to use RockAuto for most of this as that's all I can really afford. One thing I noted is the only upper ball joint that they have for that Expedition is a greasable instead of a sealed one. Looking elsewhere a sealed one is going to cost me twice what the greaseable one that they have on RockAuto so looks like I'm going to be adding potentially new Grease to my upper ball joints to my annual maintenance LOL

That greasable ball joint is a good thing imo. As sombody said, put it into 4WD once a month on a straightaway for a few miles. That will keep things lubed.

 

[whtbronco]

Unless your friend knows something I have never seen the front upper ball joints are not replaceable. You have to replace the entire control arm. The lower ball joints are certainly replaceable and it's not that hard nor terribly costly. I used the MOOG K500060 lower ball joint with good results. Moog isn't what they used to be, but the ball joint seemed good and the K series of parts is their better quality line.

I wasn't aware you could replace the bearing in the wheel bearing hub assembly either. I thought you always had to replace the entire assembly. I looked at mine when I removed them and sure I could get them open, but I am certain I could not get them closed and sealed again.

I use RockAuto for a great deal of my parts, there's nothing wrong with them. They are really just a nationwide supplier turned retailer. Keep in mind they sell both quality and junk parts. Like wheel bearing hubs I'd stay away from unknown brands, if OEM are not available I'd get Moog or Timken. I was not pleased with the set of SKF hubs I got from RockAuto and sent them back prior to install.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

I snagged some MOOG wheel hubs from rock auto. I've used their stuff before and have liked what I've seen so it was a no brainer for me.

I didn't realize that they weren't replaceable on the Ford especially considering so many companies sell upper ball joints specifically for that model. Yeah I tried looking up any kind of instructions on how to replace those and I got nothing. That part of the job might have to wait until a lot later than. Not sure I can afford the upper control arms right now

 

[GngrBeardMan]

So after a month of not having my car I finally was able to get all the old parts out and started putting in the new. Running into a few issues. Mostly with the new ball joints in the upper control arms. Can't seem to get the center shaft to not spin long enough to to torque it down. I've tried using a pry bar and pushing down on the control arm but that doesn't help. And unfortunately my only torque wrench won't allow me to hold the shift with anything. Anyone got any tips?

 

[GngrBeardMan]

Guess I should add that i got a new cv axle, wheel hubs for both sides, upper control arms for both sides, and an outer tie rod end because I had to cut the old one off the driver side.

 

[whtbronco]

I may be too late, but you can jack up the lower control arm to help hold the upper ball joint stud. Don't lift the truck off the jack stand though. Or maybe even a ratchet strap to pull the upper control arm down to the spindle. A pry bar sounds like a good idea, but you already tried that. It might take lifting the spindle via the lower control using a jack and then a pry bar to push the upper control arm down.

I can't remember tightening the upper ball joint being an issue. Maybe it was.