Proper Cooling System Flush Procedure (2012 w/ Rear System)

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

rameredit

Member
Joined
May 1, 2019
Posts
14
Reaction score
6
Location
US
I have a 2012 EL w/ the rear heat/cool. Aside from draining the radiator, refilling and calling it good - I'd like to do complete flush. Are you all aware of any writeups on this? Mainly, I'm unsure about the rear system and how it's integrated w/ the front. I've looked through the service manual and didn't find anything to my liking. ;-)

ETA: By flush, I mean drain the system completely. Refill w/ distilled water & a cooling system flush product. Run it, drain it, flush it clean, refill it, etc.

-NA
 

Flexpedition

Full Access Members
Joined
May 26, 2015
Posts
1,339
Reaction score
662
Location
midwest
Think of the rear core as an extension of the front. There isn't an additional thermostat inline that would prohibit coolant circulation from front to rear.

The petcock at the passenger bottom of the radiator is lower than both cores, so as long as draining on a flat surface, maybe a little nose downhill grade, gravity will ensure a good of a drain as you are going to get.

I drained mine, refilled with distilled like you planned on doing, ran a few miles with front & rear heat on, and what I emptied contained very little coolant. There wasn't enough to make me consider a second flush. Had a few gallons of distilled on hand and using it was easier than dragging out the garden hose for tap water anyway.

The rear is integrated with the front via a Y hose with plastic (neoprene) connections that are somewhat leak prone. Its above the passenger valve cover area. It was this heater hose replacement that instigated the whole job. Its up to you if you want to proactively change this hose out now or not.

Only thing I'd do differently next time around is to attach a hose to the petcock and run the old coolant into a bucket. I used a very large catch pan but was still messy, especially on the frame/suspension. I also would NOT consider adding a garden hose connection, which is what most (ie: Prestone) cleaners recommend.

I'm not aware of any Expedition-specific videos, but there could be some out there.

Somewhere on this site somebody has the cooling capacity listed. The rear unit really doesn't add as much as you might think it would.
 

mjp2

Full Access Members
Joined
Apr 19, 2017
Posts
441
Reaction score
279
Location
Howell, NJ
I pulled the thermostat when I filled/flushed with distilled water to avoid having to wait around for the engine to get up to temp. Could save you some time. It's a good opportunity to replace the thermostat (and o-ring) anyway. It's cheap insurance.

Regarding that heater hose, that's also worth replacing. Dorman's part is an upgrade over the stock components, uses a metal T fitting in place of the leak-prone factory plastic stuff, and is cheaper than OEM.

Dorman part # 626-540

The engine on these trucks doesn't seem to need the attention that, say, the 6.0 diesel does, so a simple drain/flush/refill will suffice without the need for a chemical flush. No iron block, coolant sediment, or plugged up oil cooler to deal with.
 

bobmbx

Full Access Members
Joined
Jun 11, 2017
Posts
1,199
Reaction score
623
Location
Virginia
The engine on these trucks doesn't seem to need the attention that, say, the 6.0 diesel does, so a simple drain/flush/refill will suffice without the need for a chemical flush. No iron block, coolant sediment, or plugged up oil cooler to deal with.

Yep. If it just looks like old fluid and doesn't have a lot of grit/solids in it when you drain it, I wouldn't be concerned with flushing.
 

Trainmaster

Old School Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2017
Posts
3,406
Reaction score
1,927
Location
Rockaway Beach, NY
Did mine and my V-8 Explorer. Took the thermostats out when flushing - made things go much quicker. Checked the new thermostats before installing. Easy work.
 
OP
OP
R

rameredit

Member
Joined
May 1, 2019
Posts
14
Reaction score
6
Location
US
Thanks folks. That's exactly what I was looking for! I'll grab that "Y" replacement and a new thermostat/o-ring. Appreciate it.
 

schulzie

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2014
Posts
20
Reaction score
20
Location
Florida
Perfect timing for this thread. I'm looking at doing this, as I doubt it was done before I bought it @ 30k. It's a 2012 and is coming up on 78,000 miles. Also coming due is a transmission fluid change and rear diff oil change.
Might also look at a clean of the A/C evaporator. Never done that before, but it smells musty when you turn the air on for a minute or so.
 
OP
OP
R

rameredit

Member
Joined
May 1, 2019
Posts
14
Reaction score
6
Location
US
Worked on this a bit this weekend. I had the engine torn down for a timing job anyway. Thought I'd report back w/ what I found.

I pulled the radiator drain - only ~1.5 gallons drained out. That leaves quite a bit still in the system. When I pulled the lower radiator hose, it poured more than a gallon out, all over my garage floor.

I am going to fill it back up w/ distilled water and then pull the plug on the radiator, and the driver side block plug, to see if that gets more out.
 
Top