Power running board is shot

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Lostneye

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Posts
276
Reaction score
24
Location
NY
I use Fordparts.com(it's Ford's official site) to find part numbers and then search the web for a good price.

I recently replaced parts on my 05 Navi power running board and purchased from Tasca. I believe 2nd gens are a totally different design power running board though.
 

Bentley

New Member
Joined
May 12, 2018
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Michigan
Has anyone had trouble removing the old motor from the bracket to install the new one? I ordered new motors for both power running boards. I removed the 3 bolts, lubricated the hinges, but the slotted steel rod will not come out of the bracket. I have been beating it with a punch but it will not budge. HELP?
 

Adieu

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Posts
3,717
Reaction score
798
Location
SoCal
Does anybody know of a way to disable the power running board on driver's side thru software vs. unplugging it?

Will it show an error if left unplugged? Will it stay retracted if unplugged?
 

StephanSloan

Active Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2017
Posts
42
Reaction score
13
Location
East Greenwich, RI
Has anyone had trouble removing the old motor from the bracket to install the new one? I ordered new motors for both power running boards. I removed the 3 bolts, lubricated the hinges, but the slotted steel rod will not come out of the bracket. I have been beating it with a punch but it will not budge. HELP?
Mine were very tight. I used a pulley puller like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-1-2-in-Evaporative-Cooler-Pulley-Puller-6100/100122345 along with heavy doses of CorosionX and heat on the aluminum bracket. Good luck and take your time if you can.
Regards,
Stephan
 

1955moose

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Posts
6,004
Reaction score
1,351
Has anybody not noticed this is a 4 year old thread!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 

1955moose

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Posts
6,004
Reaction score
1,351
Maybe it's relevant, but dragging on a 4 year old thread, the problem is the original posters are usually long gone. So who are you going to banter with? Your basically talking to yourself. It's better to start a new thread if original is more than 6 months old. That way you've got a fresh group to bounce off of. At least that's what I've been told.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 

Alberstadt

Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2018
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Southeast
How difficult is it to replace the motor on these running boards? Passenger side went out. anyone have advice? I got the new motor.
 

Gary Waugh

Full Access Members
Joined
Jun 27, 2017
Posts
550
Reaction score
287
Location
Princeton, TX
As stated at the start of this thread, the motor unit is actually mounted by 3 bolts plus another bolt that tightens a wedge to lock the step mechanism to the motor unit output shaft. These 4 bolts and the electrical connector are very easy to remove. However the problem remains getting the motor unit output shaft to slide/come out of the step mechanism. I tried with heat and hammers and nothing worked, I eventually cut the shaft with an angle grinder and then removed the motor unit and tapped the remaining (cut off) part of the shaft out of the mechanism. I still have no idea why it would not slide out as it came very easily once I cut the shaft!! Installing the new motor unit was very quick and easy and the new unit is very quiet compared to the old unit and much lighter, time will tell how reliable it is, but as stated, apart from sliding the drive shaft out of the step mechanism, this is a really easy job. I actually removed the entire step from the car (just 8 bolts) so that it was easier to access the motor unit and mounting bolts, but it's not really required, but does make it easier.. The entire job took me about an hour for the drivers side (Passenger side still works fine, but I now notice how noisy it is compared to the repaired drivers side!! so I may change it soon just because the noise bothers me!).

Gary
 
Last edited:

jeff kushner

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 30, 2014
Posts
2,330
Reaction score
1,276
Location
North of Annapolis
We've gone over this several times but for those that haven't seen, Motorcycle chain lube is one of the best lubricants for this because it sprays on very, very thin and penetrates well before the "carrier" fluid evaporate leaving a high quality lube behind....Wash, let dry for a day or so , then spray!

Nearly all of these cases appear to be "linkage/gear failure oriented.

jeff
 

Powerplay

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2019
Posts
17
Reaction score
1
Location
America
We have a 2012 Expy EL with the passenger side running board not retracting up. Replaced the motor, cleaned the moving parts and bracket. The running board starts to go up then stops, will go up all the way with my help. It appears there is an idler assembly that helps move the board equally. There is possibly some corrosion preventing the board assembly from moving smoothly. Does anyone know if the idler assembly can be purchased as new Aftermarket? Not looking for parts from junk yard/used.

Front mud flaps would help this design from Ford factory as standard with power boards motor behind front tires.

Hope post is in correct thread.

Thank you,
B
 

jeff kushner

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 30, 2014
Posts
2,330
Reaction score
1,276
Location
North of Annapolis
You may be able to "breath new life" into your sagging RB if you spend some time underneath, with a soft wire brush....obviously, be very careful around rubber/electrics. Once cleaned, you may be able to discern where and why it is hanging up. It's my understanding that these will stop very quickly if the board meets resistance when moving.

jeff
 

Jon1985

Active Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2017
Posts
39
Reaction score
14
Location
Cinnaminson NJ
When I first got my 2010 the driver side would try to go up then go back down . But after reading online some people had the same issues all you have to do is spray all the joints / connections penetrating oil once and awhile I’ve haven’t had a problem since I’ve been doing that .
 

Powerplay

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2019
Posts
17
Reaction score
1
Location
America
Replaced the motor, cleaned and lubricated moving parts..it’s as if the idler assembly or board may be slightly bent or sagging enough that the motor safety feature takes over then won’t allow the motor to completely retract board. Noticed a symptom when board goes down when door is opened, about half way going to completely down/out position the board flops as if it’s not coupled??? Could the replacement motor be defective? Why would board flop down half way through the cycle as if it’s moving freely for a moment due to gravity.
 

coupe11

Full Access Members
Joined
Aug 9, 2019
Posts
166
Reaction score
90
Location
Virginia
"Flopping" sounds like slop. Slop makes you think of worn bushings, gears, shafts, etc. that allow uncontrolled movement.
 

Powerplay

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2019
Posts
17
Reaction score
1
Location
America
Exactly, while it’s a new motor and mating gear appears fine. I’d like to also replace the idler assembly rod. Have been spraying all moving parts daily and working grease in with movement. However, it sounds like the only way to get the idler assembly is buying new running board assembly. No luck finding only the assembly new, short of going to junk yard hoping used part will work....Thank you for replies everyone. Now need to find new replacement idler assembly as the motor is new and hinges move freely.

If not repaired before the snow flys, is it better to unplug motor and leave the board in down position or up position? It’s on passenger side not being used as much as driver side.
 
Last edited:

Bill Schmidt

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Posts
16
Reaction score
4
Location
Omaha, NE
MVIMG_20191012_122435.jpg IMG_20191012_122841.jpg I just recently got my 2010 expedition ... talked to the previous owner (left docs in glove box) and he said the auto running boards died a slow death till he just put them up and left them up.

After reading here I lowered them and cleaned them up kept working in the WD40 and finally they ruan properly .... Until they didn't!!! LOL

So I finally found that for some reason they are holding a lot of water in them. (driving in rain)

and it was not weeping out very much.

I also noticed that if I just barely assisted the RB going UP it wold go just fine ... hardly any pressure ... Like it was just had a bit of extra weight... hmmmmm

So I drilled a small weep hole in it a (SEE PICTURE) ... GUSH lots of water trapped in there.

And nicely all that extra loss of weight it works fine again.

Last note ... while I was in weep hole mode. (its a thing) ... the passenger rear door actually sloshed when you moved it ... so it too had water that took forever to weep out. Good thing this is all aluminum.
 
Last edited:
Top