Owners of 2015-2017 Models - is yours reliable?

[dl2011ms3]

Would you have the part number from your repair invoice? Thank you.

I'm going to have to search for the paperwork. But I will get back to you in a couple days. It will take me a while to find it


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[L Antoino]

I have a 2015 limited demo with 5000 miles bought in 2016. Went up to 20k miles before problems started to show up. First was the front rotors getting warped. Brought to the dealership to get them turned, the service adviser told me the front pads where worn out. I told him to just resurface rotors and I'll fix the pads myself. When the truck was returned, they charge me almost $600 for pads and rotors. I complained to the manager and they gave me the rotors and pads free of charge. After that, I was driving the truck for a few days when I noticed that the front driver side wheel was scorching hot. I checked the pads, one was worn out at an angle and that side of the rotor had a mirror finish. Turns out the dealer installed all the inner pads on the driver side and outer pads on the passenger side. so I changed all four rotors and pads myself. At that time, I noticed that both front struts where leaking fluid, so I went back to the dealer to have it repaired under warranty. I left the truck at the dealer for the day and did not hear a word from them until I called them to find out what they plan to do. Dealer told me that the fluid leak was normal and no repair was needed. So I took the truck home and bought parts online and replaced them myself. Now at 45k, the AC blower stops working when you crank it up in hot weather and the front driver side tie rod boot is torn and leaking out grease. I already bought parts to replace them. I just need to find time and nice weather to fix them. I would never again take my truck to a Texas ford dealer except for maybe oil changes.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

I have a 2015 limited demo with 5000 miles bought in 2016. Went up to 20k miles before problems started to show up. First was the front rotors getting warped. Brought to the dealership to get them turned, the service adviser told me the front pads where worn out. I told him to just resurface rotors and I'll fix the pads myself. When the truck was returned, they charge me almost $600 for pads and rotors. I complained to the manager and they gave me the rotors and pads free of charge. After that, I was driving the truck for a few days when I noticed that the front driver side wheel was scorching hot. I checked the pads, one was worn out at an angle and that side of the rotor had a mirror finish. Turns out the dealer installed all the inner pads on the driver side and outer pads on the passenger side. so I changed all four rotors and pads myself. At that time, I noticed that both front struts where leaking fluid, so I went back to the dealer to have it repaired under warranty. I left the truck at the dealer for the day and did not hear a word from them until I called them to find out what they plan to do. Dealer told me that the fluid leak was normal and no repair was needed. So I took the truck home and bought parts online and replaced them myself. Now at 45k, the AC blower stops working when you crank it up in hot weather and the front driver side tie rod boot is torn and leaking out grease. I already bought parts to replace them. I just need to find time and nice weather to fix them. I would never again take my truck to a Texas ford dealer except for maybe oil changes.

Interesting.

I bought a new 2015 Ford Expedition Limited 4x4. At 6,*** miles, the RF shock began to leak (noticed by dealer tech). It was replaced under warranty, but the part was on back-order for about one month.

At about 25,*** miles, all four rotors were machined under warranty due to vibration when braking. I do not tow or haul with the vehicle, strictly passenger use - and primarily on rural state route highways.

I replaced the brake pads and rotors with OEM Motorcraft parts on all four wheels at about 46,*** miles. The dealer said the rear brake pads only had 10% left then. My son replaced the parts for me.

It sounds as though the 2015 models had poor quality rotors and pads, and poor quality shocks. The service advisor said at the time that he had seen a few new 2015 Expeditions with leaking shocks.

 

[5x10]

Took it from 35k to 77k
So far, needed o2 sensor and spark plugs and a single coil change

Not bad
The expe is a beast, hauls our large family of 5 effortlessly

 

[MidwestBoater]

Yep. Bought our 2016 used in 2017 and now have 92,*** miles on it. Stock except for a 5 star 87 perf/tow tune and changing it to side exit exhaust. Synthetic oil changes every 5k since new, air filters every 10k, I've serviced the T case, trans, and both differentials once, and changed the spark plugs and boots. Original brakes still. The only problem I've had was the blow off valve diaphragm, which tore, that was a cheap/easy fix. I tow a tritoon with it, we just got back from 2 weeks at 2 different lakes, about 700 miles total of towing. 9-10mpg towing, 20-21mpg to/from work. It's an awesome vehicle.

 

[Erzebet]

Still good to go?


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Update: I continued to receive the "Service Advancetrac" and "Hill Descent Control Faults" on the dash and that rumbling/grinding/shuddering during turns at slow speed had gotten progressively worse since last summer. I finally made an appointment with the Dealer for January 23, 2020 to have this mini-laundry list of items resolved. I specifically asked them to check the rear end as I suspected that my clutch packs were bad....(thank you forum!)

After nearly two weeks at the dealer (I had a loaner car), I am pleased to report that they found the clutch packs to be "burnt and stuck". They replaced the clutch packs under warranty (I have 49K). Also, technician suspected that the constant intermittent "Service Advancetrac" and "Hill Descent Control Faults" may have been a result of that grinding rear causing erratic readings at the brake pedal switch. They replaced the switch.

Based on this forum, and my own experience - it is evident that the clutch packs in the EL rears for these model years fail prematurely. The information shared in this forum definitely helped me get this issue resolved. Thanks again!!

 

[mike foster]

Add the transmission cooler, it is pretty easy to do. Towing 6k pounds in the mountains, my 17 EL never goes higher than 212 and only peaks there for a few seconds.

Which cooler did you add? If you have a sec please link or list the parts you used. I'm good with the wrench and just bought my '17 XLT and the build sheet has the 3.73 gear as an added option but no cooling package!

 

[B-McD]

Mike - You have the 3.73 gear and the build sheet. So I assume you do NOT have the heavy duty tow package as well? The additional cooling comes with the HD tow. At least on my 2016 it does.

 

[mike foster]

Yep. Bought our 2016 used in 2017 and now have 92,*** miles on it. Stock except for a 5 star 87 perf/tow tune and changing it to side exit exhaust. Synthetic oil changes every 5k since new, air filters every 10k, I've serviced the T case, trans, and both differentials once, and changed the spark plugs and boots. Original brakes still. The only problem I've had was the blow off valve diaphragm, which tore, that was a cheap/easy fix. I tow a tritoon with it, we just got back from 2 weeks at 2 different lakes, about 700 miles total of towing. 9-10mpg towing, 20-21mpg to/from work. It's an awesome vehicle.

Ah -now I'm right behind you with 76K on my (last month) new to me '17. I really like this rig and it feels like everything I've been looking for as a mature adult. It's RWD only with a 3.73 optional gear and nice OEM 20" wheels. Having that odd little idle shudder and a "more odd" chuggle when coasting (deceleration) down between 30 and 20mph -feels like the 3rd gear lock up is trying to decide what to do. My wife drievs it occasionaly and says "stop trying to find something wrong". Last week I changed plugs but got lazy and handed my new Motorcraft SP580 plugs to a fairly sharp Firestone mechanic and said "be sure to gap them at thirty, no more" (magic marker on the boxes too). Didn't seem to help the idle -maybe slightly. Yesterday I cleaned the 3 MAP sensors -same result there. Am leaning toward a 5 Star for towing a 25' RV but don't want to tune until I'm solid on the idle and coasting oddities. Also want to know what brands of oils you're using in the engine and rear diff. The Ford dealer I bought it from changed oil and the little window sticker says 5W20 don't know if it was dino or syn. I removed a pint and added Liqui Moly MoS2 anti-friction and then will start running whatever everyone here thinks best. Want to keep this rig on the road for a long time. Reply when you can. Mike

 

[mike foster]

Mike - You have the 3.73 gear and the build sheet. So I assume you do NOT have the heavy duty tow package as well? The additional cooling comes with the HD tow. At least on my 2016 it does.

Correct -the gear was a customer added option along with the 20" wheels.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

Ah -now I'm right behind you with 76K on my (last month) new to me '17. I really like this rig and it feels like everything I've been looking for as a mature adult. It's RWD only with a 3.73 optional gear and nice OEM 20" wheels. Having that odd little idle shudder and a "more odd" chuggle when coasting (deceleration) down between 30 and 20mph -feels like the 3rd gear lock up is trying to decide what to do. My wife drievs it occasionaly and says "stop trying to find something wrong". Last week I changed plugs but got lazy and handed my new Motorcraft SP580 plugs to a fairly sharp Firestone mechanic and said "be sure to gap them at thirty, no more" (magic marker on the boxes too). Didn't seem to help the idle -maybe slightly. Yesterday I cleaned the 3 MAP sensors -same result there. Am leaning toward a 5 Star for towing a 25' RV but don't want to tune until I'm solid on the idle and coasting oddities. Also want to know what brands of oils you're using in the engine and rear diff. The Ford dealer I bought it from changed oil and the little window sticker says 5W20 don't know if it was dino or syn. I removed a pint and added Liqui Moly MoS2 anti-friction and then will start running whatever everyone here thinks best. Want to keep this rig on the road for a long time. Reply when you can. Mike

Ford recommends 5W30 oil, not 5W20.

Several times the selling/servicing Ford dealership for my 2015 Ford Expedition Limited 4x4 put the wrong oil in engine, and I had to take it back. One time the service advisor said “his guys” weren't’ used to the 5W30 requirement yet. I’m assuming he meant his “factory trained technicians” that “know my vehicle best”.

 

[MidwestBoater]

Ah -now I'm right behind you with 76K on my (last month) new to me '17. I really like this rig and it feels like everything I've been looking for as a mature adult. It's RWD only with a 3.73 optional gear and nice OEM 20" wheels. Having that odd little idle shudder and a "more odd" chuggle when coasting (deceleration) down between 30 and 20mph -feels like the 3rd gear lock up is trying to decide what to do. My wife drievs it occasionaly and says "stop trying to find something wrong". Last week I changed plugs but got lazy and handed my new Motorcraft SP580 plugs to a fairly sharp Firestone mechanic and said "be sure to gap them at thirty, no more" (magic marker on the boxes too). Didn't seem to help the idle -maybe slightly. Yesterday I cleaned the 3 MAP sensors -same result there. Am leaning toward a 5 Star for towing a 25' RV but don't want to tune until I'm solid on the idle and coasting oddities. Also want to know what brands of oils you're using in the engine and rear diff. The Ford dealer I bought it from changed oil and the little window sticker says 5W20 don't know if it was dino or syn. I removed a pint and added Liqui Moly MoS2 anti-friction and then will start running whatever everyone here thinks best. Want to keep this rig on the road for a long time. Reply when you can. Mike

I use Mobil 1 5w30 full syn for the engine, Mobil 1 full syn gear lube for the differentials, and Motorcraft Mercon LV for the transmission and T case.

 

[mike foster]

I use Mobil 1 5w30 full syn for the engine, Mobil 1 full syn gear lube for the differentials, and Motorcraft Mercon LV for the transmission and T case.

With the M1 full syn lube are you adding any Ford XL-3 Friction Modifier or Trans-X® Posi Trac® Limited Slip Gear Oil Additive to your read end? At 76k I am just noticing a groaning sound when from a dead stop I accelerate into a sharp turn left or right (like turning onto a side street from a stop sign). Since it has the LS rear end that has to be clutch packs, right?

 

[mike foster]

Ford recommends 5W30 oil, not 5W20.

Several times the selling/servicing Ford dealership for my 2015 Ford Expedition Limited 4x4 put the wrong oil in engine, and I had to take it back. One time the service advisor said “his guys” weren't’ used to the 5W30 requirement yet. I’m assuming he meant his “factory trained technicians” that “know my vehicle best”.

Yeah I am def going to move to 5W30 -I live down here in NOLA and it's always a million degrees! I'll catch it soon and am eager to get my hands on this "plastic oil plug" I've been reading about. So with 76k would you guys go ahead and do both the rear and the trans?

 

[MidwestBoater]

With the M1 full syn lube are you adding any Ford XL-3 Friction Modifier or Trans-X® Posi Trac® Limited Slip Gear Oil Additive to your read end? At 76k I am just noticing a groaning sound when from a dead stop I accelerate into a sharp turn left or right (like turning onto a side street from a stop sign). Since it has the LS rear end that has to be clutch packs, right?

No, my truck doesn't have a limited slip rear diff.

 

[jeff kushner]

In the rear of my '17, I used Marine gear oil and added the Ford modifier at 38K.....silent since and I'm now at 85K



jeff

 

[mike foster]

In the rear of my '17, I used Marine gear oil and added the Ford modifier at 38K.....silent since and I'm now at 85K

Ford recommends 5W30 oil, not 5W20.

Several times the selling/servicing Ford dealership for my 2015 Ford Expedition Limited 4x4 put the wrong oil in engine, and I had to take it back. One time the service advisor said “his guys” weren't’ used to the 5W30 requirement yet. I’m assuming he meant his “factory trained technicians” that “know my vehicle best”.

So earlier this week I talked to the Ford service writer where I bought my used 2017 w/75K and he boldly stated "we use bulk 5W20 in everything unless the customer asks for something else". I'm not real concerned as the temps have remained cool here -already bought some Penzoil Platinum 5w30 for next month's change.

Question: Has anyone looked into Liqui Moly oils and additives? They've got some pretty great reviews from enthusiasts and I've added the MoS2 to my Expedition, my son's 4.0L Explorer, my lawn mower and my portable generator. The only instant improvement has been with the lawn mower. From brand new it has always puffed smoke at start up. It hasn't puffed since I added about an ounce of the MoS2. Maybe it's as good as it seems? They've even got a syn transmission fluid that meets the Mercon LV spec. What say ye?

 

[iamthedavem]

I have a 2016 Expedition XLT. Last week I was driving and got a low brake fluid warning with no corresponding change in braking performance. I was not far from home, so I drove the rest of the way home and checked my brake fluid when I arrived. The fluid was completely empty! I refilled the reservoir and then checked the brakes again and they seemed to be working fine. I didn't see any fluid on the wheels or anywhere else so I assumed maybe my brakes had worn down and the calipers were extended enough to reduce the fluid in the reservoir. I made a mental note to take a good look at the pads and rotors when I got a chance. A few hours later, I needed to go somewhere but when I started to leave, I had no brakes at all! I checked and found the brake fluid had run completely out again. There was no fluid on the ground or on any of the calipers so I deduced that it must have leaked into the brake booster.

Knowing the booster was most likely full of brake fluid, I decided that I would replace both the booster and the master cylinder. I ordered both (remanufactured) from O'Reilly's, picked them up and installed them the next day. After installation, I still could not get the pedal to stop going to the floor. I only replaced the master cylinder so I felt pretty sure there was no air further down in the hydraulic lines. I bled the master cylinder and the distribution block that the two master cylinder lines are attached to where they split up and go to each wheel. The pedal still did not stop going to the floor and the brake fluid level was not getting lower except for what was expected due to bleeding. I decided to bleed the entire system and ended up bleeding out 2 quarts of brake fluid but the pedal still did not stop going to the floor.

I called O'Reilly's and arranged to get replacements for both items, specifying that I wanted a new (not rebuilt) master cylinder. I had to wait a couple of days to get the parts but O'Reilly's exchanged them both for me only charging me the difference between the rebuilt master cylinder and the new one. After replacing them both again, everything went like clockwork and my brakes were working normally again.

What really bothered me was the fact that the master cylinder failed at 43K miles and it went from working fine to no brakes at all in a short time. Had I continued to drive immediately after refilling my master cylinder, I could easily have gotten into an accident because it would not stop without using the parking brake. This problem should not have happened. I have had other cars with master cylinders that failed but they all failed gradually. You could still drive and as long as you pumped the brakes they still worked, giving you time to get it fixed.
My confidence if American cars containing parts manufactured in Mexico is not high.

I have been a Ford owner since the 60's but since Biden's policies are encouraging U.S. Manufacturers to move back to Mexico, my next car purchase will probably be for a more reliable car built in Japan or Germany and I doubt I will buy any more rebuilt hydraulic parts in the future. I used to be a mechanic years ago and I installed lots of rebuilt master cylinders, but I don't ever remember one failing immediately on installation.

 

[jeff kushner]

Sounds like an anomaly as Brake's haven't been seen as an issue. Ironic that I just logged on as I just ordered Rotors/ceramics from Rock Auto before we go on vacation.

My mileage is now at 115K...no runs, no drips, no errors. 18.4mpg over the life of the truck.

Oh yeah, the console spring...it broke a couple months ago. The only thing that has.............

jeff

 

[Machete]

Sounds like we’re due for another “ Who has most mileage...” thread.