Paint Bubbling, We need EVERYONE to register a complaint! READ FORDS RESPONSE!!!

[Ben Ford]

Rust on the rocker panels and the paint defect being discussed in this thread are two different issues.


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My bad. Haven't found a thread of someone else with a similar issue and that it might apply hear as it is corrosion and can be an extension of the bubbling located at the hood and lift gate. Like I stated I didn't get to see it in it's beginning and I am sure there was bubbling to begin with and this could cause some owners to look at the rocker panels as well to further investigation their corrosion issue.

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[Big Brian]

nothing wrong with starting a new thread.

 

[Ben Ford]

nothing wrong with starting a new thread.

Yea that's waht I'll end up doing.

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[Ben Ford]

Yea that's waht I'll end up doing.

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*what

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[llhoneymoons]

Well, less than 2 years old and starting to rust. This is at the bottom of the rear hatch. It is about 4 inches long.

I have the car washed at least once a week so it should not be a 'salt' issue.

I have sent a tweet to Ford service. I am concerned about it being the same if repaired at the dealer.

Any thoughts?

 

[Muddy Bean]

There’s 365 “thoughts” on this thread. Not much more to say here except good luck chasing Ford on this. I’d recommend getting some of the mentioned paint chemists involved and engaging in a small claims court suit. You’ll get some $$$ hopefully for your effort but there doesn’t appear to be a permanent fix. I wish someone made aftermarket steel liftgates and hoods but for now nada.


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[J Ski]

Well, less than 2 years old and starting to rust. This is at the bottom of the rear hatch. It is about 4 inches long.

I have the car washed at least once a week so it should not be a 'salt' issue.

I have sent a tweet to Ford service. I am concerned about it being the same if repaired at the dealer.

Any thoughts?

View attachment 24738

What year

 

[oldpaddy]

The hood and tailgate on my '14 are bubbling around the edges.
I can only imagine what the full aluminium bodies will look like in a 5 years.

 

[Muddy Bean]

The hood and tailgate on my '14 are bubbling around the edges.
I can only imagine what the full aluminium bodies will look like in a 5 years.

They will look just fine. Spend some time reading through this thread and you’ll find that this was an issue with the stamping equipment used on certain models. It was rectified for future trucks.


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[Dorzak]

Well, less than 2 years old and starting to rust. This is at the bottom of the rear hatch. It is about 4 inches long.

I have the car washed at least once a week so it should not be a 'salt' issue.

I have sent a tweet to Ford service. I am concerned about it being the same if repaired at the dealer.

Any thoughts?

It isn't rust in the traditional sense. It is dissimilar metal issues with iron contamination on or in the aluminum panel.

This looks identical to what I had, except paint color. First, are you under 36,000 miles? If so, it should be relatively simple to get the dealer to look into it.

So before you begin the fight to get it covered some suggestions on how to play hardball:

• Print out and take a copy of the TSB with you.
• Find out who regulates automobile issues in your state both for vehicle quality, repair and also dealers licensing. California that is the Department of Consumer Affairs, Bureau of Automotive Repair, and DMV Office of Investigations respectively. Make a note of which agencies they are and their phone number on the TSB print out. When you show the TSB to the dealer they will recognize the agencies names and know you have researched it.
• If not getting any traction, go over and talk to a sales manager, on the showroom floor in front of customers looking at new vehicles. Mention the year of your vehicle, the short time you have owned it, etc. The sales manager will start pushing the service department on your behalf because what you are saying can affect their sales.
• Mine was a CPO with less than 500 miles from leaving the lot when I noticed it. When coverage was first denied I went to the showroom, and discussed it with several managers. I made a point that Ford's owner phone number had already told me that this wasn't covered under CPO warranty, but would have been under the first 36,000 miles. I pointed out they told me the 12 month/12,000 covered the same as the original 3 year/36,000. In front of customers.

If over 36,000 miles, try to get the dealer to escalate the issue to Ford. Hang around a little while after they start it. With any luck they will do the moulding tape test, and pull paint up. When that happens Ford will probably cover it. Have the TSB with you to reference so they plan on replacement instead of just repainting. I didn't take them the TSB until they had already started the work so mine was repainted.

The category Ford tries to put it under is the 36,000 mile warranty. There is a 100,000 mile corrosion warranty, but Ford tried to say it only covered corrosion through the panel. The point of the moulding tape test was to test to see if it was sufficient to break the paint adhesion.

 

[llhoneymoons]

What year

I just realized it did not have this in my signature.

It is a 2016.

 

[llhoneymoons]

It isn't rust in the traditional sense. It is dissimilar metal issues with iron contamination on or in the aluminum panel.

This looks identical to what I had, except paint color. First, are you under 36,000 miles? If so, it should be relatively simple to get the dealer to look into it.

So before you begin the fight to get it covered some suggestions on how to play hardball:

• Print out and take a copy of the TSB with you.
• Find out who regulates automobile issues in your state both for vehicle quality, repair and also dealers licensing. California that is the Department of Consumer Affairs, Bureau of Automotive Repair, and DMV Office of Investigations respectively. Make a note of which agencies they are and their phone number on the TSB print out. When you show the TSB to the dealer they will recognize the agencies names and know you have researched it.
• If not getting any traction, go over and talk to a sales manager, on the showroom floor in front of customers looking at new vehicles. Mention the year of your vehicle, the short time you have owned it, etc. The sales manager will start pushing the service department on your behalf because what you are saying can affect their sales.
• Mine was a CPO with less than 500 miles from leaving the lot when I noticed it. When coverage was first denied I went to the showroom, and discussed it with several managers. I made a point that Ford's owner phone number had already told me that this wasn't covered under CPO warranty, but would have been under the first 36,000 miles. I pointed out they told me the 12 month/12,000 covered the same as the original 3 year/36,000. In front of customers.

If over 36,000 miles, try to get the dealer to escalate the issue to Ford. Hang around a little while after they start it. With any luck they will do the moulding tape test, and pull paint up. When that happens Ford will probably cover it. Have the TSB with you to reference so they plan on replacement instead of just repainting. I didn't take them the TSB until they had already started the work so mine was repainted.

The category Ford tries to put it under is the 36,000 mile warranty. There is a 100,000 mile corrosion warranty, but Ford tried to say it only covered corrosion through the panel. The point of the moulding tape test was to test to see if it was sufficient to break the paint adhesion.

This is some great info. Thank you for the thorough reply.

I will reach out to the dealer.

I also tweeted Ford service, but no response.

 

[LJ4174]

LOTS of GREAT info here... Thanks...

I've seen the paint bubbling on 3 or 4 Expeditions I looked at and honestly, I can't say I looked close enough to the first one, perhaps it was there as well. Anyway...

Is there anyway to prevent this? Wax or a treatment of some sort? It seems like from what I'm reading, this is happening below the painted surface. Is this just something we need to deal with and have repainted at some point?

 

[Plati]

LOTS of GREAT info here... Thanks...

I've seen the paint bubbling on 3 or 4 Expeditions I looked at and honestly, I can't say I looked close enough to the first one, perhaps it was there as well. Anyway...

Is there anyway to prevent this? Wax or a treatment of some sort? It seems like from what I'm reading, this is happening below the painted surface. Is this just something we need to deal with and have repainted at some point?

Like Dorzak said, the root cause is under the paint at the aluminum surface. Cant put anything on top of paint to stop it. On my 2003 XLT I have this on the hood and the tailgate. Its an appearance problem, not functional. It looks like crap but everything still works OK. There is a Ford TSB (cited on previous post) out that specifies a way to take it down to the base aluminum surface and repaint it "properly" if the appearance is unacceptable.

I was thinking about removing all the paint from my 2003 hood and buffing up the aluminum hood, thought that would look unique.

 

[theoldwizard1]

There is a Ford TSB (cited on previous post) out that specifies a way to take it down to the base aluminum surface and repaint it "properly" ...

I talked to one "bump and paint" guy and he says when he repairs these it is much more involved but he has never had one fail.

First he remove the hatch from the vehicleand completely disassembles it, including all of the exterior and interior windows, locking and wiper mechanisms. The inside and outside of the shell are sand blasted. After a through cleaning he uses the same zinc chromate (weird green color) that they use on aluminum aircraft. After 24 hours he applies filler if necessary and/or a high build primer. More sanding, color coat and clear coat then final re-assembling.

Lots of labor, $$$$ !

 

[Muddy Bean]

Wizard,

I have an aluminum sheet metaled coach Bus that I painted. I used aluma prep which is exactly the zinc chromate stuff. Yep, weird green color, and yes it etches the aluminum. But it works. That paint job is tough as nails.


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[mjp2]

I was thinking about removing all the paint from my 2003 hood and buffing up the aluminum hood, thought that would look unique.

Would definitely be a cool look. From a practical standpoint, I hope you don't commute into the sun. The glare would have you painting the thing muscle-car flat black by the weekend.

 

[Flexpedition]

I was thinking about removing all the paint from my 2003 hood and buffing up the aluminum hood, thought that would look unique.

Along those same lines is this:


Aluminum wasn't polished, but left more of a Coors Light beer can natural look

 

[Muddy Bean]

That is actually kind of cool, but the problem is unless you clearcoat it, that aluminum is going to oxidize badly. And a relatively short amount of time too. If you clearcoat it the steel that is compromising the aluminum panels in the problem trucks is still there and going to cause galvanic corrosion which will cause the clearcoat to peel and you’re in the same position as before. At least that is my theory. Might be complete hogwash.


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[Big Brian]

I am sure that is clear coated or anodized or something

cant be raw aluminum